| From: olddogrib
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| Date: 12-Apr-21 |
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I've used Bohning fletchtite for most of my re- fletching needs and never had a problem removing the residual from carbon shafts when re-fletching. I took some aluminums on trade and the fletches must have been put on with epoxy or Krazy glue. I'm used to scraping with a dull exacto-knife, but it doesn't begin to remove this stuff. Would a little abrasive wheel on a Dremel tool work without damaging the shafts?
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| From: M60gunner
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| Date: 12-Apr-21 |
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I feel your pain. Just spent more time than I would admit getting SG off some carbon shafts. I used course steel wool wetted with Acetone. What a pain in the butt. Of cours any factory finish is history so I plan on wiping on a couple coats of waterbased Polycrillic before fletching agian. Tried to talk the shafts owner into putting the wraps under the fletch but that didn’t work.
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| From: MattS
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| Date: 12-Apr-21 |
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I put wraps on my carbons and it makes getting off the glue do much easier. You sacrifice the wrap but time is money and the wraps are cheap.
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| From: MikeT
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| Date: 12-Apr-21 |
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I cant imagine the glue not coming off with a safety razor blade. Thats what I have used for 45 years. Course thats with a good finish like a XX75. You could warm it up a little then scrape
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| From: HEXX
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| Date: 12-Apr-21 |
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I use lacquer thinner and the old fashion ( sand paper ) finger nail file.
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| From: MikeT
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| Date: 12-Apr-21 |
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I should have said a clean sharp safety razor blade.
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| From: M60gunner
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| Date: 12-Apr-21 |
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Yes, wraps are cheap especially if you buy the material and cut your own. I bought 12x12” sheets today for 2 bucks apiece. Actually came to a buck sixty with coupons. But I needed two sheets because wraps for 500 GT’s are a tad over 1” wide. Of course if the wrap is say 6” long then one sheet is enough. I got them at Michael’s.
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| From: Dan In MI
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| Date: 12-Apr-21 |
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I throw AL shafts in a tube of acetone for a couple hours and just wipe them down.
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| From: babysaph
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| Date: 12-Apr-21 |
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I agree. I scrape em with a sharp razor knife
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| From: DanaC
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| Date: 13-Apr-21 |
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The only thing a dull blade is good for - sharpening practice!
X-acto blades are cheap enough, and there are enough other cheap-blade options that using a dull one is foolish 'economy'.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Anvil-18-mm-and-9-mm-Snap-Off-Knife-Set-2-Piece-86-212-0111/303711777
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| From: olddogrib
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| Date: 13-Apr-21 |
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I should have mentioned that my primary tool is a fletching remover with the guide you put against the shaft to set the angle and scrape...won't touch this stuff and I keep that edge fairly sharp by touching it up with sharpening rods occasionally.
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| From: George D. Stout
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| Date: 13-Apr-21 |
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I've cleaned many an aluminum with the sharp blade of my pocket knife. No abrasive wheels on any hollow arrow shaft for me.
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| From: Jon Stewart
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| Date: 13-Apr-21 |
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I use this Saunders Fletch stripper. Works great even on wood arrows.
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| From: Jon Stewart
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| Date: 13-Apr-21 |
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I use this Saunders Fletch stripper. Works great even on wood arrows.
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| From: msinc
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| Date: 13-Apr-21 |
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MEK, {methyl ethyl ketone} works better than acetone. As above scrape it first with a good sharp razor blade to get the heavy stuff off then go to the chemical. I too have used {still do} the Saunders stripper and it works great. Better if you keep it sharp.
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| From: msinc
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| Date: 13-Apr-21 |
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I should specify that MEK WILL take the finish off wood arrows too, but not too bad if you scrape most of the adhesive off first. It will not bother anodizing on aluminum arrows.
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| From: Live2Hunt
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| Date: 13-Apr-21 |
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I bought a fletching removal tool also (not like jon stewarts though). It has a curved blade and scrapes it off nicely.
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| From: babysaph
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| Date: 13-Apr-21 |
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I agree George. Maybe I am missing something
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| From: Zbone
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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Tip - Always used a sharp knife or razor knife, but read somewhere try a potato peeler... I tried it and like it...
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| From: Rustyspike1
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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Aluminum I through in a bottle acetone. Works great and does not effect the finish.
Rich K.
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| From: olddogrib
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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The Saunders feather stripper pictured above is the one I have. I have used many other edged instruments, both dull and sharp. I'll try the acetone trick. I've been re-fletching aluminum and carbon for 30+ years or so...this ain't my first rodeo. I just wished I knew what they put these feathers on with, so if that's all I have I will simply choose to shoot bare shafts (which I've done at 3-Ds to work on form/release) It will really get inside your buddies' heads when you outscore them, lol
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| From: Lenny
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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I’ve used a carpet tucking knive sence the sixties can’t think of anything better!
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| From: Wild Bill
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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2X the potato peeler.
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| From: loose arrow
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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I do block printing and found that the round linoleum cutter works well on my aluminum shaft for glue removal.
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| From: GF
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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“ I should specify that MEK WILL take the finish off wood arrows too...”
AND I’m pretty sure it’ll fry your brain if you’re not paying attention.... That stuff is NASTY.
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| From: stagetek
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| Date: 14-Apr-21 |
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MEK is nasty. Goof-Off is nasty. But they work. Use them outdoors, and don't do any deep breathing exercises while using either !
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