Here's my setup: 45# @28" recurve, 30" Beman Centershot 340 spine with a 175 grain point 3" feathers total 500 grains. I have a 29" draw so I figure my draw weight is around 47 to 49 lbs? My FOC is between 15 and 18% depending on which calculator I use. I'm getting consistent nock left which indicates a weak spine. If anything I thought that the 340's would be too stiff for my setup and I would have to increase point weight, not lighten it? I'm trying to keep the FOC high. What am I doing wrong? Why the nock left?

They "probably' are too stiff and you're seeing a false reading.

I've found bare shaft and arrow group tuning to work the easiest and quickest for me.

I don't worry about knock high, low, right or left; I'm only concerned about where bare shafts group in relationship to arrows.

Even if your shelf is cut past center, 340's are pretty stiff. A really stiff arrow can show a false weak as they hit the riser when passing the bow.

Bob

How do they shoo in a vertical line?

I tried a 145 grain point which seemed to make the nock left much worse. Would increasing point weight to maybe 200 help for a false weak?

Just got back from shooting again. Still showing some nock left, but not as much as the other day. today there was no wind and the other day it was blowing pretty steady, so now I'm thinking the wind was a major factor for the extreme nock left?

My problem is probably more operator error than anything else. I do get some target panic, and inconsistent release. I'm getting better and when I concentrate things do improve.

As far as vertical, I'm seeing no nock high or low.

Shoot the arrows at a vertical line on the target drawn from top to bottom. Aim them at the line, and shoot, If the land left of the line they are stiff, if they land right of the line they are weak. Nock position is perhaps the poorest and least reliable of all spine/tuning indicators that anybody can rely on.

The vertial line will rarely ever mislead you.

I will give that a try, fdp, thanks.

" Nock position is perhaps the poorest and least reliable of all spine/tuning indicators that anybody can rely on."

Everyone reading this thread should read that statement a hundred times. Once for them selves and 99 times for the guys that say, "I'm gonna bare shaft tune".

It's all about impacts. Shoot a bare shaft and a fletched shaft, if they impact together your tuned. Very few false postives.

Except in Dagaboy's case. That's soooooooo stiff that it looks weak (if you're right handed).

Here we go again - www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html click on 'download printable version'.

Bowmania

31" .500 spine with 175 grain point weight and that will get ya darn close. Why in the world would you shoot an arrow designed to be shot from 70# compounds? Shawn

I can't shoot that high of a spine in my 45# bows and I have a 29 1/2 draw. Ever one is different but I would try 500 and vary your point weight. Good luck <-----<<< Ken

.340 spine is what I shoot out of a 68@29 recurve.

MP

i disagree but have been wrong before.,I can't see how arrows can be tuned unless they are flying straight and in the bullseye.

I chose the 340's because of the 10.3 gpi. I'll just add some weight to the front and go from there.

Thanks for all the help.

I shoot 340s out out of my 55lb Stalker. I have a total of 250grains up front and they fly like darts. Try some heavier points and see how they go, or alternatively move into a 400 spine. Good luck with it.

Arrows can fly straight and not be in tune. AND I'm pretty sure that Dagabow's fly pretty straight, because it's so stiff. The problem is that the bow doesn't have enough force to make the arrow bend into paradox. The arrow will never fly where it's pointed.

Dagaboy, You're correct about adding weight. I shoot 50 at 29 inches with a .390 shaft and 360 up front. In your case, I'd should be prepared to put about 500 grains up front. Pretty sure you don't know how to make a point that heavy, so I'd go with a lighter spine. So you'll be shooting about an 800+ grain arrow if you get enough pt weight. Better be a pretty good shot to hit something at 20 yards. You'll probably have to aim over what you want to hit.

Bowmania

I agree with Bowmania, you will probably need to move into a weaker spine. When your bareshafts are grouping with your fletched you are good to go.

I bought a 340 bare shaft today and some 200 grain points. I'll keep going from there with heavier inserts or whatever is needed.

Lots of good tips, thanks guys.

If my arrows fly straight and hit in the bullseye with no feathers I am not touching them. My bareshafts grouped with my fletched but never in the bullseye. LOL. They do now however.

If my arrows are flying true with no movement with no feathers and hitting in the bullseye what would you do to them to get them to shoot better. I have to be missing something.

"I chose the 340's because of the 10.3 gpi. I'll just add some weight to the front and go from there."

Man, that is NUTS!!! That would be like buying eyeglasses that are 4X stronger than you need them to be because you liked the color of the frames.... and then wearing three pairs of contacts to bring the world back into focus....

You'd be WAAAY ahead of the game (JMO) to unload the 340s and start over with something that is somewhere in the ball-park. There are plenty of shafts with various GPI ratings, so do the math - figure out where you want to end up, figure out how many grains of point weight you'll need to get there, and then buy the shaft that will spine correctly given your draw weight, point weight, and shaft length.

I'm about as Cheap as they come, but... It can't possibly be worth the time and aggravation to start out with a completely wrong shaft and band-aid your way back....

@GF,

I think your eyeglasses analogy is a bit much. I don't see anything wrong with a little trial and error. Going heavy on the front end (250+) is ok with me. I wanted a high FOC, but wasn't really sure how much I could or even should go, so I started with what I thought might work. And, it has been worth the time and there hasn't been any aggravation to this process at all. I've learned more in the last few weeks from my mistakes and have gotten some good, positive feedback from some knowledgeable folks on here, which I'm very appreciative of.

You can swipe your wife's lipstick and rub it on the back few inches of the bareshaft and shoot it and then look at your riser. If you see lipstick on the bow then you are way stiff and showing a false weak. My guess is that you will.

Spine isn't this hard to figure out folks. Don't know what is up with people today cause it just ain't sinkin in.

If you have already registered, please

sign in now

For new registrations

Click Here