I just finished fixing a couple stone hammer handles. One is Osage and the other is black walnut sandwiched between some white oak. I did not want to use the whole stave of oak cause it is so nice for a bow. I built a longbow years ago with this wood, but backed it with sinew. It had a kinda sorta "D" limb design in cross section. It was a little light in poundage, this was the reason for the sinew. I gave it to a hunting buddy who still uses it to this day.

I referenced TBBI for other bow woods. These are my questions, comments, concerns.

1) I am planning on a selfbow design of 66"NTN x 1.75 wide limbs (flat) @ 28". I would like to build without a sinew backing, but worried about chrystaling.

2) If I add 20% more limb width. It reads like I will gain 2-3oz. of mass. also lose 2-3# of cast. But will create less set. So 1.75(20%)=0.35+1.75=2.1 wide limb.

3) I also read @66" a 2" wide to mid-limb and tapper to the tip should be for a 70# bow. @66" a 1.75" wide to mid-limb and tapper to the tip should be for a 55# and under bow.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks John

Here is the osage handle. Hope they last a little longer than the hickory store bought ones. John

Start with the bow long and wide and decrease width and length as the design and tillering process allows.

It's always easier to take off material to make weight than it is to put it back on.

Personally for bows from those woods I'm a fan of limbs 2" wide at least 2/3's of the limbe length and then taper to finished nock width. However. some folks seem to be allergic to that design.

Oh my. I certainly am. If I even get downwind of a selfbow with limbs wider than 1 3/4", I get hives and go into anaphylaxis. Same thing with board flat bellies. I gotta go, I don't feel so good all of a sudden ;^)

Nice osage handle on that hammer. I'm working on one now too, very old head. Been in the family a long, long time.

I can't speak to making bows, but those are 2 really nice handles there. wpab

John does the Osage have more or less hand shock? Lol . They look great by the way! Arvin

I can't follow all of this. But I've made several white oak bows and they are practically bullet proof and it does not have to be backed. 2" wide is fine. Jawge

Beautiful handles, I do some and like Osage and Hickory the best, walnut don't seem to hols up as well but beautiful, yours probably will sandwiched in white oak. Nice work. Pappy

Well I am disappointed in the the oak staves. I don't know what happened, just had some deep checks. They were in my shop rafters in MI. till our move to AZ. Where they were kept in the rafters of a tool shed for four years. Cooked in the AZ heat. Then moved to OK. where they were stored outside in a wood shed till my shop was built.

So I decided to cut the ends off and rip cut according to the annual growth ring thickness. Hope I cut these correctly. I cut them parallel, Trying not to cut bias or lateral. Got some lams. around 55" long.

Now I am looking at my ash staves with the same issues. Although there is some separation at a couple annual growth rings. I built bows from both these trees. Trying to savage what I can. It would be a shame to just use the for firewood / smoker.

Couple more questions, comments & concerns. Please any help would be appreciated.

1) Is there a good reference for which laminated bow woods are better for tension or compression)?

2) Should the ash just be ripped into 3/8 arrow material or would it be good for lamination's also?

bias cut

Kinda parallel cut

Ash

This is gonna be good...

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