Hey all,

I am playing around with my Morrison 17" ILF riser and SHORT KAP limbs. I need a couple opinions if you don't mind.

I am trying to see if I can get it as quiet as I see other 17" ILF aluminum rigs and other Morrison setups.

I just took off the elevated flipper rest. I removed the ancient sight bar with the single brass pin that I had been using as a crutch to get used to it more. I have been going thru it looking at everything that could possibly make noise or rattle.

What I am down to now is building it back up. I am going to be using the "fluffy" Velcro stuff as a rest. It already has a slight pyramid shelf that's built up for shooting off the shelf. I'm just putting some cushion on it.

What I am wondering is whether I should put a side "plate" on it or not. My options are that I can leave it off entirely, put another piece of fluffy velcro on it or I could get one of those pads that you put under the feet of your table to sit on the floor. They are about 1/4" thick I guess and have a self adhesive backing.

I am inclined to just put a piece of the fluffy velcro on it and go with that. I don't have a plunger or anything else to cushion it. If I need one, I'll get it, but I am going for SIMPLE but EFFECTIVE here.

With the elevated rest it was loud as can be. I hated it. Now I am trying to figure things out here.

Advice needed please.

Thanks for your time. Larry

Velcro or a furniture pad for the sideplate. Depends on your tuning as to which you will need. A thin strip of material vs 1/4" material is a huge difference. And normally noise is the result of a poor tune. For example- wrong brace height, nocking point, arrow spine etc. Etc.. just speaking of my own trials and tribulations.

I put nickel and a penny on mine covered with Velcro. Just right for me. I call her 6 cent.

Larry,

Do you understand the whole concept of centershot and building out the strike plate if your arrows are too weak and reducing it if your arrows are stiff?

If thick furniture pads are the right thickness, they work very well. Though they are questionable for competition if you care about that. Something I did was to make a small tapered wood piece out of a paint stir stick (popsicle sticks work well too). Then you can put a layer of velcro on top. That works great.

Multiple layers of velcro work well too (not legal). But you can then duplicate the thickness with poor and velcro after you figure it out. Or if you aren't competing, just use that.

Some people have put a set screw into the plunger hole and padded it so you have an adjustable strike plate. But your shelf has to be high enough to reach it. Others have made an adjustable strike plate that screws into the plunger hole.

I have never much cared about whether a bow is cut to center or not. I was just thinking on other pics I've seen of how others have set their 17" recurves up for hunting and just backyard shooting. Many of them would have a furniture pad on the side.

I'm just looking to get it set up where it's quiet and it shoots good. I'm not interested in any formal target stuff.

I hate all the intricate changing of settings and stuff but I know it has to be done. This all started because my riser was shooting too loud.

Tomorrow I'll go out and try to get the best set up I can with the arrows I have.

My arrows are 500 spine. My bow is about 42-48 pounds depending how much the limb bolts are turned down. My draw length is close to 28, give or take a shade either way. Arrows are about 30 inches in length with 125 grain points.

I use velcro for the shelf and side plate. I shoot 45 lb bows, bcyx string, 29 1 /4 inch 600 Gold Tip with total of 190 grain up front. You may winnd up adding weight to the 500s. On my bows, I can shoot a 30 inch 500 but I have to add about 225 up front.

Just something to consider while you setting your bow back up.

It's definitely cut past center and it definitely matters. I would just start with a furniture pad on it and nock an arrow. Hold the bow out in front of you and look down the center of the string lined up to the center of the limbs. You really want the arrow point to be to the left of the string. Shooting centershot with fingers is not a good plan.

So just layer up Velcro until it shoots well. You can layer it on top of the furniture pad

One more thing....those furniture pads are very dense. But you can take the sharp point of a wood screw and pick out the surface to fluff it up. Makes a nice cushion. Again.....not legal under some Trad rules.

Larry,it is not likely your rest was causing the noise. With out knowing what your arrows are doing no one can tell you how much thickness the strike plate needs. You need to start over with tuning. First the brace height. Check the tiller. Then start building out the strike plate gradually,until your arrows are flying like they should and hitting center. Maybe just a piece a tape then a match stick under it,then the furniture pad or what ever it is needing. As some one sugested your arrow should be angled a little bit left,for a finger release. That is a good starting place. Are your limb connections secure. They might need a thin piece of felt or something. I am not familiar with that rig.You will have to reset your nocking point also. Wow there are so many things but usually when you get tuned noise will be at a minimum also. Good Luck. >>>------> Ken

Hi I use felt pad and nylon trimmer line size to bring the side plate out so the arrow is in centre line. Also put a small bit of nylon trimmer line on the shelf as well. I think it help if you toque the bow. You can also use Velcro, if too thin use double sided tape to build out. if bow is not cut much I use fishing line for side plate

What are you trying to accomplish Larry? As was mentioned, tuning and release are what causes noise, nothing else.

If you put a big ol' thick furniture pad on your sight window, you are going to change the tune of your bow. !/8" of furniture pad is going to cahnge the spine of your arrows 10lbs. or more.

You HAVE to worry about centershot on a bow, because that's what determines your spine need.

I would put a plunger on it and build up the shelf so the button centers your arrow shaft, then a very thin piece if mole skin, velcro whatever over the button. It is nice that way as you can adjust center shot or the stiffness of the plunger. I shot my Morrison and Belcher ILF risers like that. It was perfect. Shawn

If it started out noisy it was set up wrong Vs the arrows you were shooting. Relatively, of course...some bows are just born noisy.

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