nearing the end of my latest bow build,

and am torn on what clearcoat to use.

i greatly prefer rattle cans over wipe on.

so whats your favorite durable rattle can clearcoat?

try K2 spray,, there is a post about this finish on leatherwall

sorry,, that;s 2K spray ,

For final finish! I prefer satin helmsman spar varnish urethane, indoor outdoor. I love the way it lays down and the whole look about it. And easy for anybody to touch up in the near future. JF

Same as bodymanbowyer

Lots of finishes will work. With spray cans I’ve used lacquer, polycrylic, varathane, helmsman spar varnish, auto clear coat, krylon clear gloss, Spray Max 2K and probably some I forgot.

If you want a nice gloss the key is to prep well, wet sand between coats, wet sand the final coat progressing up to 2000 grit and polish with a ultra fine polish.

If you want a nice satin you can use most any finish for the first few coats but you should still wet sand up to the last coat. For the final coat I use a matte finish generally Kylon or Rustoleum. Don’t put lacquer over other finishes but you can put other finishes over lacquer. If you want a finish similar to the old Bighorns or Black Widows, Minwax Polycrylic goes on with a touch of splatter, giving a nice look.

For most bows I use gloss Spray Max. If I want a satin I just wet sand up to 800 or 1000 and use a light application of rubbing compound or rottenstone. Smooth as a baby’s behind and very durable.

Regardless of what you choose follow the instructions on recoat and drying time. If you try to hurry things with some finishes and redcoat too soon the under layers will not cure properly and will remain soft for a long time. The finish will be easily marked by the bowstring or quiver if it doesn’t cure properly.

Aren't all non water based finishes lacquer?

I've been using this for several years after seeing some of the glass bow builders using it. It dries crazy fast. I can apply 4 coats under 30 minutes. The fumes are bad so I do it outside. I've had zero problems with it. It's around $7 at the auto parts store.

hmmmm, i may have to look into that wheel paint.

Babysaph - no. Most non water-based finishes are enamel. You'll have to look for lacquer. Krylon and Rustoleum make it but my favorite is Deft.

I have always used Helmsman minwax It comes in Gloss or saton and it is very durable.

I use 3 coats of Helsman Spar Urethane. Jawge

VHT x2

Helmsman spar urethane is what I use.

You may have trouble with poly drying on oily woods if you used them. The auto clearcoat I use is from O'reillys , dries quick on everything I've sprayed it on, and no probs with durability .

Think it's same as the VHT but different name.

VHT matte for sure X3

You might want to wipe on a thin coat of dewaxxed shellac first if it is an oily wood. It will seal the oil in the wood and will bind with just about every finish i am aware of (not sure about 2 part epoxy like Awlcoat). It will also make the grain really pop visually.

i used the helmsman spar urethane :)

worked very well!

6bloodychunks,

Sir, to post that photo and not elaborate is cruel, immoral and criminal in 48 states.

That is the most jaw-dropping gorgeous riser I've laid eyes on. Details, please!

Deft

Deft

Nice bow 6 bloody.

thank you lol

snow crow...... thank you very much for the compliment.

but its just a red oak board bow, with a thin piece of wenge, and a piece of spalted tamarind for the handle. and i did tiny tips with wenge tip overlays.

64" 36# @ 26"

i posted more specifics,and a few incarnations of it on my "veneers on a board bow" thread.

ive had it finished and then sanded it back to wood 3 times lol

for various reasons lol

just finished putting the last coat of poly on some surewood shafts for it :)

JR the reason you don't spray lacquer over enamel is lacquer thinner is much hotter than enamel reducers. The lawyer thinner in the paint will soften enamel and cause it to lift and wrinkle up under your lo aquifer finish.

Gods of the spell checks you win!

If the wood is of the oily variety, your undercoat hast to be lacquer. Enamels or poly's will not dry on the oily woods.

Bob

I use spray on shellac, Zinsser's. Drys fast. can't stand slow drying finishes. May try some VHT nest.

Shellac works well as an undercoat/sealer on oily woods but it won't fill open grain in the wood. Also make sure you get clear shellac, not the amber color.

I use both colors.3 to 4 coats will fill open grain if you bone the bow wood before applying. Works for me.

I wouldn't use colors on any bow with white fiberglass. I put Tru Oil on white glass and after lots of coats, but not as many as I wanted, the white took on a slight amber hue. The most common shellac is orange and it's designed to give a warm cast to the wood.

Filling open pores depends on the wood. I wouldn't bone a bow's riser because that compresses the fibers and make it more dense but doesn't really address the open grain. About the only place I've heard about folks using bones (or any other hard item like bottles) on wood is on ash baseball bats to compress the surface (we used to do that with a steel rod when I was a kid) but that isn't something that you'll see done by folks working on furniture. Sometimes you can just spray any finish on and wet sand while other times you have to build up the finish. Shellac is like lacquer, it takes a lot to build it up. Or you could use a sanding sealer before finishing but that brings it own troubles on refinishing wood.

I talking self bows, and sinew backed bows. Fiber glass bows I use Min Poly. or True oil. My method works fine, when boning ,and spraying shellac, and I also coat with wax.I also finish self bows with a mix of Bee's wax, turpentine,and linseed oil.Apply with heat ,and let the wood suck up as much as it wants.I have used the boning shellac method on Hickory,Birch, Walnut, Osage, Hornbeam,Ash, Maple,Bamboo,Cherry,Black Locust,Elm, and other bow woods with very good results. For me it has been time tested ,and true.

Helsman for this refurbished Pearson Silencer takedown!

Have used a number of different sprays and all seem to work. But recently have traded the Helmsman finish for the VHT Wheel Spray. It goes on flawlessly. Follow the instructions and its nearly foolproof. Very smooth and very tough finish. Was recommended by a bowyer friend of mine. Works like a charm!!!

VHTx6, and for arrows as well, easy, drys really fast, tough and nice satin sheen!

oohhhh i may have to try the vht for some shafts :)

I've used the VHT for the last few years and never had any issues of it coming off. I'll be putting it on a new bow next week with no worries about it.

VHT is all I use these days. Comes in gloss or matt depending on what finish you like.

6bloodychunks,

Thanks for the info.

It's the spalted tamarind that has my heart aflutter. Still can't stop staring at it...

i feel the same way lol thats the reason i chose it lol

ill probably use it for my next bow too :)

Osage Outlaw - Where does one find that VHT High Temperature Wheel Paint, auto parts store like NAPA or auto body specialty shop?... Thanks...

Auto parts stores like autozone, advanced auto, etc.

Thank you sir...

I like Helmsman Spar. I use gloss because it dries harder, then I hit it with a final coat of satin.

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