Im bought a centaur dark horse cut to center 58 inch bow should b 50lbs at 26inch any suggestions on carbon arrows

Is it cut exactly to Center?

If so, what’s your sideplate thickness and what is your stand count on the string?

Also be good to know if you have a target all-up weight for your finished arrow. There are plenty of correct answers, but not necessarily the ones you want.

Havent recieved it yet just bought it he said it was cut to center not sure side plate thickness

Havent recieved it yet just bought it he said it was cut to center not sure side plate thickness

Havent recieved it yet just bought it he said it was cut to center not sure side plate thickness

Gold tip 35-55 I think would work great

GT's are a great option because you can tune until you're happy. Can also buy a pretty cheap kit that has field tips from 125 to 300 in 50g increments… this is what I do because as a long draw guy I don't have a ton of arrow length to deal tune with... I have to do it mostly with tip weight.

Hope you like your Centaur... I love mine.

Maybe I can help you all help David - I just sold him the bow. Here's the back and belly of the riser. I didn't quite get either dead-on, but very close. The side plate and rest are the soft side of velcro. I just measured plate thickness with calipers and with a little bit of pressure at 0.09 inch.

From Centaur's website . . .

"A view from the back lets you see that these bows are cut to center so they are not arrow critical, meaning they are tolerant to a wide variety of arrow spines. You may shoot the arrow of your choice whether it be a wood shaft, an aluminum, or carbon arrow."

I've had 3 Centaurs both Chimera's and Triple Carbons and They can handle a pretty stiff arrow. I shot Easton axis 400's cut to 29 with 275 up front out of my 52@26 triple carbon. 500's were weak and I didn't want a short arrow for aiming purposes. That being said, I think a .500 cut to 28-28.5 with 225-250 up front would be a fine choice.

I have been shooting both of these arrows through this bow. 28 inch draw. They are quite different. The 250's are 29-1/4 inches and the 400's are 31-5/8 inches. Both with 125 gr points.

Mind you I'm not a great shot - I'm a pie plate guy - I hit about 10/12 inside a 8 inch circle at 20 yds. But for me these arrows both shoot the same groups.

I have not done a paper test but looking from the shooters perspective, all I ever see in the target is nock and feathers with the 250's; sometimes the 400's are pointed slightly left (nock to the right).

Here is the 250 as it rests. Diameter 0.300 inch

JMO, those arrows are RIDICULOUSLY stiff.

Based on my own results, the OP is probably looking at a 1916+125 cut to 28”, but he can probably get by with 2016s if he wants. Full-length 500s will almost certainly be stiff with 145 gr points, but 5” shields will mask it.

600s at 28” will probably fly pretty well with 125s up front. Just take note that the total weight doesn’t go too low.

Those recommendations I just gave are based on my own observations, using LBs and Recurves rated #50-#55 @ 28” and drawn to about 27.5” AMO. And they also match up to Stu’s calculator dead-nuts. OP may want to start with longer arrows and/or heavier points, since it sounds like my DL is a bit longer

Here is the 400 as it rests. Diameter 0.260 inch

I had two identical Centaurs, one piece and 2 pc. I sold the 2 pc (top photo) and kept the one piece (bottom photos).

The reason for all my posts is mostly to help David with his bow, but also by reading all you experts' advice maybe I can improve on my shooting with a better arrow choice.

You need to resize you photos to 500 pixels for this forum. Phil may delete those.

Thanks zog

Thanks George

George - 500 px width? length? both?

250's come out to 29.25" x 10.92 gpi = 319 gr + 125 gr tip + 12 gr for feathers = 456 grain / 55# = 8.3 gr per pound of draw.

400's come out to 31.63" x 9.00 gpi = 285 gr + 125 gr tip + 12 gr for feathers = 422 grain / 55# = 7.7 gr per pound of draw

Those weights don’t sound too bad if the bow is built to take the stress, but the spine rating is still WAY off the charts, especially given the OP’s shorter draw length.

GF thanks. I know this is not my thread but I'm gonna check out some lower spine arrows now. What is "Stu's calculator"?

A CX 250 291/8" bop 125 grain point 3 3/4" feathers weight 483 grains ten percent FOC. Would work better with 145 grains or more used them for years but switch to CX 150 and like them well with 200 grains up front .

http://heilakka.com/stumiller/

http://www.taylortel.net/~rickbarb/dynamic_spine_calculator.html

The first link it will take you to a downloadable version that you can keep on your computer and use to keep records on things that you’ve tested, etc.…

Second link is to a newer, expanded version with more data in the base.

Either way, you’re dealing with formulas and programming so it is still Garbage In/Garbage Out.

But it sure has worked for me. We have a few of our crustier/older members who like to talk about how they always managed to get to get along just fine without such newfangled foolishness, but if you don’t have 20 or 30 years to spend working in an archery shop, you just might find it to be a valuable time saver… Just sayin’…

i have a centaur 50lbs at 26. i draw almost 26. my arrows are 500 spine FMJ. cut to 27 3/4 BOP shooting 200 field tips.

i have a centaur triple carbon 52#@27 29'' bop 400 grizzly stik momentum 75 half out 175 grain head 425g arrow 29'' bop 400 day six hd 50 center pin outsert 200 grain head 424g arrow

one last thing 7.75'' brace height perfect flight bare shaft and quiet

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