Well, good friend of mine heard me talking to another this summer about maybe starting a selfbow, and he took me serious! Brought me a 3"x74" hickory stave (tree) from Virginia yeterday, so now I guess I'll have to get serious, question is where do I start? Haven't paid much attention, but y'all can get me pointed in the right direction! And 1st question, can I get 2 longbows out of this tree? Also he cut it in June, so how long should I let it dry before starting?

No, just one stave. Is the bark still on?

Typically, it takes a 1 year for every inch to season.

There is a hickory buildalong on my site.

http://traditionalarchery101.com/webbaby.html

Also, let me recommend Paul Comstock's book...The Bent Stick which us available from 3Rivers and they are sponsors.

Jawge

I agree with George 1 bow , winter cut hickory can be tuff to get the inner bark off with out violating the ring it can be done but needs patients there is good reading on that subject in TBB 1 as well as building tips on George's site hickory is a fine bow wood and makes a great bow and becomes a supper performer with heat tempering hickory likes to be well seasoned but if you ruff out a bow it seasons quickly you could have a seasoned bow in a couple months good luck !

I highly recommend the Gary Davis Rattlestick DVD.

I'm new at this also Wyatt, but I recommend Jawges site, he makes it pretty simple and straight forward.

Don't forget to pick up what is recommended as far as reading material.

You have four guys here that know what they are doing and there are many more.......Ron

Here's a thread on tradgang I did on a hickory bow from a tree not much bigger than yours.

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi? ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=013685;p=1#000002

I have a video on it too but youtube is being weird right now.

It's never been my experience that Hickory was really particular about whether you violated a ring on the back or not. Especially if you make it wide. 1.75" or so.

It's Hickory, letting it season is a waste of time. Start working it right now, You need to know it it has bugs or not. Start debarking the ting so you can tell soemthing about it.

I would remove the bark, and start working the belly right now.

Here's the video.

https://youtu.be/0IoRN6iZWxE

Well, I apologize guys, forgot to post the pic of the stave! Here it is, it was cut last June, and there are no bugs, it was sealed after cutting and no sign of bugs, unless they can live that long in a sealed stave. And thanks guys for all the input. Probably George's sight is the way to go, but earlier today, got error message when trying to access it.

3"x74" hickory tree, cut in June and sealed. No sign of bugs, but have no idea if they can exist in a cut, 6 month old, sealed log. Wyatt

Start making bows, no reason to wait.

Try this:

http://traditionalarchery101.com/archer.html

I would treat that as a sapling. What is your draw? I will post some sealing directions tomorrow. Too lat now. Remind me. LOL.

Jawge

I can't tell for sure but that bark should come off with some scraping. But easy does it. No cutting through of rings preferably. Jawge

About ten years ago a guy sent me a stripped pig nut stave from the south east, it had been aged for a few years. i know that did everything wrong, I used stain so I could see the grain lines on the back, then aft I was done I was told that one does not have to do that with a straight billet stave. I used power tools for everything after getting the back done. The bow still shoots great had killed deer and a bunch of rabbits and even a pheasant. Mine is nearly two inches wide and fairly flat, it shoots so close to a glass backed longbow that people think I should make more of them, but I really just guessed my way through it. I was told that pignut hickory needs to be very dry to shoot right, mine must be very dry.

I would consider that one bow if it was mine. As it sits on the table I would make the top the belly and what is facing down on the table the back, barring no big knots that might make me change my mind.

Sapling Bow directions...

Lots of good advice here!

Look for a sapling 2-3 inches and free of limbs.

Hold the stave like you were going to string it to see if it flips around on you.

Orient the stave so it doesn’t flip and there’s the back and belly. Further run a string tip to tip and see if it falls on the handle area.

Marking 2 magic marker lines to delineate back from front would help.

Leave it full width and taper to 1 in. nocks from about mid limb.

Leave the stave a few inches longer than usual to counteract the crown.

Remove the belly wood with a hatchet, draw knife, etc.

Remove the bark. You can get it bending an inch or 2 and it will dry faster.

Without a moisture meter, after awhile weigh the stave and see if the weight is constant for few days.

Also, the shavings give a clue. Are they dry and crinkly or do the appear “wet”.

Jawge

this is making me want to make a sapling bow,,:)

Well, got started and stripped 'er down. Now on to the next step! Finally got a draw knife, worked great!

Working the hatchet, a little reluctant to use it, but decided it wouldn't be too risky, lots of work though! Shaping to my layout, stave is a little green yet, so taking my time. Jawge's videos are great for build along, but need some advice on floor tillering. Couldn't find a Jawge video on it. Thanks guys, in advance.

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