| From: 1829
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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I just picked up a really nice 45# Old Mountain Mesa II 60" hybrid longbow (3Rivers' seemingly now "discontinued" or at least is no longer stocking it; they DO have the 64" Mesa though). I currently have some 30 5/8" Goldtip 500s w/ 145 grain points I'm shooting from my ILF recurve. I "think" they may shoot okay out of the Mesa but I'll have to shoot them to see.
Any other Mesa II owners out there with similar specs with any thoughts/recommendations? My 500s weigh around 460 grain and with my 28.5" draw on a 45# bow, they're probably really close to the 10 GPI I want to keep.
Thanks in advance! Matt
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| From: 1829
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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I just picked up a really nice 45# Old Mountain Mesa II 60" hybrid longbow (3Rivers' seemingly now "discontinued" or at least is no longer stocking it; they DO have the 64" Mesa though). I currently have some 30 5/8" Goldtip 500s w/ 145 grain points I'm shooting from my ILF recurve. I "think" they may shoot okay out of the Mesa but I'll have to shoot them to see.
Any other Mesa II owners out there with similar specs with any thoughts/recommendations? My 500s weigh around 460 grain and with my 28.5" draw on a 45# bow, they're probably really close to the 10 GPI I want to keep.
Thanks in advance! Matt
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| From: Lefty38-55
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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Not so much for THAT bow, but for spine on carbon arrows and I think they might be spine heavy, if anything.
Speaking for maybe 5 of us at my Club, who hang around & shoot together on WED eves & SUN morns, where GT or other carbon chart says 'use 500s' we use 600s. Same if says '600s', we have best results with 700s.
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| From: fdp
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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Not likely to shoot worth a flip out off that bow.
You need to be at a 6 or .700. You can try to force those other arrows to work, but it's likely to cause a lot of frustration.
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| From: Wayne Hess
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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I agree with lefty & fdp A 6 or 7 hundred spine, arrow
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| From: 6bloodychunks
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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agree with the others,
600s or possibly 700s depending on the centershot measurement.
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| From: Tree
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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Only one way to find out and that is try them out, but I"m thinking you'll need a bunch more weight up front. I think a 600 would be perfect.
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| From: GF
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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Yup. 600 tops, I’d guess. Of course the good thing.... if you buy too light, you can cut them to match your DL and if you’re still light, you can add a wrap, build out your side plate, and a few other tricks to reduce your dynamic spine requirement...
Too stiff, and you have to choose between leaving then ridiculously long, or punishingly nose-heavy.
If you want to hit 10 GPP, though, I would use a spine calculator to determine which (600 or 700) is most likely to get you into that ballpark for weight. Gonna guess 600s, but it may depend “heavily” on desired arrow length
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| From: JRT51
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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How close to center is it cut? I'm curious because I thought of buying one myself. I found I needed to drop to a 700 on a 47# BamaHunter because it is cut so far from center.
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| From: fdp
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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How far a bow is or isn't cut to center is essentially irrelevant. How close to center the bow is set up to shoot is the determining factor.
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| From: JRT51
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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fdp " How far a bow is or isn't cut to center is essentially irrelevant. How close to center the bow is set up to shoot is the determining factor"
That is a good point , I never thought about it that way but I suppose the direction of the force the string imparts is the more important factor.
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| From: fdp
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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Not an original idea. I learned it from Jim Ploen.
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| From: Therifleman
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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"How far a bow is or isn't cut to center is essentially irrelevant."
Yeah its irrelevant as long as you're building out the sideplate to accomodate a weak arrow, but it becomes real relevant real fast when your arrow is too stiff and you've loaded the point up all you can and you're down to bare riser, etc. Guess as long as you have the right spined arrows or arrows on the weak side its " irrelevant";).
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| From: GF
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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“ Not an original idea. I learned it from Jim Ploen.”
Hell, Frank - you’ll listen to ANYBODY!! LOL
@John - you DO have to start within reason. That’s why I suggested that he should start with a spine calculator so he doesn’t have to attach an outboard motor to the front of his arrow to get it to bend.
You know how to tune; just hafta start with something that offers some promise of panning out at the desired all-up weight.
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| From: 1829
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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Thanks fellas for the replies. I still have six full length 500s to tinker with and I just received the field point test kit from 3R the other day. And unfortunately for my wife, the Goldtip 600s I got for her bow were WAY too stiff. So I also have a dozen full length 600s to try.
But as stated, I'll have to spend some time to stay around that 10 GPI hunting weight I desire to keep. And I believe the Mesa II is cut NOT quite to center.
Thanks again...Matt
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| From: GF
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| Date: 22-Jan-21 |
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I think with a 10 GPP target, you should be able to get there with the 600s...
I have in front of me 27 3/4” GT 600 with a nock collar, 3X5” fletch, 200 gr up front and 2” footing of 2117. My scale says about 475. Easton says the footings are 25 gr, so leave that off, add 3” of shaft and drop to 175, you should be spot on....
As long as it’ll tune for ya.
I shoot the same recipe with 500s..... but at #52....
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