So my new foley bow is 57 lbs @ 28 inches. My friend gave me a dozen 2514 shafts. so.... i'm left handed, any diference between right or left helical feathers? Any idea how much weight out front? I want to shoot 3 under if that makes any difference at all. I have only shot around a dozen shots with this bow with my compound arrows with vanes. I know next to nothing at this point. Thank you in advance.

If they are 34" long I would put 250 on the tips. Really, that is one stiff shaft for your bow. A compound can handle them since those bows are cut well past center. Your Foley, not so much. Depending on how long you want your arrows, and the string type and your draw length, there will be better choices.

Beginner advice: Always listen to George :)

Do you know your draw length? What is on the shelf? Do you know what the center cut is on it?

There is no difference between right or left hand feathers either can be used on any shaft. However the feathers MUST be all the same either RH or LH DO NOT mix them together on any one shaft. Shooting 3 under is fine but until you adjust your aim your arrows may be low. Split finger raises the point of impact, at least in my experience. Welcome to the bright side!

My draw length is 28. There is a side plate on the bow and the shelf is covered in "carpet" for lack of the proper word. I don't know exactly how to tell about the center cut. From the outside of the grip clear to other side of bow is 1 3/4 inches. From the back of the cut away to the other side of riser is 3/4 inch.

I'm going to need a 12 pack to listen to the experts corner tonite. Here's what I would do call the guy that made your bow just a thought.

I have gathered that george should be listened to! So thanks for the input. Will do what you said with the aluminums and buy carbons down the road. As to nockbuster and his 12 pack, I was an alcoholic for 11 years after honorable discharge from marine corps.I finally came to the conclusion i'd better stop putting a thief in my mouth to steal my brains.

You don't need the ultimate arrow rig right now. You need ballpark. By the time you ruin a dozen arrows, you'll be ready to dial it in more.

If you get 29" GoldTip 400 and put on a 175 grn point, you should be in good shape for a while. You can easily add or reduce point weight to dial it in with that arrow and be in a good GPP range.

Try to find out how close to center cut your bow is.

Take a look and see if the cut of your arrow shelf is in line with the string. Cut to center, your arrow will still sit inside of center. If the shelf is cut PAST center, your arrow might sit centered (probably isn't). The closer to center cut you are, the more tolerant your bow will be to stiff arrows

Oh yeah....Right Wing feathers CAN help keep your points from coming unscrewed all the time. And you want 4" feather Fletchings

just bought a doz gold tip blemishes from Big jims today $50

just bought a doz gold tip blemishes from Big jims today $50

Hey olboy, you might be interested in going to the

3riversarchery

site click on the dynamic spine calculator. Be sure to input all data accurately. You can really start to learn a lot about spine by messing with the inputs. Worked for me and believe me I was clueless prior to finding that calculator. Have fun and good luck.

Buy "Shooting the Stickbow" by Anthony Camera (Viper) and "Precision Archery" by Steve Ruis and Claudia Stevenson. Find a trad shop (if possible) around you live. Find a local club and pick the brains of the best shooter. Good luck!

some 2018s start at 30" 125 tip

sorry to disagree with others but carbon seem hard to get tuned and you will get 10 different variations for the same set up. it makes me think all carbon are not created equal. go 2018 to start they will be really close to what you need, and the arrow is the most important part of the trad. bow if you don't have a close spin arrow your shooting will suffer. in not grouping good and not hitting where your looking and that's when most new comers lose interest they cant hit there target not knowing its more the arrow then them. the arrow is everything.

Too much information for a beginner. You need go no farther than Mr. George Stout. Bigdog21 is right there too. Sounds like some body has already had a 12 pack. Plenty of time to learn how to measure and tune but right now you need to hone in on the proper arrow selection. Right or left feathers make no difference. Good luck and welcome to the club. >>>-----> Ken

At one time we used to remind new shooters that without great form there is really no use trying to tune arrows. Not sure what happened eh.

DDave

Get some .400 spine carbons and leave them at 30"s and put 275 grains of point weight. If that is too much point weight for you and you draw 28"s, go with a .500 spine carbon cut to 29"s and 175 grain point weight. That is the way I would go. Now go ahead all you flamers! Shawn

FWIW, I find the Excel version of the calculator to be much more useful than the one that they have on 3R.

It's easy to find online and the download is free. And the people who do not value it should put a sock in it until they can do better. Just sayin'...

And in case you don't already know this.. 2bears has told me that a typical nock weighs about 12 grains, and inserts for aluminum or carbon arrows weigh 20 to 30 grains each. I'm assuming that the skinnier the shaft, the lighter the inserts will be. If you know the exact components that you will be using, you can always look that up… But it is nice to have something to get you into the ballpark.

And I think camo Dave has given perhaps the most critical piece of advice here, which is that you absolutely cannot get your bow and Arrows properly tuned to each other until you can shoot some pretty decent groups. So choose a shaft that is Close Enough in spine and stick some big feathers on the back.... and then go have yourself some fun!

You didn't say what arrows you're shooting out of your compound and how they flew out of your Foley. If they flew great, you may want to use the same type/spine arrows and fletch it with some feathers. You may also want to use the same point weight as the one used for your compound.

As for L or R helical, it doesn't make any difference if you're L or R handed. To prevent your tips from getting loose you may want to put some string wax on the threads and snug it down with pliers. Got this tip here on the Wall. Works for me!

Welcome to the ADDICTION!

Tips vibrate loose due to arrow oscillations on release (paradox). I just use two or three wraps of dental floss around the threads. RH feathers will spin away from the bow window, but you won't see a difference.

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