After a number of failures, I've been able to successfully make two light draw weight selfbows. Both were made from maple boards. Unfortunately, both are rather unpleasant to shoot because they stack very noticeably toward the end of the draw cycle. I assume that not all selfbows stack, so therefore I further assume that the stack is the result of poor workmanship on my part. I used a tillering gizmo to the best of my ability and the limb profile looks good to my eyes, but the stacking at full draw is definitely there. Thanks for any help or ideas on this issue.

Just curious Dan. How long are these bows nock to nock?

And are thes of the pyramid design?

Can you show a picture at full draw?

I built both bows following a Dan Santana video and the limbs are parallel until the last 9 inches. I am challenged by modern electronic technology so no pictures.

Sometimes a picture is worth 1000 words, especially when it comes to Tiller.

How long is this bow you made? following Dan Santana‘s video.

I never heard of Dan Santana. I will have to check out his videos.

It’s really hard to tell without more information and a picture of unbraced and full draw.

Stacking is usually associated with a shorter bow and a longer draw. String angle gets high and bow limbs are being pulled more towards each other than back.

Normally we say 2x draw length + stiff area of handle.

So if you want a 28” draw. And a stiff handle say 10” non bending area.

Recommended length 28” draw x 2 = 56”+ 10” handle = 66”

This isn’t in stone. Some wood is better. Some wood is poorer.

Bjrogg

If your bow is better than 1.5 wide at the fades draw a straight line from the fades to the tips, and remove that wood out side the lines on one bow. Pyramid style to an extent. Then re tiller, and compare the two. Poundage will drop ,but the bow won't stack as fast, and it may get you to were you want to become a comfortable draw.

That profile tends to put more mass in the mid and outer limbs. Any bit of felt recoil due to mistiming of the limbs, overbuilt limbs and/or tips, poor handle design, flexing in the handle, improper tiller shape, and more, is magnified by that mass placement. So it could be a combination of things.

It's virtually impossible for us to know what the issue might be without seeing pictures or watching it bend.

Sweet shooting bows can be made with the front profile you mentioned, but the other aspects of design, tiller, dynamic balance and such should be as good as we can make them.

What is the side profile shape when drawn? Arc of a circle? Elliptical? Or?

Thank you very much for all of the answers to my question. I should have realized that pictures should have accompanied my post. Duh . . . . . Both of the bows I've made look okay and they shoot successfully, but they definitely stack at full draw. I'll continue to shoot them and if they fail, well . . . nothing ventured,nothing gained. I'll have greater appreciation for the smooth draw of my composite bow.

A well designed and well tillered selfbow does not have to stack. If you made two that both stack, chances are they’re the wrong design for the wood you used. Don’t give up and settle for one that does.

I agree more pyramid design will help. Try fade toward mid limb parallel for 9” then taper to 1-1/4”at 18” from fade, then 1/4-3/8 at tip depending on wood . This makes for a smooth drawing bow. Stiff handle length up to you.

Why shoot a bow that stacks that you are not comfortable shooting. Fix them up so they don't stack.

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