Hey guys. First time I've had this issue. Trying to get the perfect arrow set up for the WARF riser I was fortunate enough to win the drawing for from Sam.

It's the Back Bear riser. I have Black Max limbs, shorts [email protected] 50 on this riser at my draw. Have a Bear Weather Rest on it.

When bare shaft tuning, GT Traditional .400 cut to 29.5 with standard inserts and a 200gr head are perfect. And I mean PERFECT...couldn't ask for it to fly or impact any straighter.

Went to the Archery shop today and bought the last 3 they had. Cut them to 29.5. They were already fletched...nothing fancy but good enough. Shot them and they fly funky and impact tail left. What the hell??? Tried field points from 85 to 250... all tail left. Tried every fletched shaft I've got ranging from 300 to 600...all tail left.

What gives?

Right handed shooter BTW

Sounds like one of, or maybe a combination of both of two things:

(1) Fletching is making contact at pass.

(2) Shafts are to stiff when fletched.

(3) Combination of 1 & 2

From your description of changing in a wide range of point weights, I'm betting on #1 being the problem.

Rick

I'll bet you are really frustrated.This is out of my realm of expertise, but, I'd say the are way too stiff. Carbons in general are very stiff, and they are very light. The arrow needs to bend around the riser, or the fletch will smack it, especially with the very light stiff tail of carbon shaft. Just a guess I am not even close to expert on this. You might try checking your setup on Stus calculator. Good luck. Wish I had better advise, I shoot wood arrows.

Thanks for the reply Rick. I tried turned the shaft and put the cock feather up, down, in, out thinking that might make a difference. It didn't. What would you recommend to heal the issue?

Probably what Rick said. I just went through a nightmare trying to tune an ILF rig. VPA riser With Uuka limbs. Tillered for split. Tried everything but nothing was perfect but GT 400's were the best. Finally went to an even tiller and magic. Tuned perfect with 600's. I have 28.25" draw and bow is 42#. Still scratching my head.

Not familiar with the riser but I agree with Rick. It sure sounds like contact to me. I first thought the new arrows were marked wrong. Since you tried other shafts,I think you ruled out spine. Cut the feathers off one of the new arrows to double check. Good luck. >>>----> Ken

I wish I had took a picture...I had a group the size of a half dollor at 17 yards. The bare shaft was perfect, then a 600, 500 and the 400 fletched arrows were all tail left.

Hey Brandon.

Without seeing the way you have the shelf of your rig set up, it would be hard to make further determination. Pictures would help a lot, then we can try to solve it from there.

Rick

To the best of my understanding I'm tillered even. I'm new to this ILF stuff. But I bottomed out both limb bolts then backed out a quarter of a turn.

This old Weather Rest looked like this when I put it on. It was on an old Bear Grizzly I found at a yard sale. It was the only elevated rest I had in the bow box so I just stuck it on. Think it could be the problem?

Brandon, it's not completely out of the question, but is highly unlikely your tiller is even when the limb bolts are at equal turns.

You need to measure it. Generally, you can measure from the string to the belly side of the limbs right at the end of the riser, and get an accurate tiller measurement.

I would definitely give that a look before I went any further.

Rick

Put some red lipstick on the edge of your fletching. See if it leaves a red trail on the rest.

Rick

Rick, measured as you said, 7 3/8 upper and lower with a tape measure hooked over the string.

I'll give the lipstick thing a try tomorrow...if my wife has any in red lol. I dang sure ain't gonna go buy lipstick and have her find it laying around. That'd be hard to explain lol.

Thanks for all the help.

Thanks to everybody else as well. I'll post back tomorrow after I get a chance to shoot it again.

And just for grins, experiment with your nocking point. There is a 'fudge factor' range where it doesn't necessarily change impact point bare shaft but could result in a bounce fletched.

How much wear is on the side of the rest? That bit there pushes the arrow out like a plumber button.

Are the shafts impacting left or right of the bareshafts, or do the impact in the same vertical line?

Whats your knock height. Try 5/8's. Its my starting point for all bows. If you draw at least 28" and are using a,high performance string, i would get some 340 shafts at that length. Maybe even 300s if you want more than 145 grain heads

Work on 1 thing at a time, so you can identify the problem.

Do the arrows, shooting bare shaft all land on or very close to a vertical line on the target? Is that where the 17 yard group was located? If so, you are in the proper spine range. If not, you aren't. Arrows landing left of the line are stiff, arrows landing right of the line are weak.

If the bareshafts and the fletched land in the same vertical plane, then spine is on the money.

If the fletched land in the vertical plane but the nocks kick out, then as was stated, it's likely a conatct problem.

Nock height should have -0- to do with left and right unless it's REALLY off.

Thanks guys! I'm thinking contact problem then from all this info. I've shot damn good groups, as stated above, but the 29.5 bare shaft .400 GT with 200gr head is the only one that impacts straight. With the others (fletched), it's point on but tail left...some way worse than others.

It was really messing with my head so I did shoot some more bare shafts that I knew were way out just to settle my mind...full length 600's with 200gr point, 75/95's with 100gr point. Both bare shaft extremes behaved as they should.

Fletched arrows gave me fits though. I'll experiment more tomorrow.

Thanks for all the advise.

I agree that it sounds like a contact problem. The best setup that I found for my new warf is an old star hunter arrow rest with the side plate removed and plunger installed, 100% fletching clearance.

Do you shoot split or 3 under and if you did not back out much turn the bottom limb bolt all the way in. I would not shoot the bow even tiller/ Shawn

I would sprinkle baby powder over the shelf and rest rather than lipstick. Easier to remove.

Anybody know why shoes have rubber on the sole? Traction.

Soooooooooo, right off hand I'd say you have too much traction on your arrow. Seriously, get a different rest.

Bowmania

Nah. Bear weatherest and Hoyt stickons are an archery staple. The only tome i dont like them is if it gets my arrow higher than i want to balance on the bow or to get my point on down

My neighbor had a stick on rubber rest. You could hold the arrow by the nock and slide it over the rest. It would literately skip and hop on the rest. A rest needs to be slick and smooth. See if an arrow glides across it. I believe those risers are cut well past center. You probably need to build it out with a thicker piece of Velcro or furniture leg pad. Good luck. >>>------> Ken

2 Bears is correct I believe, had that same rest and noticed what he was describing by pure accident. I put some Armour all on the rest edge and got it so it wouldn't skip along , then I shot it afterwards and that seemed to correct any problems.

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