From: Rookie :^)
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Date: 15-Apr-17 |
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How do you know when you've found the sweet spot for the brace height and nock point on a recurve? I would assume little hand shock, virtually no string slap and good arrow flight but I'm pretty new at this.
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From: arrowchucker
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Date: 15-Apr-17 |
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Sound is where I start, then group size. When it's right it's like kissing a pretty girl. Just right
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 15-Apr-17 |
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Sound and feel for the brace height. Up and down flight for the nocking point.>>>-----> Ken
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From: Knifeguy
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Date: 16-Apr-17 |
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I start with my brace height. Up and down until the bow is as quiet as you can get it without silencers. It will be pretty close to where the string is just starting to leave the string grooves in the limbs (if there are any.) As little as 2 twists can make a lot of difference so go slow and listen carefully. Your ear will tell you a lot. If you're getting wrist slap and your form is good that's a good indication that the brace is too low. Once I have the bow as quiet as I can get it without silencers, that's when I'll make some wool puffs and tie them into the string about 10-12" from where the string last touches the limb. I then set my string nock at 5/8". This works for me. Hope this helps. Lance.
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From: Pdiddly
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Date: 16-Apr-17 |
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Knifeguy echoes my thoughts...listen to the bow and watch the arrow. A few twists can make a big difference. Start low and work up. Lance...assuming your arrow is under the nock is the bottom of your nock 5/8 above centre on the square?
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From: Babbling Bob
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Date: 16-Apr-17 |
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With my old rosewoods, never did like the looks of a skinny strung bow. It's a guess to me and I start with high brace heights and work down to shorter lengths from there.
I still use stretchy four color dacron strings with red and yellow as accent colors to light and dark colors. For this reason, I check the brace when I first string my bows and then a half hour later for sretch. For new strings, I leave the bow strung for days at a time to get'um stretched out.
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From: kenn1320
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Date: 16-Apr-17 |
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I have never heard a difference, but ive only been at it for about 6yrs. Must be a learned skill or i dont have an ear for it. I tune bh by the arrows in the target. I can notice the groups shrink. Sometimes the feathers will be a tight group, but when I walk up the shafts aren't parallel and splayed. This indicates the arrows aren't flying as clean as they appear and bh changes fix it.
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From: Lee
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Date: 16-Apr-17 |
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Not trying to hijack Rookies thread but what distance do you shoot when using arrow groups to tune BH? Rich
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From: BigHorn
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Date: 16-Apr-17 |
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Seems like some each bow is a little different. I had a bear grizz that was silent when the brace height hit 8" and without silencers. Thats the only bow that ive had that hapoen with.
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From: Knifeguy
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Date: 17-Apr-17 |
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To answer Pdiddly's question: My nock set is from the arrow rest not the center of the bow square. I place the arrow under the nock. I just measured my K-mag and it's actually 9/16" so I apologize to Rookie If I mislead him. I should have said "between 1/2' and 5/8" for good arrow flight". Thanks for getting my attention Pete. Lance.
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From: camodave
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Date: 17-Apr-17 |
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One more thing to not worry about until you have solid form.
DDave
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From: JustSomeDude
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Date: 17-Apr-17 |
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I find it accidentally and then write it down!
I have a Herters that is SILENT now but still shocky
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From: deerhunt51
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Date: 17-Apr-17 |
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Nock height is adjusted by arrow flight and paper tuning.
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From: GF
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Date: 17-Apr-17 |
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On the noise thing.... there are several decibel-meter phone apps out there if you don't trust your hearing.
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From: Red Beastmaster
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Date: 18-Apr-17 |
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Exactly as Knifeguy described. It's not hard.
Some on here love to over complicate things. Keep it simple.
As for broadhead tuning........if my heads are on straight they will fly the same as the target points. After that, I stand back 40-50 yards and watch flight for any wiggles. That head may need reseating or culled from the herd.
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