Question for anyone familiar with the Pattern drawn by Tim Flood. I made a string jig from his pattern found online and now I am not sure how to get started.

If for instance I want to make a string for an AMA 62” recurve, would I start with the pin at the 62” mark? Or do I subtract the 4 inches and use the pin at 58”?

Would I add any length to allow for the loops, or is that built in to the jig?

Thank You, John

lot depends on you technique as how tight you twist etc will probably have to make a few to figure it out I still have to do this if not having made a string in a long while but once get my twist consistant I can fly along kinda an art to

Number 1 is find if the bow was built to amo standards, which is 3 inches, not 4. Some of the old bows before amo were 4 and a few custom bow makers still don't use it. So talk to the bowyer first. if its amo tho its 3 inches shorter.

I was wondering same thing. I also made this jig and needed a string for 68 in bow. subtracted 3 in and used 65in peg. string ended up 60in loop to loop? this time im going to use 68 peg. we will see lol

I use that plan. If you need a string for a 58" AMO bow, use the 58" mark. I use about 9" for the loops. Hope this helps.

Thank you all. I appreciate your help. JM

You want the longest strand to be 18 to 20 inches longer than the targeted finished length. I use 10" each end for loop and splice - many use 9".

"Would I add any length to allow for the loops, or is that built in to the jig?"

I make the bottom loop just big enough to fit over the tip and into the grooves, after all, the loop goes in a tip protector and stays on the bow, once the brace is established. That way I can use a little more for the top loop, which slides down the limb when unstrung.

Yes, on my jig the loop length is included in the design. The adjustable pin is set to the desired string length, 62" is for a 62" string.

I drilled my length holes 1/2" so I can adjust a little more closely. I marked them in pencil until I made a few strings to see how they came out. Mine is AMO.

Maybe I'm just dull, but I never have had a string turn out to the right length using the string jig alone. I just use the jig to lay up the bundles and then measure string length prior to twisting in the second loop. It is fool proof and I'm not taking loops out and adjusting because it is a half inch too long or short.

I made a string for a new archer last month and I haven't twisted up one in quite a while. I took the twists out of both strands and proceeded to put my counter twists in backward. Needless to say, I was twisting away and something didn't look right and I had to untwist both strands again and put in my counter twists correctly.

Follow up to my original question. I made a string using this Flemish jig. It was for a 62” bow and I used the 62” peg (B-50). When I strung the bow up it came out with a 7 3/4” brace height.

I left the bow braced and three days later I measured the brace height at 7”. So the question is: is that a normal amount of stretch for a Flemish string, or does it signify a problem with the construction of the string?

The bow is a 1958 Bear Alaskan dual shelf. Thanks again for the input I received. JM

Perfectly normal amount of stretch. And you ended up about exactly where I brace my '58 Alaskan! I'd say you got it!

I put my 195# of weight on the strings when hung from a stout hook in the basement rafters. Give it lots of stretching and it will settle down faster on the bow. It still will stretch a tad when you start shooting it. BTW I do a 3.5" AMO string, 8.5" and 8" loops, and it seems to come really close when stretched.

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