Hey all.

Quick question for ya.

I have a Bear Montana, nearly new, that a fellow member hooked me up with last year. He really done me RIGHT on this bow. Anyway. I've had a couple fletch get kinda rubbing the leather rest that's on it from the factory and I've had to superglue it to keep it in place cause it is separating. It ain't gonna be long till I have to replace the side plate, rest and since those are glued in to the Grip, that'll have to be done too.

I've never had a stitched leather grip on any of my bows and I'd like to have it on this bow. I am wondering how hard it is to put one on myself. When I say stitched I am talking about a leather wrap with the stitching in the front.

Can you all give me some pointers or advice on how hard this us fit someone that has never done it?

If it's too irritating, I'd prolly be better off if I found someone that can do it up nice for me and won't charge an arm and a leg. You all know anyone like that just in case?

Thanks for your help and time.

Larry

Could you cut the shelf pad and strike plate free from the grip? They are very simple to replace. The grip is a little more trouble but can definitely be done. There are a lot of instructions out there. I would gladly do it for you but you are looking at $20 each way for shipping. That makes it not worth while. As a last resort they do shoot fine with out a leather grip but do need the rug and strike plate to protect the bow.>>--> Ken

" I've had to superglue it to keep it in place" Hey Larry, I would not suggest superglue, use Barge cement if possible for leather. SG will kill the finish on your bow should you move the rest and be a bugger to remove. I'm no expert at leather handles but I just put this one on a longbow that didn't come with one. I had an an old bikers wallet I cut up. You need fairly thin leather that's soft and pliable, leather will typically stretch one way more than the other depending on grain. You'll need some leather, a leather punch (or awl) 2 curved furniture fabric needles, barge cement and faux sinew, I believe all can be picked up at Hobby Lobby for cheap (barge and awl at HomeDepot). 3 Rivers has a good video on how to do it. It may take a couple of attempts but the completed project is satisfying.

Use contact cement, not super glue.

Chas that is a good looking job on the grip. I am a leather worker and if I may make a suggestion. Next time before you put the grip on,if you will wet the edges where you made the cuts,Then rub them vigorously with something very smooth and round,plastic,wood,or metal it will slick the edges and give it that molded finished look. It is called burnishing the edges. Also a dab of dye,if you want it black. Tandy's has it but shoe dye is just as good. Don't do it on the bow. You will scratch it up.>>----> Ken

I have done my Bear Montana grip. Wasn't hard but I had the leather from another project. I used thin tooling leather. I stripped off the old grip. Wrapped the grip in plastic wrap. Soaked the leather in water and stretched it around grip. Then used spring clips to hold it tight until it dried. Then removed wrap, cut leather to size and punched holes. I applied some Barge cement, let it set then sewed it up. The picture is a metal riser I did the same way. You can see how the wet leather shaped to the grip.

Great suggestions 2 bears, once I installed it I noticed the edges looked somewhat unfinished. Great advise, thanks!

fold top and bottom edge of leather over and glue them with barge cement, makes a nicer edge, put fold on inside, cut holes with punch sew with heavy fishing catgut line and curved mattress needle

https://youtu.be/EOjUZ00Dpkg

Here's a cool,looking grip stitch by my brother.

If I remember correctly, 3 Rivers has a video on fitting a leather grip.

Take masking tape and wrap around were you want the grip to be with the sticky part of tape facing away from bow and then when you have it all wrapped go over it with the the sticky side against the tape and then carefully cut it off the bow and there is your pattern to trace around on the leather.

Artificial sinew is a good bet...yellowish/tan...looks like the real thing and is very strong.

https://www.tandyleather.com/en/search/?sSearch=sinew

The 3 rivers video is outstanding. It is exactly how my wife does ours. Use barge cement for sure.

Hey all,

Thanks for the help.

Good looking stuff for sure. I'll check out the videos you all mentioned. I've got a bit of time though. It's not at the critical stage yet.

Just to clear up the Super Glue thing....On the shelf there is a small piece of leather that is the rest, maybe 3/4" wide or 1/2". After shooting the other day I looked down and the leather itself was coming apart. It wasn't coming up off of the shelf of the bow. That part of the leather was still intact. None of the leather on the shelf was coming away from the bow. The leather was just coming apart, in the middle. Cheap leather I guess. So to get it to stay in place, I put a dab of Super Glue and held it till it dried. No Super Glue came in contact with the actual wood of the bow.

I can post a pic and show you if I am not being clear on my explanation.....which has been known to happen quite frequently.

Have a great weekend guys and gals.

Larry

You did the right thing Larry, SG is fine to glue the separated leather side plate or rest.

You can also skive the top and bottom edges to taper them, then you can fold them over and glue. This really dresses these parts for a finished look.

Got mine ready to glue and snitch up tomorrow. 3 river video helped a lot.Not sure how it will come out but so far kinda easy. Bought a leather punch and leather from MICHEAL'S. Punch was under $10.00 bucks.will post pic tomorrow.

I like the artificial sinew a little longer, but a needle on both ends and come down the grip both sides at the same time, the leather wont get twisted or lopsided if you do it that way.

"...a needle on both ends and come down the grip both sides at the same time, the leather wont get twisted or lopsided if you do it that way."

-What Hal said x2! These are the only 2 stitch jobs I've done so far. Quality is nothing to write home about, but the double needle both sides at once really makes it easy- however, I used deerskin which is so stretchy as to be hard to manage- need to keep stretching in both directions at once to maintain a tight grip. Barge cement at top & bottom a necessity.

Another view of the stitched deerskin grip...

Okay I gave it a shot and for my first try I think it turned out okay

Very good first shot.

By golly that looks great guys. I don't care if it is your 1st time. It looks like you know what you're doing. Makes me want to send my bow to you all and get it done!!

This is one of the many reasons this place is so special. No matter what the problem, someone(s) here will jump in and help. I've seen it MANY MANY times over the years that I have been here. Definitely one of the best sites I've ever been a part of.

The members here are just awesome.

Thanks guys, I'm gonna try and go to Tandy leather tomorrow or the next day and see what they have.

One thing that worries me about doing this project is the holes you have to punch in the leather to stitch it.

I have always thought that when you put the holes in each side of the leather to stitch, you will have to be very careful to keep the holes from ripping open. That's what I've thought would be the biggest problem.

Do you have to baby the stitching or are those holes pretty sturdy and they will pretty much hold?

Also what thickness of leather is best? I don't know a thing about how they measure leather cause it comes in ounces. I know 8 ounce leather is pretty thick. Is there a place that sells just enough and the right size to do this project? 3 Rivers maybe?

Just curious.

Thanks for the pics guys. GREAT JOB! I'd be totally happy if mine turned out that good!

Have a great week guys. Larry

looks great!

How well the Holes will hold up is mostly dependent on the leather being used. Veg tanned for example holds up very well. Soft stretchy leather like deer skin or any soft suede leather can be more touchy and requires more care. Because it's stretchy, the cut should be a little undersized but too small will have you over pulling your punched holes. Contact cement is your friend.

Longcruis got it. I have ripped out deerskin holes, and even if you don't they can get a little too stretched out to looking ugly as you can see in the bottom grip of my two above. I may try again on that one- but I have found out that deerskin feels fine in the grip.

The stitches give my hand no position reference, I have the bow hand partially open to avoid torquing the grip- but different strokes, etc.

I pretty much followed the 3r's video and it worked out.I had no problems other than not knowing what the end results would be. Took about ten minutes to spread the Barge glue & line it up and put it onto the bow handle. I did not use hardly and force when I threaded the punched holes and things just came together. The one thing I did in addition to the video was to put a piece of tape over the holes when I applied the glue.

I pretty much followed the 3r's video and it worked out.I had no problems other than not knowing what the end results would be. Took about ten minutes to spread the Barge glue & line it up and put it onto the bow handle. I did not use hardly and force when I threaded the punched holes and things just came together. The one thing I did in addition to the video was to put a piece of tape over the holes when I applied the glue.

The word cake comes to mind. If I can do it...

When I use veg tan, I don't use glue. Just size it, punch it, wet it and put it on. I stitch it loose and slide it over the bow then tighten like putting on a shoe.

BUT, most of mine are ASLs with flat grips or minor locators. Not sure how well this would work with a more convoluted grip. I should work if the material is cut to the right shape and size.

Making a pattern as has already been described above by hunterbob would be one way to fit it.

I think that I will start cruising thrift store for old or donated ladies purses. Maybe find one made out of Gator hide or some thing similar LOL.

I put them on all my walking sticks I make.

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