Hello Wallers ! as most of you know is still a bit green. once again I seek your wisdom, I have searched the web for info before making this thread. alas! nothing remotely close on how to do it. Can someone teach me how to do the formulas or etc.?

Here's example : one of my favorite bows is a High Country T/D 56" 56#@28" recurve. I draw 25" . I'm guessing it's about 45# at my stubby draw. I know I'll need to try arrows spines from 40-50#. I want my hunting arrows to be 26" from the valley of the nock to the front insert and around a total weight of 500-550 grains.

what type arrows do I need? wood or Carbon, why?. How do I add the extra weight? In doing so I feel it may change the spine. how does one compensate for this? I honestly don't know what I'm doing but I desire to get it right well before opening morning of bow season. Thank you for the time to read this.

https://www.3riversarchery.com/dynamic-spine-arrow-calculator-from-3rivers- archery.html

Why do you want your arrows that heavy? What is your aiming method?

A fletched with standard inserts and nock GoldTip Traditional will weigh 260-300 grains or so (without the point). You can easily hit 10 GPP (You'll likely end up with a 150-190 grn point) without messing with heavy inserts. That starts getting unpredictable real fast. I wouldn't recommend that for a first arrow tuning experience.

The other question is how much experience do you have shooting? How accurate are you say at 20 yards? I ask that because you need a certain level of shooting skill to properly tune. The farther you get outside of conventional norms, the more YOU need to know or you'll never get it set up right.

For hunting I would also go for a little longer arrow. 1 inch is too close of a shave for me with a razor sharp BH.

I'm going to disagree with Daven. Just my opinion of course and what I've done since 1965. I cut my arrows exactly one inch past my draw length...which I measure to the back of my bow. I've never even came close to hitting my knuckle, finger, etc. If you do, it shows you are not set in your form...draw length or whatever. Arrow length is a personal choice, nothing more. One is no better than the other as long as it's flying perfectly from the bow, and it's long enough to clear with a broadhead attached.

I agree with George on the arrow length.

1 Inch longer is plenty good enough. You might not want to be too quick on cutting shafts until you figure out your tuning. You may want that extra half inch or whatever.

I just lengthened my draw again...Now broad heads are right on my knuckles. Zwickeys have a bevel cut in them where your fingers would be. But I'm likely going to have to set up for a longer arrow for hunting this year.

Ok so if i buy a test kit of arrows from 3 rivers if i cut them to 26" it will increase the spine but a heavy point will weaken it?

Birch, ramin, or fir shafts, 50-55 lbs, then sand until they fly straight (bare shaft testing is my preference). When they're right, put them on a spine tester and find out what spine your bow likes. Remember and change in point weight will change the results.

Chance, that is how it works. That said, it's not an even ratio so you have to find where it will be the best static starting spine at the length you want...with the tip weight you want. It's really not hard to do with a little math and a lot of shooting. If and when I buy arrows, I buy the static spine that I know will serve the length I want with the tip weight I prefer.

Get a .600 spine cut it too 26"s and add at least 225 grains of point weight and more likely 275 grains of point weight. You are shooting around 47#s with that 25" draw and that .600 will be plenty stiff cut to 26"s. You will be very close to your desired arrow weight that way as well. Use a GT trad in .600 and you will be good to go!! Shawn

Ok soo .600 as in 600 thousandths of an inch? What does it mean to an arrow? I know its not the Diameter. Id be hurling a log!

The .600 is the bend. The arrow is placed on two points (I think 26" apart) and then a weight is attached to the middle. For the .600 or 600 spined arrows, the bend due to the weight is .600 of an inch. Carbon express spines their shafts differently (weakest 75, 90, 150, 250, 340 stiffest) as opposed to other companies (weakest 2000 to stiffest 340). Easton's arrow tuning and maintenance guide, which is available as a free download if you google it, is invaluable as is Viper's book: Shooting the Stickbow.

Now in reference to the arrow length and points etc., it depends. I do not have much time behind the bow, but when I first started out I did what I read over and over: Cut the shaft to 1.5" past your draw length. At the time, my DL was 28" and my arrows were 29.5" with 175 gr points. Over time and heavily working on my form, my DL changed to 29.5" and 125 gr points on a 32.75 BOP shaft. Now I still have a 29.5" DL, but had to reduce the point weight to 100 gr (which still bare shaft tunes as weak) and will see what happens with 85 and/or 75 gr points. Eventually, I will cut the shafts enough so that I may use the 125 gr broadheads I have or purchase a different weight broadhead that tunes well.

My point is that this was my experience, journey and what I have. I no longer cut shafts unless I am absolutely sure because I have a box of arrows that I cut and can't get the length back. That is me. Heed the advise of experienced archers like George and if possible get a coach.

Viper had posted (in essence) that a beginner should not really concern themselves with tuning, the intermediate archer should be able to bareshaft tune and the advanced archer should be able to fine tune. I probably botched that reiteration of viper's post so I suggest you search his handle to read exactly what was stated.

i,m currently making 23 hickory arrows for my 40 and 55 pound grizzlys. most are too light in spine for my 55 so stus calc says imma get about 139 fps on the lite bow. at ten to fifteen yards that is just fine.o

i,m currently making 23 hickory arrows for my 40 and 55 pound grizzlys. most are too light in spine for my 55 so stus calc says imma get about 139 fps on the lite bow. at ten to fifteen yards that is just fine.o

sorry computer is unavailable and this mini board sucks.

Chance -

Unless you really want a very close point on, your draw length is a handicap. You're just not getting full use of the limbs and adding an arrow as heavy as you suggested will kill any semblance of performance. (I have a few adult "trad" students with similar draw lengths, so I've been down that road.)

Agree with r. Stout a 26" arrow, and would consider an 1816 aluminum with 100 grain heads for a first pass (0.756" spine).

Viper out.

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