So, last year my Wallace Partner had new 50# @ 31" limbs and I was shooting 32" 400 spine carbons with 170 grains up front. These bare shaft tuned well. One limb delaminated and Wes sent me a new set of limbs this past spring. These limbs are 51# @31". I bare shafted he 400 spine with 170 point up front, and it went curving to the left off the target. I dropped as low as 125 grains up front and still showed weak. So, I got 340's. Bare shafting those with 170's up front show too stiff. I got some 200, 225 and 250 grain points and was surprised that I finally got good bareshaft and bareshaft planeing with the 250 grain point. This puts me at 12 gpp. I can probably cut at most 1/2" off the 400 spine and get the 125 grains points to work, but that would put me well under 10 gpp. This long draw crap sucks for setting up a bow and arrow combo.

Each bow, even though closely matched in weight/draw, can act very different. But, the proof is in the tuning so use what works. My arrows vary and I can shoot different setups from several bows for sure, but it doesn't matter to me if they are 8 gpp or 13 gpp if they shoot the line and fly perfectly. I'll adapt to them. Wallace bows are pretty fine weapons.

Your draw length isn't the problem, the problem is that you aren't using all the resources available to you to tune the bow/arrow combination.

I assume you are left handed based on your description of weak arrow reaction.

What arrow do you want to shoot? It's as simple as that. Pick the arrow based on whatever you base it on and make it shoot.

It's just that simple.

Doupt!! Sorry, I said left above, I meant to the right. I am right handed. I am basicaly stuck shooting a 31-1/2 to a 32" arrow. Like I said, the 340's now shoot great with 250 up front, but 612 grains of arrow just seems alot. I can probably get the 400's to shoot, but I think I would need to drop to an extreamly light broadhead to shoot good. I used Stu's calculator and according to that the 340's @32 with 250 up front are way, way too weak and the 175's are perfect. Not so for me.

Have you done anything to your strike plate? And does your centershot measurement match the number you use for the calculator?

MP

I have not done anything with it, I did try adding to it to get the 400's to fly good with 145 grain points. But, I had to add quite a bit to start straightening them out. Honestly, I should measure the centershot, I am just using what is on the calculator for a wallace recurve.

If the arrow is showing weak, add thickness to the strike plate. Start using some tape and keep adding layers until the arrow shoots the line, then remove the tape and measure its thickness, use a piece of leather that thickness as a strike plate. It might take only a couple of pieces, you might need quite a few pieces, but you will know when its correct.

Bob

Also to add to what's already been said. You mau need to look at changing the spine or even the brand of arrow to get the weight, and spine variables lined out. I also have a longish draw, although not as severe as yourself, so I know your pain. Sometimes you can get away with adding a collar to up the weight if you change spine, because the gpi drops(generally) with weaker shafts. Or try different collars, half outs or combinations of tip stuff to get what you need. Just because components are of a certain brand doesn't mean thats all they will work on. Anyhow, don't have to much fun researching and playing with different components. OH! also don't limit yourself to just tip weight. play with the nock end also.

Hutch

aromakr, Yes, I did try to add to the strike plate for the 400 spine arrows. But, I stopped after adding a little over 1/8" and still showed weak. I have the 340's shooting good, but they are heavy.

Hutch, I have not play'd with the nock end. I could try that with the 400's to stiffen them up, thanks.

whatever it takes to get that recipe back to perfect, enjoy!

Hutch

Basically, I'd be looking at how I'm gripping the bow and if I'm torquing it. Grip plays a huge part in tuning. I can make a perfectly tuned shaft show weak or stiff just by changing how I grip the bow. And a .340 spined shaft with test much tip weight, 250 grains up front, but a .400 with only 125 grains is weak, something is off. And I bet it's your grip.

I would certainly not shy away from 12gpp. I pesonaly shoot that all the time. That will cdrtainly be great for hunting, and easy on your bow for practice shooting.

I don't really grip the bow. I wrap my forefinger around the front and let the grip push against the meaty part of the side of my lifeline. Just tried again last night, yup, 250 grains up front gets me a straight bare shaft at the target. If I have to go through all the different carbon arrow manufacturers arrows to get me down to 10 GPP, it would cost a fortune that I don't have. They fly good at 12 gpp, but they really drop at the long ranges. To get the 400's to work I would be shooting a 9 gpp or less arrow which would be fast, but just too light. I also did not want to start having to add all kinds of extra weights to my shafts to increase the front end, but looks like I have to.

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