Getting back into roving as much as possible. Went out the last two weekends and flung some arrows. Both times, I had a nock fail at release. Full draw, release the string, and a really odd noise, lots of vibration, and the arrow falls to the ground with one leg of the nock snapped off. I've never ever had this happen before, even as a child in the 70s shooting 79 cent arrows from Ben Franklin. #50 Wing thunderbird, home made bamboo arrows, plastic green neon nocks. Thoughts, anyone?

Could the nocks have been damaged on impact with stump or on the bounce back? Hard stumps, cold weather, bad bunch of nocks?

Probably damaged from field point in a previous round of shooting.

The only time I had this issue, was a few years ago with my first set of home made wood arrows. I used way to much nock glue. We were shooting a 3D (Compton in Michigan) it was hot, humid, and even a little rain.....about mid day I had 3 in a row pop off. Close inspection of the nocks revealed that too much glue was used. It was My first time, and I filled each nock with glue and pushed them on. Lesson to self. Less is more.

I don't think they were subjected undue shock, at least not much. I just made these shafts, they'd only been on a couple outings. I'm suspicioning a bad batch of nocks, but I hope that's not it, I have like fifty of them.

The weather was cool, like in the 50's and 60's, but not cold, certainly not freezing.

I try to use enough glue to get a seal all the way around the rear taper and inside the nock, but I don't try to fill the nock.

Best guess would be bad nocks.I'd certainly give each nock a good pinch before each shot.

The only time I had it happen with plastic nocks is with old nocks on store bought arrows back in the day. Jawge

Had a similar problem many years ago and only when the temperature was well below freezing. This on aluminum arrows with various types of nocks.

At the time used Fletchtite adhesive for cementing the nocks (the old mix in white tubes). Often they would shatter upon release.

Switched to using Superglue gel without a problem since.

My guess is the taper on the shaft did not match the taper in the nock.

Bob

Yep, and it caused failure in my Dale Dye riser. First time it ever hapened to me in 49 years

Yep, and it caused failure in my Dale Dye riser. First time it ever hapened to me in 49 years

Or, you just got a bad bunch of nocks. I got some white Mercury nocks once that all would crack when you glued them on. It wasn't a bad taper their because they were on new aluminum arrows. Now and then you get a bad batch. I never had a nock break on the shot ever to my knowledge. I had one stay on the string once when I forgot to glue it on but the arrow still flew fine.

That's the main reason I will only shoot one arrow at a target at a time. I dislike ruining arrows.

I'll bet you are placing a lot of finger torque on the nock when drawing and holding. I had similar problems back when I used glue on nocks. Loose-fitting nocks are a problem waiting to bite you. You really need to focus on making a clean hold and release. Since going to carbon shafts which use a much more durable plastic insert nock I have not had a single "dry fire" due to a nock breaking during the draw/release process. Good luck.

Hey Yankee, I've never been good enough to worry about that. And if was unlucky enough to hit the back of an arrow, it usually visibly broke the nock. Never had a robin hood in all my years of indoor shooting and I shot many decent scores...6 arrows in a target per end.

George:

I would bet your problem with the mercury nock happened when Easton changed the nock taper standard from 11 degrees to 11.5 degrees. And I say Easton changed the standard, Jim Easton was president of the AMO, and he recommended the change. If I remember correctly that happened in the mid to late 1980's.

Bob

Had this happen with a batch of white Nirk nocks. This was maybe 10 years ago. I wasn’t the only one either, there was a lengthy thread over on the Gang about those nocks. I was using them on aluminums at the time. I chucked the batch. I did like the open throat and slight snap action of the nocks.

Bob, is that the reason the 24rst's (?) From Easton don't hold nocks well?

I had bad batch’s of Bohning nocks shout 5-6 years ago. Sent them back and the first shot with the new batch broke a leg off and the arrow fell to the floor. Threw them all out and never used that style again. First and last time in my life.

Ive had old nocks break, new nocks break, glue on nocks break, insert nocks break. Old brittle plastic speed nocks are the worst, but none are immortal. So far only one scratch on my lip from a chunk of plastic.

De -

The first reply you got completely answered your question. If in doubt change all the nocks with a new batch. Nocks are expendables.

And for the record, if a dry fire caused a bow failure, the bow was going to blow in short order anyway.

Oh, one other thing. Some types of glue doesn't play nice with some nock plastics and using too much may weaken them.

Viper out.

Re-reading the thread. Yes because I made another big mistake, by sanding the nock opening in my aluminum and carbon arrows, I unknowingly weakened the "legs" of the nock..I learned the weakened nocks don't tolerate the occasional bump into the back of the nock when shooting groups. So really the answer to the original question, does merit multiple replys and experiences. It's how we learn....faster. Lord knows I need all the help I can get. Shoot straight.

Heed aromakr's words. bamboo is a possible clue. They are smaller in diameter too. If you don't get a correct taper fit the shaft acts as a wedge and splits the knock. They usually take 5/16 or 1/4" nocks and a good fit is a must. The wrong glue will soften nocks and bad nocks is a possibility. Fit is often the unsuspected cause. Be careful, >>>>----> Ken

Yes, always check your nocks or you will watch $900.00 worth of bow go flying out of your hand across the concrete!!!! That is a baaaad feeling.

NY Yankee. Shoot at four different spots in the target...you won't break an arrow and you'll walk less!

Doesn't look as sexy as an arrow busting group but I find it harder to shoot at small targets on the edge.

Oh, and I have had nocks fail. I chalk it up to age...of the nock. Not me!

Thanks for all the input guys. I’m voting for nock fit being the issue. It was my first time sanding shafts to fit nocks and some came out better than others. I’ve noticed that the bamboo shafts, though sounds to the same weight, vary in diameter. Getting the correct size nock has been tricky.

Only nock issues I've ever had were with old white Mercuryl nocks. Once you notice discoloring they are getting brittle! Had one disintegrate just the other day upon impact with a bag target! They don't seem to age well ..at least not the white ones! Most of the taper was still glued to the cedar arrow,but the rest shattered. And I don't shoot groups,so it had never been compromised.

I've had three nock failures in as many years. The most recent and the most alarming was a few days ago. Nock blew on release, arrow landed a few feet away, but the bow made a big racket, threw the string and landed in the rough about eight feet in front of me. Fortunately only minor scratches to my bow. All three nock failures occurred on aluminum arrows. I have never had such a failure with carbon arrow using insert nocks. I am really thinking it's time to retire my aluminum arrows. I guess three IS the charm, I don't want to chance it again.

That’s the second reference on the thread to having a bow come out of your hand with a nock fail. Both times my bow did a nasty vibration and a scary thrum noise, but it didn’t try to get away.

This thread has got me wondering if the conical end of an aluminum shaft, acts like a wedge, tending to drive deeper into the socket of the nock with every release perhaps causing unexpected nock failure. Of course glue would inhibit any wedge effect and begs the question: Does the kind of glue used have an effect on the probability of glue- on nock failure? I am curious what kind of glue Mr. Stout uses with his nocks, as he has had no nock failures upon release and he has likely shot a truckload of arrows over the years. How you other guys who have never had a dry-fire as the result of nock failure, what's your glue of choice, eh? I have been used hot glue for ease of removal .... maybe I should rethink my choice.

Hot glue on nocks?I don't think so!

I have never had a nock failure. All I use is any good old hobby, plastic model, cement. Wood, bamboo,and aluminium shafts. No glue, on carbon shaft, press in nocks. I think he has it figured out now. Size and taper fit are important. If the nock is slamming against the point of the shaft or the taper is too wide it acts like a splitting wedge. There is a good bit of force applied when the arrow comes to a sudden stop at the target as well as the launch. That is the reason for the diameter given for the point on the shaft when you cut the tapers. Good assembly practice goes along way to preventing accidents.Take care, >>>>-------> Ken

Just to add to the mix, I used Hobby Lobby hot melt for ease of assembly and repair. It wasn’t very robust and I had nicks pop off on impact pretty often. I bought some E6000 cement at Lowe’s and tried that. I’m finding that footings and inserts will pop off using that. The nocks that split had been glued with it also. But I think it was taper angle that blew the nick in question.

no heat---plastic cement only for nocks. >>>----> Ken

I have noticed noise when I have a bad release shooting loose fitting nocks. I think it twists the arrow instead of pushing it straight.

So SB ... What do you use to glue do you for nocks for aluminum shafts? I think this is an important topic worth some discussion.

fat strings, tight nocks and cold conditions can cause nock failure. E6000 is a contact cement if I remember right, I don't think that it would weaken plastic nocks. Nocks that are not seated completely on the string can crack nocks as well.

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