From: lefty4
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Date: 07-Mar-15 |
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I really like 2115 aluminum arrows. I shoot them out of a lot of different bows. Some of my bows just don't like them, even though I want them to. So, out of necessity ...
I wanted to do some tinkering and devised a technique that works pretty well when trying to build out the strike plate to adjust your bow to the arrow. It's likely not even close to a "new idea" and George Stout was probably doing this with papyrus many years ago. But it is very simple, and it works.
I took a cardboard tablet backing and made a strip and several "inserts". With electrician's tape, attach one piece of cardboard over the strike plate (as shown in the picture). You can keep inserting additional pieces of cardboard between the original strike plate and the taped on piece. In literally seconds, you can "build out" the temporary strike plate to get the desired thickness. Once you are dialed in and have your bow tuned to your arrows, you know the thickness you need for the permanent strike plate.
One word of caution though. The electrician's tape plate works pretty well and I have some that have had several hundred arrows across them and still look new.
I get lots of good ideas on here and just wanted to share one that works well for me.
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From: Thin Man
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Date: 07-Mar-15 |
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Great idea. I've used masking and painters tape to hold "variable" strike plates in place for experimentation purposes before locking in with the real deal. All's good while the tape holds, and you can quickly run through multiple configurations and observations with very little fuss and muss.
Small strips of tape also work well as temporary nock locators when you're tuning.
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From: GLF
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Date: 08-Mar-15 |
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I add layers of moleskin. Then when the bows tuned I pull off the moleskin and cut a 1/8" wide sliver from the moleskin and put it under the strike plate.
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From: Downunder
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Date: 08-Mar-15 |
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In about 1964 Hoyt Pro Medalists had a screw adjustable plate which they placed an arrow rest on. Revolutionised bow tuning overnight. The plate was able to be moved in or out with micrometer precision. You just turned the small knurled nob to tune the bow to slightly different spined arrows. It became very easy to get near perfect arrow flight. Then a thing called a Berger button was invented that made tuning even better. Still used to this day in Olympic or FITA archery.
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From: doug
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Date: 08-Mar-15 |
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just wondering,,,,,,,,is that top limb mismatched to that riser?
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From: Bowmania
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Date: 08-Mar-15 |
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Cardboard is "collapsible" with a lot of pressure. I like using a stick or farmer match taped in as you suggest. If I need a larger diameter I go to different arrow. For smaller I split it in half.
Once I have the correct size, I lift up the strike plate from the front and put in the match, then reseal.
Bowmania
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From: Rick Barbee
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Date: 08-Mar-15 |
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lefty4 - great idea.
[[[ Downunder said: "Then a thing called a Berger button was invented that made tuning even better. Still used to this day in Olympic or FITA archery." ]]]
Actually still used to this day in all archery & bowhunting.
I'm using a bolt in the berger button hole to adjust center shot on an off the shelf bow right now. Been doing it that way for quite a while.
Rick
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From: lefty4
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Date: 08-Mar-15 |
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None of my recurves have holes for Berger buttons or have "adjustable strike plates. I realize those gizmos are very accurate and quick to adjust, AND probably provide better arrow flight than a rug rest and simple strikeplate.
Tablet backs do not collapse and are thin enough to allow slight adjustment. They work pretty well. Adding another layer of velco is often much and isn't easily removed if it was stuck on. And two layers of velcro get pretty "springy".
Lots of ways to skin a cat.
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From: lefty4
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Date: 18-Apr-17 |
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TTT for Brad
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From: JustSomeDude
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Date: 18-Apr-17 |
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Rick, If you happen to see this....what's on your bolt? I have a riser that I want to make an adjustable strike plate for
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