From: Coyote
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Date: 13-Apr-17 |
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We recently did a bunch of target repair on the static range at the local club. We wanted to experiment with target materials other than the standard bag targets and gunny sacks filled with plastic. One of the butts we built was strips of donnacona wall board sandwiched together. It works just fine, is easy to repair but I find it leaves donnacona residue on my wood shafts. The shafts have been finished with polyurethane and I suspect friction heats the poly and causes the material to stick to it.
I'm looking for some ideas to prevent this. I'm considering wax or wiping the shafts with dish soap. Does anyone have any other ideas?
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From: Dkincaid
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Date: 13-Apr-17 |
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Goo b gone
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From: Bob Rowlands
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Date: 13-Apr-17 |
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Yup urethane is nasty target arrow finish for that reason. I've used turpentine and mineral spirits and steel wool. I quit poly finish many years ago. Now I use TruOil. Yeah it takes awhile but it is a WHOLE lot nicer than poly.
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 13-Apr-17 |
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Clean up the arrows with the goo gone. Any thing stronger may take off the finish. Then apply some kind of paste wax, car wax, whatever you have. Carry a small bar of hand soap and apply before shooting that target. Poly is a great finish and I had your same experience as you have. I also have moved away from using it. These days I use pure Tung Oil. Takes longer but I can refresh the finish anytime.
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From: Fisher
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Date: 13-Apr-17 |
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I learned this from a video of Gene Wensel After cleaning the shafts, apply armor all and let dry overnight. Arrows will pull easier from targets.
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From: bigdog21
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Date: 14-Apr-17 |
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use car wax on your arrows this will end the problem and last for months
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From: Buzz
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Date: 14-Apr-17 |
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The target face at the clubhouse is donnaconna.
A bit comes out with all the arrows, wood, carbon and aluminum.
was replaced about three years ago, will agian in future.
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From: aromakr
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Date: 14-Apr-17 |
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Not familiar with that material, however I have found that oil base finishes when cure don't target burn like Poly's or lacquers. I say cure, oil bases take about 10-14 day's to fully cure. They are dry to the touch and can be worked with over night, but take about 10 to cure.
Bob
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From: Jim
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Date: 14-Apr-17 |
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I use Spar urethane and don't have that problem. Are you using water based products? If I do get anything on them, I can usually wipe them clean with a little mineral spirits on a rag.
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From: tradarcherychamp
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Date: 14-Apr-17 |
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I spray my arrows with silicone, let dry, they pull out so much easier and don't pull chuncks of foam out.
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From: N. Y. Yankee
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Date: 14-Apr-17 |
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Get a bottle of good liquid car wax, rub in a coat with a rag and buff when dry.
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From: RJH1
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Date: 14-Apr-17 |
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A bar of bath soap should stop it. I soap my arrows between shots at 3d matches and it keeps residue off and they pull from the targets easier
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 14-Apr-17 |
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Mr. Bob made a statement that should be in bold letters. The finish has to cure. I took a class at college on wood finishing. At the beginning of the first month our instructor sprayed a sample board with poly. After a month she said it was OK to rub out the finish. Of course her sample board came out like glass. But the point she was making was the amount of time needed for the poly to cure.
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From: SHOOTALOT
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Date: 14-Apr-17 |
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I still use gasket lacquer, it won't completely solve the problem but it's a lot better than polly.
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From: BACK YARD
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Date: 14-Apr-17 |
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Silicone works well. Been using it for years. Get it at Walmart for a couple of bucks.
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From: aromakr
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Date: 14-Apr-17 |
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Gasket lacquer is probably the worst finish that has ever been made. First off it is so thick and dries so fast it doesn't adhere to the shaft, it lays on the surface. Being such a thin coat it doesn't take much to puncture the finish coat which will allow moisture to get under it, then it just peals off.
Bob
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