Springy rests - I remember some real good recurve field and target shooters who used these in the 1970s.

Call me "Retro Eric" but I'm thinking of putting one on my ILF setup and get ready with it for upcoming field events in barebow class. The rest is simple and sturdy, and adjustable including different spring stiffnesses.

A company in Calf, Pat Norris Archery, sells them.

What do you think? Besides that I need to get a life lol

Thank you, Eric

For target... go for it if you like how they work.

I had a mech rest (drop-away) freeze up on me one snowy September afternoon, and it cost me an Elk, so I'm down to thin leather that won't collect any precip.

Might try George's favorite on the old Howatt, though...

Thanks Matt.

I have one on my Rambo Warf. I had a few left from our wheel bow days. There are some guys over on TradTalk that use Pat's rest. Some good info on the springs and bow weights.

I use to shoot alot of comp. Saw Marvin Batliner shoot if I remember a 360 with a target compound and spring using a 2 finger stanoslowski back tension release.The guy looked like a machine whe he shot.

I use to shoot alot of comp. Saw Marvin Batliner shoot if I remember a 360 with a target compound and spring using a 2 finger stanoslowski back tension release.The guy looked like a machine whe he shot.

I used Springy Rests for everything for over 20 years. The darn things a bulletproof. Seems I always had to use the heavy spring. Not that you're interested, but here's how I set them up on my hunting bows. Moleskin and a dab of silicone in the coil--replace as needed. 8^)

I use a springy on my barebow setup. I like it immensely.

Springy rest is all I use, hunting or target. I have one of Pat's micro adjust springy and love it.

I'm going to take the plunge, but what weight spring would you recommend? My ILF barebow setup draws approx 38-40 lbs and I shoot alumimum. 20? 25?

Eric, what riser are you putting a springy on?

Get one of his multi packs of springs. Comes with 2 of each weight. I ended up using a 15oz on a 40-45# bow and a 25 on a 50#. Its all in your setup.

Thank you very much

I have Pat's micro tune springy rests on both of my primary hunting bows. They are excellent rests. Gary and Sandy McCain have both used them to win numerous national championships.

For you, get the light and medium springs. See wh8ch works best.

I used a springy rest on my compound bows for over thirty years. As a finger shooter It never let me down whether I was shooting tournaments, or hunting. Put Teflon tubing on while hunting.

Eric you going back aways! If I remember correctly the flipper 1 & 2 took alot of the market away. Good luck!

I'm an anachronism!

I used them for years I put shrink tube on them there great to use with vans for bad weather and cheaper fletching.

In the 1970's, there was a new arrow rest and sight about every month, or it seemed so. The springy had plenty of followers, but the NAP Flipper II had the market around here...along with a Berger Button which pretty much created a revolution of it's own in the 1960's.

As an aside, I found this on the net and thought a few of you may enjoy the history aspect:

"""The cushion plunger was invented by a man named Norm Pint. Norm and his wife Shirley had an archery shop in Iowa and they were both PAA shooters back in the 1960’s. He called his invention a Panic Button and put it on the market in the mid 1960’s. Since virtually none of the bows were drilled and tapped for any kind of lateral spine point, you were required to drill a hole in your riser to install his panic button.

Most of the bow handles were made of wood at that time and you had to have some confidence that this thing would work before you put your favorite bow in a drill press. Consequently the Panic Button was not as popular as it could have been or was destined to be as the bows progressed.

The instructions for the Panic Button explained that the advantage to the device was that it would help correct your arrow flight on those shots when the archer tended to panic a little and not have the smoothest release. In other words it was not intended to correct arrow spine but merely it was there to help correct for some of the inconsistencies of the archer.

That statement is still true today. Other than very minor effects, the cushion plunger will not correct poorly matched arrow spine, period!! The principles of column loading still apply. A few years after Norm started marketing his Panic Button, the bows started getting a little more sophisticated with metal risers and take down bows beginning to hit the market. Along with that the manufacturers began putting a drilled and tapped hole in the riser to accommodate and adjustable spine point.

About that time Vic Berger started manufacturing his own version of the Panic Button and he called it the Berger Button. Vic was one of the best recurve shooters I have ever seen and was a very popular figure in the archer arena at the time. Vic sold a considerable number of Berger Buttons and consequently whenever anyone talked about a cushion plunger they called it a Berger Button no matter who made the product. Most people assumed that because Vic Berger sold so many plungers that he actually invented it. It is amazing how many people I have had to correct over the years when they refer to a cushion plunger as a Berger Button."""

Thanks George, I still say "Berger Buttons" rather than "plungers," and the younger people look at me and don't understand - some have challenged historical perspective.

Great read, thanks for sharing

Vic didn't just start making the panic button. He reinvented it as the berger button. He didn't feel it took care of all the fine tuning that could be done to improve arrow flight. By the time he was done it didn't resemble the original. He put a sheet with each button telling people how to tune and fine tune with it. His came with 3 springs and each springs tension was adjustable. The only way it helped with shooting different spines was if you had a weak shaft you could change the bows centershot. Kinda like turning a bow cut past center into one not even cut to center to tune your bow. The thing I liked about it as a bowhunter was that if your broadheads didn't hit exactly with the field points but was close you could adjust the spring tension to fix it. My problem was only 1 or 2 of my recurves was cut far enough past center to use one. But all my target bows had one.

If yo ca find an old one, they used to make micro adjustable springys. You had a nob on the back side of the riser that you could turn to move the springy straight in or out as much or little as you wanted.

GLF,

Pat Norris is remaking them now.

Oh ok. I got one bow cut far enough center to use one n have some adjustment.

The spring rest pictured in this thread is a lot more businesslike than the ones I remember.... I think my concerns about bad weather would be resolved by the one shown.... but I'm not ready to put my bows under the press to install one...

I see stuff like this and just have to wonder if they couldn't have used just a little bigger bolt. Like say 7/8 or 1". Many beautiful bow risers were screwed up in the 1960s with stuff life this. I never will understand the mindset of a man that spent two weeks pay on a bow that then gets out the old Craftsman drill and a half inch bit and bores a hole through some Brazilian Rosewood. They should have come out with metal risers fifteen years earlier than they did. Eeeeek!

It's about time for someone to post that cushion plungers and elevated rests are not "traditional"!

Back in the day after going over to compounds and having a lot of success hunting using a Springy rest i switched to the Flipper rest and Berger button had a little better accuracy but one cold December day after sitting on stand about six hrs on my third straight day i had a very good buck walk into range ,at the shot all went wrong sound wise shot about 2 ft low could not believe it looked and saw my Flipper was gone it had came off with the shot, the stick on failed that was the only defect of the rest ,but i went back to the Springy.Now i don't have a bow that is cut enuff past center to use one.

Ollie neither am I,lol.

That's all I use on my Titan risers love them

Metal risers were available in the USA right after World War II, when aluminum was once again available for non war use. Don't know where that puts them in the "trad community" but to me that's a pretty good sign they are older than most who post here. Par-X, Grimes, Apollo and Seafab bows....all metal take down/take apart bows were used in the first NFAA shoot in 1946.

As for people drilling their risers for sights, plungers, etc., folks back then were concerned with their accuracy, not someone's romantic notion of what they should be doing with their bows and arrows.

I know this a old thread but I was just reading up on springy rests, and I could not help but comment. George Stout your last comment here is so true that it’s laughable. Every person that Is a modern day traditionalist needs to read it. Everyone shooting a recurve or longbow is in the same general group, you may have a different way of doing it but we are all after the same goal, hitting what we are aiming at. For some reason though some people find a way to get mad at those who want to be accurate.

That's what I like about the internet. Lots of information to be found for those that want to look for it. The more you google the more you learn.

I've always shot and released with my fingers and for me nothing ever worked any better than a springy rest on wheel bows. I've still got most of the wheel bows I've used over the last 35+ years and they all still have a springy rest screwed in the side of the riser.

Eric -

I tried them when they first came out and several times thereafter. For split finger shooters, I found them to be crap then and they haven't changed since. The problem is that unless you have a perfect string grip, any downward pressure, deflects the rest downward, having a similar effect to a moving nocking point. Notice that just about every other rest (and obviously the shelf) is rigid in the vertical plane.

Some bare bow types shooting 3 under seem to think that up and down movement helps to prevent the arrow bouncing because of the crawls they use. IMHO, the problem is with the technique and the springy is just a band-aid.

Viper out.

Bringing this back up...just traded for this Dryad 19" metal riser (love it), and it came with this springy rest. As you can see in the pic, it has all brass components...wondering who makes this rest, and what size of spring is on here.

I'm in love with this rest...simple to tune and it looks bomb proof. I'm shooting FMJ's, 340's, 29.25" with 200 up front. I want to order extra springs (just in case). I'm thinking the plastic on the arm is heat shrink tubing, as I don't see the springs being sold with it on the arm.

This riser and rest, with my Border 56# limbs, really drill those 340's...super fast, super quiet, and accurate!

I have one similar to that. After a lot of discussion on another site I found it the Company was Golden Key Futura. There is another version still being made by Pat Norris Archery. I believe I tried mine on one of my compounds back in early 1980’s? Been so long I can’t recall my results. It may not have worked out as I was shooting 85# using 2419 arrows.

Looks a lot nicer then the ones I use to use.

I use some of the older ones without adjustments. DAS risers and warf risers. they work well. Steve Long

I used one of the adjustable ones made by golden key futura in the 70s. The nice thing is being able to adjust without loosening the rest. So once its set leven it stays.

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