I have a bear super magnum that I can not seem to get an arrow tuned to it it is marked 40#28 behind the strike plate it is marked 38. I am drawing it to 27.5 with a clicker iam shooting 500 spine beman ics bowhunters at 31in with 3 4inch feather with a weather rest i am getting consistent nock left with bare shaft but straight impact with feathers i have ranged point weight from 125 to 225 with no change in impact with bare shaft

It's you. If the arrows and bareshaft group together on a vertical line and the fletched arrows shoot well move on.

archers paradox.

archers paradox. look at the exsample and see if you can see what is going on.. it has alot to do with arrow length and spin working against each other

imo too stiff try a 600 .

A 700 would be a better place to start at 30" with 125 to 150 out front. This spine thing still isn't well understood.

I think your arrows might be too stiff as well, even at full length. Though should be getting close with 225 up front. However, it's very difficult to get off the string cleanly with a super short bow. Feathers are compensating for that. Bare shaft isn't. But, ass suggested earlier, iuf they both impact in the same place, don't worry about it.

38# under the side plate, he's pulling 27.5" so he is pulling about 37#. Even at 30" that doesn't come close to a 500 carbon shaft spine...even with 225 on the tip. 600 is pushing it on that bow.

agreed...500s are way too stiff for 38#

try a full length .700 amd then play with point weight.

Agreed 500's are too stiff. I don't know what is happening though. >>>>-----> Ken

At what distance are you shooting?

Bowmania

Way to stiff !!

They would definitely be too stiff if he cut them to an inch longer than his draw length, but he's leaving them full length (31 inches). That and 225 grains up front should be getting close, but as I said earlier, probably still too stiff. Even if you get those to fly straight, they would be extremely slow and drop quickly. Agree that 600s would be a better choice.

many of the spine charts are telling me 500 should work 3rivers spine calculator says with 225 grains i am 10lbs under spined are the charts that far off

I mostly use 700s and 800s in my bows 37- 44#. I can use 600s, but that results in long arrows and heavy tips. I think you'd find these lighter spines a bit more compatible with your bear.

i plan to deer and turkey hunt with this bow i want to stay above 400 grains closer to 450 if possible what shaft would get me there would a 1916 camo hunter with 125 point work

try a 100 gr.

are 29" with 175 are 200

you say nock left are you hiting the target on the right side of the fletch arrow?

iam sorry that should have read nock right i am a right handed shooter but they impact at the same spot as my fletched arrows nock right says to stiff but according to all the spine charts i am either good or under spined 3 rivers spine calculator says that i am 10 lbs to light with 225 grains up front. I am not new to archery and bowhunting i have been doing it for years and have set up many compounds and i am pretty good at it but iam new to recurves. I would think if i was to stiff i would still see some change in my impact as i add weight. I have been shooting at about 12 yds. could it be my release? this will be a hunting bow and i will keep my shots 20 or less

The 600 fly nice out of my 45# "Magnum 48" at my 27" draw with 125 grain field points. Although I believe the 600 is rated 15# - 35# they fly nice out of my 50# Kodiak Magnum as well.

No arrow with a .600 deflection iscrated 15 to 35. Where did that come from ?

.600 is 43lbs. Do we know yet how the arrows impact when shot at a vertical line ? What do they look like in flight?

Quit worrying about what the arrow does after it hits the target.

I don't know where these figures are coming from but the aren't close being right. Best thing to do is learn what really works by working them though a bow. 500 will work out of 60# bows at 30" arrow length. Even if cut well inside center I sure wouldn't pick a 500 for a 37# draw and 30" arrow. A Bear Super Mag is not cut inside center, add to that the super deflex of the limbs off the riser will not be optimal for performance at a given draw and you have no case for that stiff of a shaft. Charts are meaningless and you really need to learn what spine does with different arrow materials out of different bows.

my figures come from easton and beman spine charts as well as 3rivers spine calculator. gold tip also says a 500 should work at that length and point weight. my arrow all group together and hit where I aim when i do my part they do not hit to the right of my fletched arrows but they do impact nock right in the target.

Call Lancaster Archery and get some test kits, in carbon, wood and aluminum in a couple of different spines each. With conventional bows string material makes a difference also. The guys at Lancaster will be a big help and test kits will give you a lot more knowledge than spine charts.

Mountain: If your fletched and unfletched shafts are impacting in the same place, vertical line, the offest nock on the bare shafts could very well be due to a release problem at 12 yards, as you imply.

You really need to go to 20 yards. At 12 yards 38 pounds might not bend a .500 enough to created separation. You should see it at 20. Think if this bow and your compound, if 38 pounds shot a .500, what compound arrow would a 65 pound bow shoot? I see lots of compounders shooting .400 at 60-65.

When it comes to charts, you really have to be careful of input. Especially when it comes to 'cut to center'. Bad in bad out.

One of the first things I check is the strike plate thickness. I wouldn't think this is a problem, but nock an arrow and line up the string and limb, the arrow should be slightly outboard left of that plane for a right handed shooter.

You're creating an experiment. In any experiment there's a control. In tuning our 'control' is the fletched arrow or 'shooting the line'. Shooting the line is good if you have an aiming problem, but it won't tell you much about nocking point. Since you're pretty new, I'd advise shooting the line.

In my mind and the upper floors are pretty empty, bare shaft plane (ing) is the way to tune, because it tells you eveything. It even tells you if your bare shaft is hitting the shelf and kicking up, making you think you nocking point is too low. Nothing else does that as far as I know.

www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/basic-tuning

All that said 48 inches is a mighty short bow for someone who is newish and might not have the greatest release.

Bowmania

I've seen a lot of frustration with those 3Rivers spine calculators. They don't take personal dynamics into account and are, at best, a starting place. Three people, shooting the very same bow at the same weight and draw length can need three completely different setups due to personal dynamics. And that is with all else being equal. Do not put a lot of faith in a one size fits all chart that simply can not fit all in a sport so dynamic as archery. Spine isn't really as complicated as some would have you believe. It's a simple process but it will be different from one archer to the next.

Could be wrong but I believe the Goldtip designation of 1535 on their 600 label and 3555 on their 500 is the weight range they are good for again I could be wrong.

If the Goldtip actually has a deflection.600 measured over a 28" span that would be a 46lb. spine rating.

I bought a 600 spine gold tip to try out of a 43lb bear takedown. B50 string, cut to center etc.. a 30 in arrow took 175 up front. I have 12 sets of limbs all around that weight +- a few pounds and i had to change the point weight by 50 grains either direction when trying different. The 500 is probably too stiff but if hitting where you aim and flight looks good with fletching i dont see a problem.

Thanks for all the help i think have found the solution to my problem first let me say that i am not a total novice at some of this i have been a compound finger shooter for some time so i do understand form and spine but for compound shooters most of the time the charts are dead on. I had some easton game getters 500s here so i tried them, to start i was still getting nock right in the target so i removed the weather rest and put on a bear hair rest i adjusted my brace hieght about a 1/4 inch to 8.5 inches changed my anchor point from the corner of my mouth to the middle finger to the crease behind my nostril and bang got rid of the nock right impact. i dont know if the aluminum is more forgiving than the carbon because i am still shooting a 500 spine arrow but it is working good if i can get good broadhead flight it will be in the north ga mountains chasing spring gobblers

Getting a bit lost with these spine calculations if a 600 is rated for a 46lb. bow what is a 340 rated for?

the way i understand spine is that it is fluid and changes with length of shaft and point weight but i am no expert

Ivory. The smaller the number, the less deflection, i.e., the higher/stiffer the spine. A .340 is about 92-94# spine. That doesn't mean the bow needs to be 90# plus. Depends on draw length, amount the bow is cut to of past center, point weight, shooter characteristics, etc

What Orion said.

Ok if your arrows fly good with the feathers, don't worry about bear shafting. I shoot a Super mag. 48 and I draw 30 inches. I don't get string pinch and with my 500 Ted Nugent pink tiger strip arrows. They fly great. Now that said, I did have trouble when I first got my bow. It's 45lbs. at 28" . My bear shaft were nock left. So I took one and cut 1/4" off the end and now I have a bear shaft that hits nock right. Also the weather rest might be part of your problem. I use a Bear shelf rest. Just a FYI I also shoot 400 and 340 arrows out of that little bow. When I shoot the heave arrows I also shoot a heaver broadhead. the fly good and really make the bow quitter. They also fly a little slower to. If I Can be of any other help to you just PM me here. Take care stay safe, God Bless. Buckhunter

thanks buckhunter

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