What makes a proper back quiver? What are the qualities? If the lengh of your arrows from tip to tip are "X" then should the quiver be X-6" or is there a good rule for depth?

I'll help you as much as I can...

I don't think there's any rule for height/length, but when I built my own I set it up so that the front end of the fletching overlaps the rim by abut a half an inch when I've got field points in there..

But now I'm shooting longer arrows and considering shorter fletchings and of course then there's the difference in length between a field point, a broadhead, an Ace hex blunt, a regular steel blunt, a rubber blunt and a Judo; then you get in to glue-on vs. screw-on and who-knows-what else. Some guys shoot different length arrows with different bows because that's what they got to tune correctly, or because they use different aiming techniques under specific circumstances... I use different fletchings for different kinds of shooting, and it's not uncommon for me to carry a bit of a mix...

So I don't think it's critical, and I'm not sure I've ever seen anybody selling them a specific lengths or depths, though maybe there are some custom crafters who do... Maybe that's why some guys like fur around the top - it hides those "unsightly" bare shafts! (Oh, the horror of it!)

Main thing for me is just that if the quiver is too deep then you can't get your arrow out of it just holding it by the nock end... and that could lead to a lot of wear on your quiver if the point of your arrow scrapes along the inside of it because your arms are too short.

As to other qualities... The guys here who have used them forever (and plan to continue) who have stated repeatedly that the leather has to be stiff enough that it doesn't collapse at the ends, but pliable enough that it will do so in the middle. That keeps you from crowding fletchings and broadheads, but allows some purchase on the shafts themselves so that you don't dump them all out every time you bend forward to pull an arrow out of a stump.

And it's good to have a strap that allows you to bump the bottom of your quiver towards the rear with your bow-side elbow to move the opposite end higher on our shoulder for easy arrow extraction. By the same token, it's good if you can pull the quiver into a side-mounted position and pinch it under your bow-arm to keep your arrows in place when you have to hustle through the woods or crawl through some brush.

And I think that pretty well exhausts my expertise. Hope some of it helps...

I have a Nate Steen. He has lots of questions and measurements and Got it right. But I don't know the secret formula

My arrows are 30 1/2 BOP. I made my quiver 23 1/2 long. It fit field points, broadheads and blunts without the arrow shafts sticking way out. I'd say the quiver height depends on your arrow length. Deno

GF Good info there. You covered it all very well. Deno

Quivers should be custom made to your arrows. I use a similar approach to the one mentioned, except I have a slight gap between the fletch and the rim of the quiver. Almost all the quivers I see are too narrow, and too upright. But there are different types, and preferences. I go for the Hill style.

If you look online and Images for Hill, Schultz, Steen, and so forth, you will see a lot of arrows sticking up in quivers, and over shoulders, and you will get some ideas. How and where you mount the strap is a huge factor.

In the pic here, you can see the angle of the strap from the front, it isn't like a possibles bag, it is pretty high.

Here is a side pic of Hill

Back view of Steen:

Hace a John Schulz(about 30 years old) and a Nate Steen- about the same in design, very functional

Love the Nate Steen , can't do any better inn my book

24" seems to be kind of a standard. I like to make them so the feathers just clear. Which seems to be with in a couple of inches of 24" for most folks. It saves wear and tear on them.>>>-----> Ken

It's 100% up to the individual, verus a certain prescribed way. Folks in the 50's used many center-back quivers which work just fine in most cases, particularly in roving, etc. Some folks prefer more of a shoulder angle to hide the feathers from potential game. The right way is the way you like it.

I prefer mine high on the right shoulder, and I certainly don't mind just grabbing the arrow by the nock to pull it out. Again, find what works best in your situation and not what others think is "the best."

If you get TBM, there is an excellent on the best qualities and use of back quivers in the most recent edition by Greg Ragan.

" I certainly don't mind just grabbing the arrow by the nock to pull it out."

That is arguably the single most important advantage of the back quiver.

Everything is 100% up to the individual, if you say so. But the whole point of questions and real answers is cutting the learning curve down to within one's own lifetime.

I think that this is what you are looking for.

So then I should agree with someone else because it will somehow shorten the learning curve? Dude. It's not nuclear science, it's using a back quiver, which should take even a novice not more than a few hours out of their lifetime. As for single most important? Who says so?

That guy is getting kicked in the butt!! LOL

Yeah, getting "kicked in the butt" for not using a bow stringer! LOL

Hey… You have to come up with SOME kind of excuse for having that in your possession… At least if it doesn't fit your wife!

Well butt kicking aside Cowboy that quiver looks to be laying about perfect in height and angle,at least for me.>>>----> Ken

Imo, proper bq should include all the following; fit, functionality, & fun.

BTW - I've only made 2 so far; this is the better-lookin' of the two...

I think it needs something in the center of the top flap, though....

Meets Straitera's Fun requirement because it's DIY from a couple of KYI deerhides, including my first whitetail w/ a bow. And there aren't any more quite like anywhere...

Nice one GF. Maybe a couple of trade beads and a feather on a leather thong.>>>-----> Ken

Nice one GF. Maybe a couple of trade beads and a feather on a leather thong.>>>-----> Ken

Make that DIY and KIY - no telling what KYI might stand for and I don't want to be held responsible!

Thanks to Ken & Deno for the kind words!

Yeah, sneaky computers. I hit submit and computer just sat there. After a minute I hit it again and it immediately said sent. Now I see it is there twice. Sorry guys. >>>-----> Ken

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