Need some help/ideas with using MiniWax water based polycrillic. I like to try new stuff, so I dipped my cedars in the water based poly yesterday. This AM I litely sanded using 220 grit paper like can says. But even after sanding the shafts are sticky. My question is will this sticky go away as the finish cures more?

It is about 10% humidity and about 98degrees for a high. Maybe wrong time of year for water based? I know some of you use this finish so if you could share your experiences please good and bad. I have this vision of arrows stuck in target because finish acting like glue. Been there, done that.

Thank you, TomM

You got it too thick is my guess.

I put it on in thin coats with a soft rag. Let it sry overnight between coats and have never had that problem.

And that's on the edge of the Texas Hill Country so the humidity is higher, and the temperature similar.

I bet it will harden up if you let it set a day or so,

To thick was my first idea. Always thinned when I dipped Fletch Laq clear. I was going to add a little water BUT no sure of results. I usually use this finish as a protective coat over my cap dipping/cresting only. For that app I use a foam brush and lite coats. My bride heard me "talking " to the shafts and reminded me of an old nightmare with this finish I had 3 years ago finishing a table for her. She committed about never learning a lesson!

Thomas

I sand the shafts first, dip tube and hang til completely dry and I'm good to go. I don't thin the poly either.

Deno

My wife "helps" keep me grounded at times too. It's only taken me 30 years to (mostly) stop denying that it is help.

Any who...

I've used water based poly on arrow shafts here in the land of humidity (east central FL), but usually brush it on with one of those sponge-on-a-stick things. I personally prefer spar urethane, but my memory says that I was able to sand either one after 24 hours. I did my last batch inside, so they were able to dry in the conditioned environment, but I have done several dozen in the garage.

I've never thinned the poly or spar prior to application, but that's just me (it's another step which = work)

I have tried it but do not like the outcome. All wood has natural oils in it, some more than others. Water and oil don't mix well. IMO the results are uneven penetration. I now use lacquer or shellac products for base coats. I like the results better.

I wipe on two coats, when dry go over lightly with fine steel wool, wipe clean with a damp cloth and then wipe on two more coats.

Results have always been good. Mine is usually going on over acrylic hobby paint finish and cresting. If stained it is with water based stain.

I just "brushed" on another light coat. Temp on patio is right at 100 degrees, almost instant dry. I appreciate the comments and help. The oil and water makes sense. Maybe if I used this finish on Doug Fir I would have had better results? Anyway this was a "what the heck" experiment. I am going to let these bake until late afternoon. Maybe fletch them up tomorrow? Not in a big hurry.

I've used it for years. I brush it on. Clean up is easy and it is durable enough for my needs. Don't know about dipping but I agree with fdp. Jawge

I am not a professional arrow maker but i use 100 percent lacquer and dip it . i can do three coats in less then one hour and they are dried nice enough to steel wool or light sand between then start my fletching . my only question why ploy .i have used lacquer for close to 38 years why change now .

I use water base stain and then water base poly on all my wood arrows. It holds up well and is easy to apply. I think dipping them put too much on at one time. I can easily put another coat on after a couple hours, maybe sooner. I just wipe it on with a small rag and not to much at once. You could easily get four coats on in one day. Once in a while I'll gather my practice arrows and put another coat on to cover the target wear.

NO TO WATER BASED FINISH!!! DEFT. DEFTHANE POLYURETHANE IS BETTER THAN WATER BASED FINISH.

Good Lord!!!! Yes it works fine,applied with a brush,in light coats.By the time im done with the last of the dozen,i start on the next coat,with the first one.Put 4 or 5 on and call it good.I dont make works of art with my arrows,they are ammo,for petes sake.Chances are they are either gonna be lost or broken,long before,the effectiveness of my finish is void.

cut it 50/50 with water and dip let excess run off light steel wool between coats

Nice finish but not as durable as others

Thanks agian everyone. I believe I will use the poly to cover my crest and cap dip. I have up until this set used pure Tung oil from "The Milk Paint Co." Been using it for a few years trying to replace lost moisture in Doug Fir shafts. I like the results but the process is a PITA and not for anyone in a hurry. Hopefully this thread has helped others as it has helped me, thanks for everyone's comments.

Agree with sir misacts. I cut my ploy somewhat thicker than his, but next time I'll usa his ratio, lightly sand and coat another time or two.

The bohning finish is a lacquer that is why it stinks so bad . i just prefer automotive because it was easy to obtain but as of the new EPA rules i am not sure . i did pick up a quart at ollies a surplus department store .

50/50 water/poly mix. Dip and hang to dry. Light sand with 240 sandpaper between coats. 4 coats total. Oil stain and testors paint.

Well when it comes to arrows i am kinda the made to go not show thinking as long as they fly good that is the main concern . i have a crestor i built but i very seldom use it . kinda plain jane describes my arrows . i like the fancy ones but i loose to many and break to many .

I learned from my wood working classes the steel wool to use is the Liberon brand I get at Rockler. I only get 0000. I also believe Bohning Fletch Laq products give me the best finish but I like to try other products and ideas as well. Auto motive finishes have been waterbased in CA. for some years now. I was bootlegging from AZ. for some friends that restore Vintage cars. But at today's prices even Fletch Laq is a bargain.

Sounds like your stain wasn't totally dry or to heavy of a poly coat or both.

I use the minwax polycrylic and love it. I have build over 20 doz sets of arrows and never had a problem....well except when i break'm lol!!!

I use it over oil and water based stains with no issues. You have to make sure all stain is completely dry. When i apply the poly i use a foam brush and cut a half circle so it wraps around the arrow about half way. I use a total of 4 brush strokes on an arrow. I use grain to help in this and i always taper my pointend so i can hold the arrow. Starting at pointend at the grain runout brush poly down to knockend, twist arrow 180 and repeat. Then i do the same but oppisite of the grain runout. By doing this the shaft is covered and helps even out for a thin coat. After poly is dry give a light sanding and repeat. I also alternate when i apply the next coat so last 2 strokes will be on the grain runout. I do 5 to 6 coats.

Hope this may help and good luck!

I used the water based poly, when I got out in the rain for a couple of days my shafts turned whiteish it wasn't water proof. I now use Zar poly it leaves a glass like finish and is used a marine finish so very tough and water proof . Stay away from any tung oil it just dries out, its a very poor arrow finish compared to others .

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