I am considering picking up a 41# Wing Archery (Head Ski era) recurve, 62" amo.

I've read several positive reports about the Falcon, but nothing about how it draws to 30".

Would love to read your reports on your experiences with the Wing Falcon, especially you long drawers.

I'm looking for a stable mate for my 62", 40# 1967 Bear Tigercat.

For those who have shot both the Falcon and Tigercat (62" versions) how would you compare those two bows shooting characteristics?

You can't really compare the shooting characteristics. That's too subjective, as that's really all there is, personal opinion.

The bows are quite similar as it pertins to working limb length, etc..

As for will the bow draw to 30". Sure it will. The string angle could get tight if you have big hands, I don't, so it isn't an issue.

I bought it.

Draws smoothly to 30". No stacking. Working on finding a good arrow/point weight combo. Shooting 4" left at 22 yards. Can't use any thinner strike plate. Full length 2016 xx75 aluminum shafts with 175 grain points still shoots strong (RH bow). Working with xx75 aluminum shafts now.

First time shooting a Wing Falcon (62", 40#). Beautiful bubinga riser. Has some mass to it for nice stability. Nice bow. Head Ski mfg. I'm liking it.

Fletch

I had a Wing Falcon (original Wing, pre-AMF/Head Ski) a few years ago (I think I traded it to HUMPY. It was 62" AMO and 42#-43#. I draw to 30" also, but quite frankly, I kinda get the impression that the reason you may be hitting to the left might be due to shooting shafts that might be a little too stiff for that bow.

Unless I remember incorrectly, I was shooting 1916s, 30.5" with 100 gr. points. Flew like darts and even though I don't remember bareshafting them, they weren't hitting to the left. Maybe a lighter shaft? I think I shot both 1916s and 2014s out of them with good results. Just a suggestion. Keep us posted, God and Christ Bless

A 1916 should work fine at 31" and 145 up front. I'm assuming a Dacron string since that bow has no overlays.

Also, even with Dacron, you don't need more than 10 strands of B- 50 and that may help with those 2016.

George D,

Yup. No overlays. Dacron string.

I'll shoot some 1916s this weekend with different point weights to see how that goes. They should be weaker of course, hopefully will move the impact to the right a bit.

Would it be a sin to sand down the riser wall and go from "cut to center"to "center cut for arrow"? ( I.e. 1/8" or so cut past center)

No sin, but...why?

That is one way to expand the ability to use a little stiffer spine. It's not like it's a highly collectible model. They are fine shooters though and that is what counts.

Fletch, what's your brace height? Wings if I remember carried a pretty high bh. Perhaps twist it up a bit. Shick

BH about 8". Will try twisting it up a bit.

Regarding going to center cut or cut past center, I find 2016 shafts,being heavier shoot lower. I like to gap off the riser - it's off the top of my strike plate.

I like to set my zero elevation to 20-22 yards at the top of my strike plate. Each yard over/under my "zero distance" is about an inch higher or lower. With a 2016, arrow impact at 15 yards is 5-7 inches higher than my "zero elevation" (22 yard "zero" vs 15 yards is 7 yards closer yielding about 7 inches sight correction). I set the top of my strike plate at the bottom of the target. For a longer shot, 25-27 yards, this have about a 5 inch sight correction higher. I hold the top of the strike plate on the top of the deer- sized target. For 3d shooting, this set up takes care of a pretty simple sighting system, putting the arrow in the 10 ring area (by theory).

1916s shoot flatter, but the strike plate is illegal for IBO ( can only be 1" above arrow).

It's just a system that works for me. As George posted, center cut or past center ( whatever it winds up) allows use of heavier 2017s, and "legal" strike plate.

Plus, I like to tinker (and file/sand. :-)

Update

1916 (full length) xx75 aluminum shafts with 145/150 grain points worked great with my 40# Falcon. George D Stout was on the mark. Thanks.

They also shot well on my 1967 62" 40# Beat Tigercat.

Drawing both to near 30", no stacking.

Life is good.

That is a really pretty bow. I had a 62" Falcon (Head Ski Co) bow several years ago. Wish I had never sold it. I do still have a beautiful Wing Gull 64"--45#@28 (Head Ski Co). I plan to keep the Gull FOREVER. I really enjoy older bows as well. I have a soft spot for the old Head Ski Co Wings and Shakespeare bows. Bob Lee is only about 1-1/2 hours from me.....I have one of his TD modern recurves too. Life is good. Enjoy that Falcon. Those things are sweet shooters. Take care and God bless!

I have a 43# Falcon, draws nice at 29.5", brace height it likes is about 8.25"

Good deal. Those are wonderful bows and still very affordable.

Beautiful bow in Kent's photo. Looks just like a Gull. About to learn how 1000 deflection will work on 30# for my gun-barreling girlfriend. Maybe we'll switch to aluminum when she stops busting arrows :-)

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