Could use some input. Diehard wood shaft shooter, but would like to try some aluminum shafts. I'm going to buy a bareshaft test kit to dial in the spine, but I have some questions. The test kit includes 3 different spines all with the same outer diameter but different wall thickness. How do the inserts work with varying inner diameters? What kind of glue should I use for the inserts, hot melt or something else? What should I use to cut the shafts, a tubing cutter or something else? Once I get the spine dialed in and order a dozen, what type of glue should I use for fletching? Finally, I've been using Bohning classic nocks for years and my strings are built accordingly. The aluminum test kit is the Easton Autumn Orange shafts and are supplied with the Super nocks installed. Any idea how the nock fit compares to the Bohning classics? Thanks in advance for the help fellas.

The inserts are specific to each shaft size. I use hot melt glue (Ferrell-tite)for installing inserts. The nocks should work okay, but if you want to use the Bohning classics, you can get inserts for the glue on nocks also.

Also, I use a high speed cut off saw to cut the shafts, but a tubing cutter will work okay. Make sure you de-burr the shafts after cutting. I use fletch-tite platinum for fletching. Make sure you clean the shaft with acetone or some kind of none oily cleanser before fletching.

Exactly what Dennis in Virginia said

I usually put wraps on my aluminum shafts, feathers seems to stick better to the wraps. I use super glue for the feathers when gluing them to the wraps.

I am just learning that cptbs. Wraps help a lot especially with tape.

Take a look at 3Rivers Easton black stalker shafts. They have a good price right now. $30 /dz. Some sizes have swaged nock ends too. I just clean al shafts with laqueur thinner or MEK. Never had any problem with Fletch-tite holding feathers to the bare al shafts. Big Jim's hot melt works for inserts.

Super nocks are tighter than glue on classics.

Great info response…..I am planning a switch from carbon to aluminum as well….

the thicker walled ones will be more durable for stumping (16 and above) 2016 Is what I use hot melt for the inserts is fine

I use Saunders NPV to glue on feather directly to the cleaned shaft (dutch cleanser/Ajax)

I like the swaged shafts and glue on nocks but have the newer push in nocks and I have adapted fine

little tighter on the string but have not caused a problem

Easy does it with a tube cutter on aluminum shafts.

A tubing cutter often leaves an inside edge/burr to the cut. A reamer will remove the inside edge/burr and square the cut.

Andy Man, I'm planning on using the thicker walled shafts for durability, and trying to stay at 5/16 shaft diameter, so I'll order a test kit with 2018, 2020, and 2117, and see how those shoot with several different bows.

Thanks for the input so far guys.

Aluminums are my go to shaft. I prefer thicker wall like other guys said. Be careful not to go to stiff, that’s seems to be the common problem today. I see guys using 45# bows with 2216 and 2117s, it’s crazy. If you need more sizes for testing let me know. I can build a wide range from all my used shafts. You just pay shipping. 616-490-0501 Nate

Fall Stalkers are throw away arrows. They are about the softest lot that Easton makes.

You can adjust the nock fit by just dipping them in boiling water and adjust to the fit you like. I used to be sold on the swedged nock but, after getting older I prefer the snap in nocks so I can us lighted trackers (Luma nocks). Sure helps follow the arrow path. I light fletching tape best.

So with the thicker wall on shafts of the same diameter, the stiffer they become as an example 2016, 2018, 2020 also the heavier they become. Depending on draw weigh, arrow length, and point weight being used will determine which shaft will work best. Same as wood arrows with length, spine and point weight. Tubing cutter works very well. Turn the cutter down lightly spin it around the tube a few time, a little more pressure, spin it around again, and so on till the tube is cut through. The issue is, applying to much pressure and deforming the shaft as you cut it with the Tubing cutter. So just a little pressure at a time. The more you cut you'll get the feel for it. It's not hard just something to be aware of. NPV glue for feathers, haven't used the Bohning Platinum for some time, they supposedly change the formula to hold better to aluminum, or use Fletching tape. If you liked capping and cresting woods, you can do that on aluminum and use what ever glue you used for fletching on woods. You'll be gluing to the that finish not the bare shaft. Depending on what string material you use and arrow nock (just like glue on nocks some have different throat sizes) you may need to use a smaller serving diameter. You'll just have to try an see for nock fit. It is possible you may get great nock fit with those that come with with the shafts. Hope this helps. DANNY

Tubing cutter works fine, but you have go in tiny increments to prevent crushing the shaft. I personally will not use any type of reamer. I want the end dead square with full thickness sidewalls, no inside or outside taper.

To accomplish that I just a use a fine cut file square across the end. Light stroke, spin the shaft, repeat four or five times.

You will enjoy the aluminum shafts. I shoot wood and aluminum and enjoy both very much. I started off years ago using a tubing cutter and it worked great. I bought a high quality one from the hardware store. I think it was about $12.00 - $15.00. I now have an arrow saw.

I also like the uni bushing system on aluminum. I like the option of twisting the nock to fine tune my fletch contact.

I use the NPV glue and glue directly to the aluminum shaft. I have some fletched onto wraps and some fletched directly to the shaft. Never had a feather come off.

2117 and 2018 have been my go to for most of my bows.

Good luck and enjoy the aluminum journey.

I wasn't familiar with Fall Stalkers. The sizes were limited too. I used to like "throw away " arrows. But that was when the woods cost $6 /dz. The last shafts I bought were Easton Tributes from Lancaster

The Stalkers shoot fine as you may expect, they just aren't durable.

If you remember the old gold Tru- Flite aluminum that we used to see at Western Auto and places that's the alloy. Same shaft just a different color.

Fall Stalkers will bend on a hard hit on a bag target. The Autumn orange shaft is the same material as Camo Hunters at a great price.

Fall Stalkers are the old 6064 like original Gamegetters. You want any of the 7075 variants. XX75

Get the Orange shafts from 3R. You can also use a hack saw to cut. I use Big Jim’s hot melt for inserts. I use wraps on my aluminum and carbons simply because when it’s refletch time it’s easy to strip everything off and start over. I make wraps from Orcal 650 vinyl paper. One sheet yields 12 wraps. I use either Saunders NPV glue or Bohning Fletch tite for feathers. The Gorilla SG in blue cap bottle works well also. If you decide to use aluminum arrows be prepared for that occasional bend from hitting hard surfaces like rocks. Buy one of those hand held straightening tools.

Thanks again guys. I knew I could depend on the collective knowledge here. Very helpful for an aluminum newbie.

I will dissent about wraps and easy clean up. I have a 3” diameter, 30” copper tube. I remove nocks and feathers, stick the shafts in the tube and fill with acetone. An hour later (I don’t pay attention I’m doing something else) I come back and wipe dry shiny clean shafts.

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