Have some razorheads on old supercedars. I have the main blades shaving sharp but having a bugger of a time getting the bleeders sharp. How many of you keep the bleeders in and if so how do go about sharpening them?

I've used a belt sander to get the bleeders sharp, but I'm not really impressed with the bleeders. No disrespect to Mr. Bear,but any time I've ever shot anything with the bleeders they became dislodged and actually were in a position to impede penetration. I use them as a two blade- they work just fine that way.

I have a small file I used to use on them .

Razorheads are my favorite heads...Killed a lot with them...I never use the bleeders....Only 2 blades for me 100% of the time.

I use a fine grain stone like an Arkansas stone.

And I oil the stone when sharpening.

Razorheads are one of my favorite. I shoot them as a 2 blade and they work very well.

I use Bear Razors with Bleeders always. I sharpen the Bleeders with the same flat 10" Diamond Hone that I sharpen my skinning knives on. Just hold them on the desired angle with your index finger and thumb and run them down the hone 3 passes per edge side. Works great.

I use a stone, but seem to have more luck with 300 grit machinist sand paper. I just do a few strokes on this to remove any rust more than anything.

I don't use the bleeders, never saw the need. FWIW

I keep the bleeders out. Take bleeder out and place in vice grip and work on with rada.

If a Bear Razorhead curls on a rib hit, it was already partially bent before you shot it. I've had them penetrate a deer's spine and stay shootable afterward. A deer rib is certainly no match for any steel broadhead. Fred Bear killed the largest game in the world with his Razorheads.

I've used them for over half a century with zero issues, so I will keep using them when I have them. Easy to sharpen the inserts with a small steel and stone, like the main blade, it's about the angle and pressure.

I have used the handle from an exacto knife to hold the bleeder for sharpening.

Mount the blade into the head and use the arrow for a handle. Use a pocket size diamond hone or other fine grit stone and carefully run along the side of the head to stroke the auxiliary blade. You just need to pay attention to the angles. The aux blade will get quite sharp. Sharp enough to slice you finger. Ask me how I know that.

bluesman, I'm thinking you're right on the shoulder bone. A glancing blow on the opposite side can bend about any two blade. Stuff happens. ;)

I had a Magnus head curl like that on a mule deer one time.

Stuff happens.

razorheads hold up pretty good when shot at haybales- but I have bent quite a few on animals. They're a good head, but as mentioned- not overly sturdy.

this is the head that killed the pig in the post prior- it performed flawlessly until it met the off side shoulder. I could straighten it out and reuse it, but it would never be as strong as it once was- so it went the the place where all my bent heads go- in a coffee can in my shop.

I had a Zwickey Eskimo's tip bend on me once shooting at a squirrel. Missed the squirrel and hit a rock. Rocks don't like broadheads.

I have seen two bear heads curl on bone. That is 2 out of hundreds of kills.

I always sharpened the inserts, never was satisfied with how they came from the factory. Use a stone and push the insert as flat as possible as you work the edge down actually bending the insert some to get the angle flatter. Do the same to the other side, then just strope the insert back and forth lightly. The idea is to get a real thin edge. Fast and eay once you get the feel of it. Start with med grit and finish with fine and few stropes on your leather belt. Shot many elk and deer with them no problem. (I push down and use a circular motion on the stone.)

I with you Riverwolf. I don’t use bleeders but like to add a little weight.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_aEZ2CBabi8 Check out byrons way of thinking on what sharpe is.

"I shot XYZ and the head bent" Well the animal died, and you recovered it and was able to find the head? Head worked just fine. Ive never seen any head that said you could just keep on reusing it after you shot an animal. That's not the point. Point is, dead animal.

Everybody Loves a Parade...Bear Razorhead w/Bleeder 2 weeks ago...4finger

Same set up different Critters...Same Evening :)...4finger

Great pic.

Fred had a lot right, but his assertion the bleeder blades increase penetration has been disproven. I will never again use bleeder blades in razor heads. If the function properly they do not increase penetration. When they malfunction, and they do...I had one dislodge, but not break. It turned so 1 edge was 90 degrees to the arrow. It turned what should have been a passthrough on a deer into about 6 inches of penetration. I was lucky to recover the animal. 2 holes put more blood on the ground than 1.

Thanks for the tips guys. Think I'll leave the bleeders out for now. These heads are actually some of the easier heads to file sharpen IMO. Looking forward to putting them to work.

4FINGER, what you waiting on? Looks like lots of pictures but not much shooting. Waiting for a bull? Beautiful pictures BTW.

Bugle-up...Just waiting till he shows up in the daylight hahaha...He never did...But its all good...sitting 20ft up a tree puts you that much closer to God...:)...4finger

They are not 'soft', they are just not as hard as some others. They are not knives that need harder steel, and history shows exactly how well they work. Personal opinion is fun but provenance is better.

I thought the bleeders were intentionally make to break off if they hit bone, so as not to become lodged an stop penetration.

They are all I hunt with. No bleeders and sharpened with a file.

A very small amount of hot melt on the bleeder where it snaps to the broadhead works just fine, or you can use a drop of super glue , also.

George sorry but softer than most heads out there by todays standards and still soft 40 plus years ago by standards back than. Shawn

You guys can believe what you want about the bleeders. I am quite certain mine were installed properly when it dislodged, but failed to break, impeding penetration. To say it is "engineered to break when it hits bone" is quite a stretch. The manufacturer could not know the arrow speed, arrow weight, density of tissue, directional force of impact, etc for each and every shot. To think this 10 cent piece of steel knows to break every time it hits bone is a bit of blind faith.

I have used the razorhead both ways, and I'm on the fence about it really doing anything significant. The head is well built and excellent for deer and pigs. The last deer I shot with the razorhead, the bleeder was rolled up bad, though it also lodged in the offside shoulder contacting bone.

-Bones

A friend shot a spike elk dead center in the forehead in on off shot. I dug the Bear head out before we packed it out. It was buried between 3 and 4 inches and the wooden shaft sheared flushed. The bleeder blade was fully intact. For whatever that’s worth. He also killed a couple of nice muley bucks with more traditional lung shots without the inserts shearing off.

All this razorhead jibber jabber is making me want to get some together and go shoot something with them.

I use them a lot and manage to kill something every year with them and I always use the bleeder. I think it enhances the penetration by stopping arrow pinch. I've shot stuff with them since the 60s. There is no head that is any better I have had Zwickeys bend ,Magnus , Woodsmen ,Simmons they all can bend but they still will do the job .

Fred Bear always used them, they where made to be used with the main blade. Bear designed the bleeder and used it always when he hunted. You can't argue with his success. Good Luck and good hunting Buckhunter.

I thought Fred Bear said in one of his videos that the bleeder blade was designed to create a larger entry hole to assist in a better blood trail. And also to flex off of bone while passing through. Reason for being thin. I had the bleeder blade break/come out during pass through and also stayed in during pass through. I guess it all depends on what the broadhead comes in contact with during pass through.

All I know is if I shoot and hit in the lungs and hart area I don't worry about bent broad head tips. You only have to worry about bent tips if you hit bone. I know muzzy makes broad heads that will shoot through bone. But I think you have to be shooting a heavy bow, 60 lbs or more. Good luck and good hunting.

Here is a rare Bear Razorhead I'd like to find.

I have a bunch of bears but the bleeders seem to loose and so I don’t trust them. Can I put a dab of glue at the ends where they “lock” in the cereal or will that cause other issues? I trust them but fear when ahoy they will be loose and effect flight if the bleeder is off center at the shot. Anyone else have that happen. The bleeders are all new and the heads are unshot. I have some screw in SS onea and the bleeders lick in or click in like I assume there supposed to do.

The bleeder was created to open a slightly wider path for the shaft to pass through thereby slightly increasing penetration. The bleeder was made from thin steel so that it would sheer off on a bone hit.

If someone was to tool up and make licensed razorhead copies.......I would buy them.

I have a bunch sitting in a bin. I might end up using them in place of my Snuffers.

shb, they would go broke in short order.

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