So I am knew to this ILF stuff but I notice that no matter if I turn to knobs in or out it doesn't change the weight of my bow. I have noticed that the limbs are spot on what they say they are but I am not seeing an adjustment.

Unstring it, snap the limbs in and snug both top and bottom, then string it, back out a turn and measure tiller. shalom

Thanks

Thanks. Then what to reduce or add weight?

Dr. J.R.,

Limbs will only adjust about 10%. If you have 30# limbs, you can expect them to adjust from 28.5 # to 31.5#--it's more of a percentage thing. So... not much at all.

If you have 60# limbs, you can expect from about 57# to 63".

The DAS connection on you Dalaa will allow for more adjustment.

never turn limb bolts when your bow is strung

No more than 4-5 turns out from snug. Shalom

That's what I'm saying. I'm not seeing any adjustment.,

Your sensitivity fails you then, if you can’t feel #2 difference.

I don't see it on my scale

Are you loosening the locks on the belly side of the riser? If not, then you're not adjusting anything.

Are you sure you draw the same length?

I bet the super curves don’t follow the same rules since they gain their weight in the front end of the draw. Just a guess. A mechanical scale might not show much of a change.

I shoot ILF most of the time. I never try and adjust the pull weight. Just set your tiller and shoot. If you want more or less weight, buy a set of limbs.

I'm beginning to see that deerhunter. Yea I'm sure I'm drawing the same weight

Babysaph- I’m pretty new to ILF as well. My best friend has been into it for a while, and he told me “if you are getting an ILF so that you can have adjustable weight on your limbs, you’ll be disappointed” He’s 100% correct, that’s not really what it is for. ILF is nothing more than a limb connection. It does offer a lot of options in tunability, including adjusting tiller using the limb bolts, and a slight change in draw weight more for a tuning aspect.

For that, I’m LOVING ILF!

I notice the weight change to a certain length of limb to increases and decreases in riser length .

Yup, you won't see much weight change by adjusting the bolts on an ilf bow. The adjustment is for adjusting tiller.

JR mention something. When you adjust tiller or weight, you have to unstring the bow, untighten the bolt opposite the limb bolt, and then you can turn the limb bolt.

In addition, some riser have a maximum with one ture out. To be more specific, snap the limbs in place turn the limb bolts all the way down and then one turn out. That's the starting point. Don't think all are this way though.

Bowmania

Todd, I think that’s part of the issue as well. You said “don’t think all are this way though”

All ILF risers are not the same. Hardware varies. Some risers have a max of one turn out, some don’t. And a lot of these risers do not even come with any kind of instruction to let you know the parameters.

So, if you buy a riser that has no instruction, and there’s nobody to call, I’d do my best to just find the middle ground, then adjust for tiller, and lock her down. Again, and weight adjustment should be made with different limbs, not tiller bolts.

Changing draw weight isn’t necessary to tune an arrow, lots of other ways to do that.

Well I was thinking I could adjust the weight up or down about 5 Pounds to help with my surgery. I have a DAS riser I am using with the plates . I bought a win win Black Wolf riser but don't like the sight window and and the light weight of it so went back to the DAS. I put a 41 lb set of Morrison 6 limbs on it thinking I could back it off a few pounds and work up from there. As for tiller I've never adjusted tiller on any takedown bow I've owned . If fact I wouldn't know how to. So what does adjusting the tiller really do for the performance of the bow? Disappointed in WV. I might as well just put my old 40 pound limbs on the bow. Lol

Playing with tiller yesterday I found that it affected relative arrow performance of different shafts...current tune favors arrows with heavier FOC...making bow less twitchy.

Thoughts?

BS -

If the limb bolt heads are moving when you turn them, the weight is changing. If they don't, something is very wrong. Have to ask, you do know the difference between the bolt head and the locking screw, right?

jk -

Moving the limb bolts not only changes draw weight, but the pre-load, and therefore the dynamic spine of the arrow. Adding weight to the arrow head would require loosening the limb bolts and vice versa.

Viper out.

Some ILF limbs don't change much. Borders and Morrison Max 6 don't give you 10%. I have 2 sets of Max 6 limbs. They are marked for 2 turns out. Down tight they go from 44.5# to 46# and 49.5# to 50.5#

I was hoping for the 10% but just not so for mine.

Yea I know the difference in the screws. I just think its my Hanson scale. Must be bad.

Gee Whiz! You're using a hanging Hanson scale? Might want to try a hanging digital scale to see what's going on.

:^)

Viper...I think you confirmed my point. And I'm not paying attention to weight, just elevation, groups and flight.

Yep. A Hanson scale. I’m old school. Lol. Guess I’m going to have to break down and get one. Digital is just one more think to break lol

I see that the scale like I have is twice as much as the digital one at Lancaster. Wonder what that means

Imma be upset if this new fancy dancy digital scale show my bow weights the same as my old Hansen Scale

I generally keep my limbs 2.5-3 turns out.

Not sure but I don't think you're supposed to run an ILF set-up screwed all the way in. And I'm not sure I trust it 5 turns out. (*Probably* safe but I like a larger margin.)

I feel most comfortable between 1-4 turns out, so not too much adjustment.

The good news is, you don't need expensive limbs for indoor 20 yard shooting and form work. Unless you define a specific need for good (expensive) limbs, like for hunting or long-range target work, a pair of 'entry level' limbs will serve. Or two, or three.

Add a second riser, that gains or loses 6-7 pounds, and you have a lot of versatility to play with.

When I move my limb bolts in or out after I correct tiller I can feel the weight difference. Shooting 40-45 pounds .......

So I went to my buddies archery shop and used his newfangled digital .scale and lo,and behold its came out the same at my old Hanging Hansen. Saved myself some money. Cha Ching.

Send the limbs back, they sold you defective ones.

What?

Physics dictates that as soon as you start turning the limb bolts out you are reducing the draw weight of a bow.My ILF bow will reduce from 40 to 37 lbs turning the limb bolts out three full turns.

BS,

Go back and reread what Bill Strayer wrote. Some of the super recurves change draw weight VERY little in the sweet spot of the draw curve. If another inch (or three) of draw length hardly changes the draw weight, four turns of the limb bolt on an ILF isn't going to do much either. There may be 10% weight change within the adjustment range on a conventional ILF limb, but not on a super recurve ILF limb.

I don't think there is anything wrong with your riser or limbs, or with your scales (as you already determined).

I've read that tiller adjustment is more effective with longer bows than shorter ones.

Agree?

I'd suspect that tiller becomes more important as the bow gets shorter.

Ken, I don't agree (totally) with your explanation.

Have you been able to verify this with a Border Hex 7-8.0 or a Morrison Max 5 or 6 set of limbs? If not, I think you will be surprised.

In both instances (tightening the limb bolts or drawing the string back further) you are merely flexing the limb more and increasing the draw weight. In one instance you move the lever at the butt end, and in the other instance you move the lever at the limb tip. I can't see it being a whole lot more complicated than that. Yes, the angle of the limb base changes a little, but I don't see that creating a whole new animal.

If the draw weight on a super recurve (at the sweet spot) changes very little in a three inch range (as in the case of Border Hex 8s) at the limb tip, why does it then change a whole lot more when I move the other end of the lever (limb butt) just a tiny bit?

I only have Hex 7 ILF limbs and don't see the 10% adjustment that is advertised with conventional limbs.

Kevin not Ken.

Sorry KPC

Well isn't turning the limb bolts adjusting tiller and weight. Basically the same.

If you start at 'neutral or 'even' tiller, turning out the bolts the same amount only affects weight. Tiller changes when you turn the bolts in or out differently from one another.

Tiller is 'balance'.

cited on another thread RE DAvid Sosa (DAS):

https://www.arkansashunting.net/threads/some-thougts-on- tiller.164323/

Sosa apparently does agree with DanaC thinking that shorter bows are more affected by tiller adjustment...but if that's true, why are target bows so critically tuned and hunters not particularly interested?

Babysaph"Well I was thinking I could adjust the weight up or down about 5 Pounds to help with my surgery."

Unrealistic expectation.

Measure the poundage with both bolts full in vs both 5 turns out at same draw length, if your poundage is the same I can't figure out why if your scale is correct.

I see what you are saying Kevin but you have not convinced me. :^)

Adjusting a limb bolt changes the angle of the limb as well as the weight of the limb at brace. I believe both would affect tiller.

The flat spot in the super recurve draw force curve starts more back around the 26" mark (or wherever the bowyer designs it to be), not a brace. In fact SR limbs are quite front load heavy. In that flat spot range around full draw, drawing the tip further back (ie, increasing the draw length) may result in very little or no increase in draw weight. And of course I know you know that. If increasing the draw length by pulling the tip further back can result in little/no increase in draw weight, then I believe moving the other end of the lever by tightening the limb bolt could also have that same result, at full draw in the flat spot.

I'd like to hear more findings from the guys shooting Hex 8 or Max 6 limbs. Are they seeing 10% weight adjustments from their ILF limbs?

My take is different. When the bolts are out, the limbs at brace height are going off the limb pads at a less steeper angle than if they were with bolts all the way in - this is 3d geometry 101. Disregarding the drawing curve, at same draw length, you will see a difference in poundage due to that angle. Is this difference 10% or 5%? I don't care. What was not said yet by Babysaph is:

1 his draw length and how he measured the draw weight (what was the reading with bolts all in and what is the reading with bolts out -safe, as per manufacturer's indications).

It is another bogus that is running around: 5 lbs difference which is most of the time in best case scenario 10% from the indicated dw on the limb. 10% from #40 pounds are #4 but depending of where the limb manufacturer measured the #40 this can vary from #44 max load to #40 min or #42 to #38 or #40 to #36. If Babysaph did not measured the extremes, I don't think he can feel #2 difference in fingers or less. If he shoots bareshafts and normal arrows will see the difference, otherwise no.

Yes but turning them in or out even at unequal amounts has to effect the weight.,

I found that out Katman. I can however but limbs that are cheaper than say buying limbs for any other custom bow. I now own lots of limbs. Lol

I figured it out.

I have the max 6 . I can only reduce my limbs down 3 pounds from the 41 lb Iimbs i ordered. Can't go up any.

If you have already registered, please

sign in now

For new registrations

Click Here