Keep it quick this morning:

#1 - How do you cut aluminum to length if you don't have a "proper" arrow saw?

#2 - What is the convention for measuring length of a wooden arrow?

THX!

Matt'

#1) An inexpensive tube cutter will work for the aluminums. I got mine at Harbor Frieght.

#2) I taper and install my nock and then measure 1" longer than the BOH from the nock. This allows for the tapers for the points. Some folks leave an 1-1/2".

#3) I hope that I helped instead of hindered! Lance.

Wood arrows are spined at 26" span to be shot (average) at 28". You add 5# spine for each inch longer, and subtract 5# spine for every inch shorter than 28. Of course the vagaries of dynamics can intervene at any time depending on equipment.

I have used a hardward store tubing cutter on aluminum arrows now for fifty years or so. I'm on my third one now. 8^)

GF, wooden arrows are measured from the throat of the nock to the back of the point or point taper.

I can't help with aluminum since I've never made an aluminum arrow.

Jawge

I have cut a few aluminum arrows with a hacksaw. I use an old wooden mitre box and a fine tooth blade. Then sandpaper the burr off of the inside of the arrow.

MP

My fingers get ahead of my spelling sometimes. "hardware" store.

Tube cutter works great. Just don't over tighten and pinch the shaft.

Same as mentioned above and would add that the same tubing cutter will do carbons also just insert a tite fitting rollpin punch inside before cutting then spin shaft on sandpaper to smooth the cut

Thank you, gentlemen!

I did have a tubing cutter, but it was in the garage when the hurricane hit... not many survivors. As a field expedient, though, I can recommend the can-opener on a Swiss Army knife; I just press it in tight and hold it as square as I can keep it while I spin the arrow through a few rotations... works in a pinch, but no way to turn out target grade arrows!

And thanks for the advice on woodies... now that I have some arrows that are flying right, I want to play around a bit with Stu's calculator and to do that, you have to agree on some definitions...

Also, I've seen good prices on bulk "shorts", and I'd sure hate to end up with 100 raw shafts that I can't use....

Get yourself a little pipe cutter and your golden a tiny one at store just about any one carries. That's what I use.

Raw shafts make great garden stakes.

DDave

I use and like the little Harb. Frt. cut off saw. Don't crowd the cut and it does fine. I use a reloading chamfering tool to knock off any burrs or sharp edges, inside and out.

"Raw shafts make great garden stakes."

I'm sure they're lovely, but NOT terribly cost-effective!

Good to know that the tube-cutter need not be anything fancy... I guess you go with multipurpose, rather than copper-only....

And am assuming that it's best to get one of the small ones, like 5/8" max....

Yes, the small ones. They don't need to open over 3/8 or so... 1/2" max. They are just a small tubing cutter. I like the electric saw though.

I have a small tubing cutter in my kit for bare shafting aluminums. I also have a rat rail file in case the cutter creases the shaft and I can't get the insert in. Usually I just score the shaft a few times and just break off excess. But when your getting down to the last inch or so I need a few more turns to cut shaft through. I took advantage of the deal Surewood offered on "shorts". Nothing wrong with them, made great arrows and the price was right.

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