I got a old bow I'm guessing 1940-early 50's, it Osage backed with either burlap or linen. Has the grumbled recurve tips. I was afraid to do anything but the guy said it's been on my wall for 30 years. What are you out? I put my stringer on it and every day flex it, more and more until it was past my draw of 27"( I ore my helmet and face mask I use when running my chainsaw. Finally strung it up (with helmet) and drew it a couple times then put an arrow and and let ER Go! Hard to find your anchor with a face mask on!. I shot it now quite a bit and have no worries. Weighed it at the pro shop 60#@27. I tried 50-55,55-60,60-65 and they all show stiff. The50- 55 are the closest. It just barely has a rest so I guessing I need weaker??? Your thoughts

hope this helps. I would of loved to see you with the face shield and helmet on that's funny stuff there. a lot depends how long are your arrows and tip wt.

see if this clears it up better

Yup, I would think that 50#s spine would be very close. Shoot a .600 spine carbon cut to 28.5"s with 175 up front. I have 2 self bows, bith real good performers and the heavy one is 55#s at 28"s and shoots 29" .600 spines with 225 up front very well. Remember self bows can vary in performance a real lot!! Shawn

Same as any other bow. Measure how far from the center of the limb the side plate is. That's the centershot. Deduct 5lbs. per 1/8" from the draw weight. So if it's 1/4" from the center of the limb, deduct 10 lbs. That is for 28" arrows. And, as with any other bow, that may, or may not be EXACTLT right depending on you.

A 28" 55# shaft with 125 up front should be perfect. If not? You have other issues to resolve. Self bows get a bad rap for needing extra weak spines, that's simply not true.

I have a 59 Grizzly that draws the same as my fave selfy and they both shoot 29.5" 50# arrows the same. One is cut 3/8+ off center and one is cut right on center. Self bows don't like to be held, keep that grip LOOSE and relaxed.

arrowchucker, you did not mention the length of the arrows you shot at the shop. jawge

Also, knowing the point weight would help us.

Just what fdp said for measuring the shelf then just like any other bow.

Base everything on a 28" arrow then +\- 5# for every inch over or under 28"

+\- 5# for every 25 grains of point weight under or over 100 grains

Should be a Dacron string so no calculation needed there.

Lots of self bows shoot high performance strings. I do not agree about the 5# this way or that with self bows. Selfbows vary a lot from bow to bow so it is hard to be sure. Shooting a 5/16th shaft may even help a bit! Shawn

On your 50-55s that are close, can you jump up one weight group in point weight? From 125s to 145s or 160s? And so on....

Seems a heavier arrow would be nice to give that old bow to reduce energy transfer to the limbs with a lighter arrow. Might keep it shooting longer.

Does anybody still know how to make shoemakers' linen strings? That's what I used for my 43# 1929 lemonwood longbow in 1957, to kill my first mule deer. Zwickey of course. Probably dowel from hardware store.

Boy Scouts had instructions for shoemakers' linen strings.

my 50-55's are !!/32 Footed with purple heart. Then nock taper to 5/16. 28" tbop, 125 gr points. I do have a few heavy pts I'll try

x2 arrowchucker add more tip wt. what brace height are you set at mite raise it about 3 twist at a time if possible.

I agree with Frank, need to know the distance from center of the limb to strike plate, before a recommendation can be given.

Bob

I agree with Pearl,, most self bows dont need a weak spine unless the bow is not set up right,,, unless the tips are not lined up or something wierd, it should shoot some of those arrows you are trying,, when you say they all show stiff, what does that mean,, you mean the point of impact is not like a center shot bow,, ???? it might be that the brace is a bit low?? if you are getting good arrow flight,,, then they are not stiff,, you are probably just not used to the point of impact of that bow,, you may have to anchor more under your eye,, or cant the bow a bit till you get used to it,,:)

arrowchucker,

It has been my experience that self bows need weaker arrows than the poundage of the bow.

Remember that good arrow flight is defined as seeing nothing but the rear of the fletching.

If you need to, since you already have the arrows and since you started this thread, there must be something going on in your arrow flight you don't like.

There is an option if the need arises. You could go up to heavier points. I believe 145 and 160 grains are a possibility. They would make the arrows behave like they were more lightly spined. You could go down to 100 grain if you need a more heavily spined, behaving arrow.

Another option is to leave arrows longer and cut them down accordingly. But you cannot.

The proof is in the arrow flight. Arrows fly well or they do not.

If they do not then fix the problem.

I usually have arrows of different spines laying around which I use to test arrow flight.

More on my site.

http://traditionalarchery101.com/selfbowcare.html

Jawge

jk, if you can find the material, making the string is actually the easy part.

also,, I think ones release is more crital on a self bow,, and that sometimes makes it seem that the arrow is not right, but really it is the release of the archer,, with good form a self bow can shoot a wide range of spine arrows,, from heavier to lighter than the bow weight,,depending on the bow and how the string lays on the handle, and how the archer is gripping the bow,, I think a lighter hold is more forgiving to arrow spine,,

I also have a feeling if you pull that bow to the full 27 inches, your 50 55 should shoot great,,

fdp...Tandy probably has that shoemaker's linen. Not that it matters I suppose, but I've read that it was less stretchy than Dacron...

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