does any one out there paper tune a stick bow? ive never heard of anyone doing this but i dont know why that is? maybe this is a dumb question but i cant think of a reason not to, other than arrow flight is possibly just slow enough that you can see what the arrow is doing?

Lots of folks have done it for years.

Buckeye -

I have, and and I trust the results. However, a couple of bare shafts are easier to carry (and cheaper) than a paper frame.

Viper out.

Ive paper tuned, but my go to tuning method is bareshaft. I pick a calm day and work back to 30yds--- when my bareshaft is hitting w my fletched at this distance it is good enough for what i do with the bow. A weak or stiff bareshaft will really peel off to the left or right respectively ( im a lefty) at that distance leaving no doubt what adjustments are needed.

You need to make sure you are far enough away from the paper for the paradox to settle out of the arrow.

John, I believe you mean the flexing of the arrow.

Yes.

Today I paper tuned my fletched shafts and got them to makes near perfect holes and fly great. I then tried the same thing with bare shaft and the bare shaft flys very nick high. What am I doing wrong?

I paper tune wood arrows.

Most likely your nocking point is too high. Simple rule feathers correct mistakes. Bare shafts can't lie. >>>>-----> Ken

I spent a lot of time paper tuning my bows early on but now do the simpler bare shaft versus fletched shaft comparison.

Nock high in flight is often the string nocking point is too high as 2 bears points out. I've also seen it when the string nocking point is really low and the shaft bounces off the rest. That was a fun head scratcher for a while. I've also seen some interesting nock low or high flights due to the arrow slipping along the string away from the nock so now always nock the arrow between two nock points.

Jeff

I do both. Just my 2 cents but if you've never done any of this before I think doing both learns you how to bareshaft. Paper is easier for the novice to learn how to make adjustments and see immediate results. Do both at the same time comparing and learning from what you see. Most fellas on here pretty much have an arrow dialed up before they even shoot it. They are just double checking themselves.

As I understand arrow tuning, a nock high or low flight is due to the nock end of the arrow bouncing/touching the shelf/rest. What you are looking for is a nock point where the nock end of the arrow clears the shelf/rest. Therefore, a high or low tear in the paper could be a nock point either too high or too low.

Moose Tooth, Instead of moving two nock points to determine proper location, do you use only one? Which, above or below?

If you want to paper tune and do it properly you need to get on the Easton web site and down load a copy of their tuning guide.

The distance that you tune at is important. You can get into a situation where if you don't like the results just back up 2 steps. They will change.

And keep in mind regardless of the tuning method you can only tune as well as you can shoot.

fdp thanks for that info want to try paper tuning.

Thanks for the replies. I got back to bare shaft paper tuning and was able to get bullet holes just by dropping my nock 1/8 inch. I thought maybe I had it figured out but when I go to shoot at 10-15 yards I am still pretty nock high with a bare shaft. I chased that nock around all morning. its driving me nuts.

So did you download the Easton tuning guide ?

fdp, I shoot 3 fingers under so I need to move both nocks at the same time. (I don't use brass nocks as they can slow the arrow ~5ft/sec and I've run into some added noise on some bows). Not sure where I learned it, but I tie my nocks using serving and the knots I use allow me to spin them on the serving like a nut on a bolt. Not a good long term fix but once I'm tuned, I'll use a drop of super glue to keep them from shifting. If it seems really stable I'll sometimes retie the nocks on with a tighter knot.

I agree with Sparky on using tuning to learn about consistency in your shooting technique. It can be pretty frustrating when a tuned bow one day will not be tuned the next day even though variables (brace, nock position, arrow, draw length, etc) are constant. As hard as it is to admit, it was often the shooter that was not tuned. For myself, I found the variations in draw length was my biggest challenge.

Jeff

Paper tuning with wood is all that works. No matter how straight or how "matched" they are, the inconsistencies of moisture and in the wood itself makes bare shafting results untrustworthy. If you doubt that, shoot a dozen matched woods without fletching and try to tune. Just won't work.

Actually bare shafting wood shafts works just fine.

Dan Quillian taught me that back in the '60's. If the arrows have enought moisture in them to affect bare shaft tuning then they weren't properly dried and sealed when they were made.

Yes. I did download the Easton Running guide. I got a lot of use I’ll information from it. .

Yes. I did download the Easton Running guide. I got a lot of use I’ll information from it. .

Yes. I did download the Easton Running guide. I got a lot of use I’ll information from it. .

Sorry for the repeat posts. Maybe my finger is too heavy or something. I’ll try not to do it again. I’m the meantime, I still can’t figure out this mock high thing

What does the Easton guide tell you?

Most of the information in the Easton guide has to do with shooting off an adjustable arrow rest. Bah oof off a shelve . I know how to adjust the nick height but no matter where it is it shoots nock high. Either too high or too low and probably bounces off the shelve. Just can locate the sweet spot. Actually I can get it to pinch bullet holes I paper at 5-8 feet. But still way nock high at 15 yards. I’ll probably give up the paper tuning. This is with carbon arrows. I don’t know how to tune carbon as this is my first try. I’m going back to wood

The fact that the Easton guide is related to elevated rests really doesn't matter. The dynamic reactions are the same.

There has to be a spot that works. Are the arrows flying nock high? If so, move the arrow down to 90 degrees from the rest and start shooting. Raise it until the problem goes away. And consider it could be your finger position on the string related to the nock.

I too love wood arrows. But in this situation I would have to make those things shoot just for general principle. Then I'd go back to wood.

Just don't get frustrated and flustered.

Hah. I know I’m gonna get them to work somehow or I’ll go nuts tying

Hah. I know I’m gonna get them to work somehow or I’ll go nuts tying

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