From: Timberking
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Date: 10-Jun-17 |
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.600 GT trad or the equivalent there of that is 29" that they don't need? Beat up, missing feathers whatever.... I'm trying to find an arrow that will shoot out of my Super Kodak 46#. There's nobody around me that I can find that shoots trad for me to try one of theirs and I don't have the money to buy to just see if it will work. I draw 28" and have tried 1916's and 2016's but can't seem to find one that works for me.
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From: Knifeguy
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Date: 10-Jun-17 |
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I shoot 2016's out of 45-50# bows with no problem. Cut to 28-1/2" with 125 grain points. Don't give up on them yet. Check your b/h and nock point for the arrow. It could also be too thick or too thin on the arrow plate. Start with this. Keep us informed. Lance.
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From: Bill Rickvalsky
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Date: 10-Jun-17 |
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If you can't get either 1916 or 2016 to shoot out of a 46# bow then I would suggest that something is wrong with the setup of your bow. One of those should be able to work. I can shoot either one out of a 44# longbow. I know you are shooting a recurve but it should be able to shoot one of those arrows.
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From: raghorn
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Date: 10-Jun-17 |
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Are the 1916 and 2016 cut to your draw length and have 125 gr points? If they are full length they won't shoot correctly. Just a guess.
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From: greyghost
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Date: 10-Jun-17 |
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I shoot 55/75 gold tip trads out of mine with 125 grain point 31"
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From: Timberking
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Date: 10-Jun-17 |
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I've tried them from 28" to 30" and. All shot like crap. I'm not sure what else I can do.....
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From: lamb
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Date: 10-Jun-17 |
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i might have one. i'll measure it
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 10-Jun-17 |
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greyghost, they would be a bad pick for a 46# Super Kodiak, with a 29" arrow. Some of you guys are either shooting bows cut past center with those skinny carbons, and using FF string to boot to get a 55/75 (400) arrow to fly well. If they are flying well.
There is no reason for a 1916 to not fly well off that bow. First of all, what string are you using?....what type of arrow rest/shelf? If you are drawing 28" you're getting 46# at your draw. The Super K is cut at center, so you need an arrow with appropriate spine. You don't tell us what tip weight you are using, and you didn't say how long the 1916 or 2016 are.
I've shot the Super K. with FF strings and 2016 arrows at 28.5" and 145 heads at 45#. My draw is 27" so I was pulling 42#. With Dacron B-50 I get excellent flight with 1916...equivalent to a .623'ish deflection...same arrow length same tip weight.
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From: GF
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Date: 10-Jun-17 |
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I guess I would like to back up and find out what it is about the 2016 and 1916 that the OP thinks those are "not working" for him?
My draw length is in the 26.5" to 27" range, and I shoot a 28.5" 2016 perfectly (bare shaft) out of a #55 Howatt Hunter.... So I can see how a 2016 might be a bit on the stiff side, but a 1916 should do it… Even if you have to build out your side plate a little bit. Pretty sure that a 1916 is what my RER is looking for… it's #55@28" also, but not as center-shot as the Hunter.
But if you are not bare-shafting, I don't have any idea how you would know if you had the right shaft or not… God knows I shot arrows - for YEARS - that were a lot stiffer than they should have been, and never had a clue until I took 2bears' advice and drew a line down the middle of my target.
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From: longbowguy
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Date: 10-Jun-17 |
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All of those may be a bit stiff for that draw weight with 125 grain points. I would try a couple of higher point weights on them at the longer 30" length.
Or if you can borrow one locally you could try a carbon arrow of around 750 spine. - lbg
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From: Timberking
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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Getting bad flight, fishtailing. My shelf material is heavy duty Velcro. 125 grain points. String is Dacron B50. I've tried both sizes from 28" to 30" and never get good results.
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From: Timberking
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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I stand can corrected... I just st got her me from work and checked again. 2016's are 29" and it was a 2018 at 28".....
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From: Roadrunner
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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I think you have something else wrong other than the spine of the arrow if you can't get 1916s or 2016s to work. There are a lot of variables. Can you locate someone on here that lives near you that can critique your setup and your form?
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From: DanaC
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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Tab or glove? Soft leather or cordovan? Split or 3 under?
Also brace height and nock point?
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From: Roadrunner
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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If you don't have anyone close, and will be relying on this bunch of buzzards, I suggest that you start this way. 1. Determine your dynamic draw length. Take an arrow of known length and put visible marks on it at 1/2" intervals, starting at the point end. Get someone with a smart phone to video you (or better use your phone or camera). Take a few warm up draws and get them to stand on you draw arm side and focus on the target side of the bow where the arrow rides. Have them video a number of shots as you draw to your subconscious anchor (don't think about it). Take the video and view it enough times to determine what your actual draw is. You will likely find that it is shorter (maybe a lot) than what you measured statically. 2. Take what you know and calculate your actual draw weight with that bow...then you can better figure what spine arrow you need. I when through years of frustration (and a lot of arrows) trying to get good arrow flight because I thought I was drawing more than I really was.
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From: Skeets
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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2018 is too stiff. Try 145 grn point and 175 grn point on your 2016. 1916 would be better if you have that shaft.
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From: razorhead
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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George that was good advice, you know your stuff
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From: Timberking
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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I don't have any 1916's. I thought that was what I was shooting but turns out it's 2016 and 2018. I'll try a 145 point on the 2016 in a few hours.
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From: DarrinG
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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George Stout's advice x2.
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From: Bowmania
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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Timber, where are you in MN. I get out to the western side of MN regularly. I may have a .600 surely a .500.
I would say your problem is not knowing how to tune? Am I correct? Look over this before you answer. www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html click on 'download printable version'. At the end is some info on broadhead tuning that is particularly use full. BUT you have to make the click.
Bowmania
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From: gmr12508
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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I might have one. I shoot 600's GT Trads, full length. I have a few broken ones that can be cut down to 29", Well I think I do. I will check when i get home.
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From: John L. Meyers
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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TimberKing. Any chance you are close to Rochester? I could give you one.
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From: BATMAN
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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TIMBER? Hope that You can get some arrows that will work. Gotta be hair pulling with bad arrow flight? Do You have OTHER bows that shoot well??
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From: Scooby-doo
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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I did not read through the posts. Send me your addy and I will send ya one. 29" .600 spine with 175 up front should be about perfect. It will be ready to shoot! Shawn
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From: Timberking
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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No, not anywhere near Rochester. I'm wayyyyyyyyyyy up here on the Range. Scooby, thanks but ive got the one on the way. I've got a 50# Grizzly and a couple of English Longbows. The reason why I'm out of arrows is I've spent the last couple of years trying to move my family out here to Minnesota. I used to live in Michigan and had a decent longbow but shot with Cedars. I bought this SK years ago cuz I like the old Bears (Michigan and all ya know) I sold the Longbow and arrows before the move out of state and haven't hunted or really shot much for the last few years. Family was in Mich and I was here living with friends and working a new job paying bills back home till I bought us a house here. My wife and daughter finally were able to move out here last June and now I'm trying to get back into trad archery and be able to hunt this Fall.
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From: John L. Meyers
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Date: 11-Jun-17 |
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Glad things are working out and welcome to Minnesota. It sure is beautiful up there. I couldn't imagine not being with my family. Hope all goes well.
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