I have a short log of Choke Cherry its about 4 feet long. Anybody try building a bow from this wood.???

Thanks Iktomi.How about the limb ends or tips are they reflexed??.

If I recall correctly, there was an article in TBM three or so years ago about a fellow in Eagle, near Boise, Idaho, who made a chokecherry selfbow and I believe it was sinew backed. He had a picture with the bow and a black bear he had taken. I believe the bow poundage was pretty good. You might research with someone who has old TBMs and get a hold of the guy. Good luck.

THanks Guys

I am thinking on making a 66 inch flatbow with wider limbs than the bow you mention Iktomi. I have a caul with 3 inches of overall reflex I can use. Would you suggest I back the bow ......???? does the wood have a decent growth ring for a back. I have never used this wood before. Thanks John.

Scoop, I think that the bow you are talking about was serviceberry, another good bow wood.

I have made a couple longer bows from chokecherry, like full draw. It is pretty decent wood, a lot like plum in working properties, tougher than regular cherry, still ok in compression. I would sinew back it or make it a bit long, although with a 2" wide limb, that might not be necessary.

Okay I was considering joing at the handle. The log should get me 2 bows if I split it right. I will consider backing the bow after your replies thanks guys. John.

Thanks for the corrections, fellas. You're right.

I have played with Chokecherry a couple of times. It really had some nice properties. The wood is pretty strong and pliable. The grain is long and smooth. Very easy to work. I am a very novice boyer mind you, and did not even follow any rings. The bow ended up fairly short, which is the problem with chokecherry around here - cant find long staves. The bow turned out very snappy. I recurved it wet and it took nicely. Also made a kids long bow for my daughter.

It was around 35# at 24". It was short (47")so I have not pulled it to my draw length.

A while back i wrote about building 6 wild chokecherry bows.I built each bow a little differently.Every thing went well during the building process, even tillered nice,easy wood to work with.They finished up nice.Then about a year later i started shooting them alot.Of the 6 that i built i have 1 left.It is 40 lbs. at 62 inches long 26 inch draw.I had no body damage until the last 1 broke.The last 1 that i broke was 58 inches long 2 and a half inches wide at fades and tapered 1 half inch wide at the tips which i turned back or flipped. I used procedure, and sinewed at the bend of the tips.When the bow broke about 9 inches from the tip just in front of the sinew some how that piece came up, and split my glasses in to 2 pieces,and bruised my left eye.Back of the bow was backed with fiberglass cloth, and ring was not violated.Just telling my experience with wild choke cherry bows.I now call it the hurt wood.If i were to ever build another bow from this stuff,i would definitly sinew back it like the american indians did.May 2018

Black walnut makes a good bow.It has a thick outer growth ring,heat treats very well,and i have never had a failure from it.It is a low mass wood so you can make it wide at the fades and taper to tips, and get a very light bow.I have made them 56 to 62 inches long from 45 to 50 lbs draw weight,and have had no problems.I put the bow in a form that back sets it 4 inches.after it dries i will heat treat it several times then when i tiller i end up with about 1 inch reflex.I have shot these bows many times and none of them failed.I make them from saplings mostly and would say it is a very good bow wood for selfbows.Far better than wild choke cherry.just my experience. hope this may help.

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