For general purposes you would measure draw length as you have stated. If you are a manufacturer and subscribe to AMO Standards, you would measure from the string 26-1/4" to the deepest point of the grip. Then add 1-3/4" to make the 28" AMO standards are available on line. bvd

Yes, back of bow.

I measure it to back of bow, how we always did it prior to AMO's method.

AMO CONVENTIONAL BOW WEIGHT MARKING STANDARD In accordance with the AMO Bow Weight Standard, the manufacturer has the option to mark his bow with actual draw weight at 28” (26 1/4” DLPP) draw or to use the following bow weight markings, especially on hunting models and middle, and low end bows.

Example: Bows weighing 19 - 20 -21 lb. - will be marked 20 lbs.

Bows weighing 22 - 23 lbs. - will be marked 20X lbs.

Bows weighing 24 - 25- 26 lbs. - will be marked 25 lbs.

Bows weighing 27 - 28 lbs. - will be marked 25X lbs.

Bows weighing 29 - 30 - 31 lbs. - will be marked 30 lbs.

All other conventional bow weights not shown would follow this same formula.

"you would measure from the string 26-1/4" to the deepest point of the grip. Then add 1-3/4" to make the 28" AMO standards"

What does that mean, measure 28" from string to deepest point on the grip?

if you want to find out exactly on a particular bow draw an arrow to your normal anchor & have someone Mark the shaft @ the front of the riser then on a scale draw that arrow back till the mark is at the same place to get your exact #s

When you measure 26-1/4" to the deepest point of the grip, the 1-3/4" that is added will, on a lot of bows, take you to the back of the bow. The 26-1/4" would be the same on all bows measured that way. You do not measure 28" to the deepest point of the grip. bvd

A picture is worth...

PECO...""you would measure from the string 26-1/4" to the deepest point of the grip. Then add 1-3/4" to make the 28" AMO standards""

It's pretty explanatory. 26 1/4 to the pivot point then add 1 3/4" and that will take you near the back of the bow.

That all kind of goes out window with r/d and Asls because of the variations in grip depth, the back of the bow standard on that style of bow makes more sense.

dean, I agree. That's how everyone I ever knew did it...to the back of the bow. It makes sense due to broadhead clearance for one thing.

Not all bowyers measure the same either. You might get a bow built and find its heavier or lighter.

Then you call them and ask how did you measure my bow.

Also digital and spring type scales as well as hand scales measure different for many of us.

I can take a bow and look at the AMO and then figure it out where the bow weight was measured from then I have a starting point to see where I am at my draw with an arrow I set up to measure length.

All you do is take a bare wood shaft and sand it down flat on the one side and make sure you have a nock on it and then mark it out in inches.

This is the way I do things to figure out bow weights. Most times I will just use a hand scale with the marker arrow.

I allow 1 inch to 2 inches longer on my arrows for BH's. Some have to leave longer who sight the arrows. I don't i just look at intended target.

If I look at anything else it puts a fart in my computer in my head.

Its like a flinter when the smoke clears what happened.LOL

A lot of times when you go to clubs to shoot they have a scale on the wall so you can check your bows out.

I like the hand scale though. Good bad or indifferent that's what I use to measure weight.

Any bow that that is not marked XX# @ 28" AMO is not made to AMO standards. Such as a bow marked XX# @ 26" or XX# @ 30" should not be marked "AMO". But the way things are today I guess you can make up your own rules as you go along and call them something else. bvd

Dumb formula - throat of nock to front of the riser shelf (back of the bow), period!

That's what I'm saying Kwikdraw. What is with the Foghorn Leghorn formula? Either measure to the back of the bow, or deepest part of the throat. Eliminate the error of assuming grips are 1.75" deep.

The Foghorn Leghorn formula has been the Standard for 50+ years. Nobody says you have to follow it, but if you are selling home made bows, don't mark them AMO if they are not. bvd

"The Foghorn Leghorn formula has been the Standard for 50+ years" Yep.

Only thing that confuses folks more than this is actual draw length versus arrow length.

I measure to the back of the riser, but measuring a fixed distance to the deepest part of the grip is more consistent when comparing bows with different shelf lengths. Just not nearly as convenient for me. I just assume close to 1.75" shelf length. A couple pounds isn't all that important to me.

Most bows have a grip depth pretty close to 1.75", that's why that number was chosen.

You'll have some that are more, and some that are less, but there probably won't be much more than a 1/4" difference either way for most bows.

When you're making bows by the hundreds, or thousands, you need a standardized way of measuring and weighing them for consistency and time saving.

If you're just making a few in your garage, it doesn't really matter. You can do it however you want to, but as mentioned previously, please don't mark them "AMO" if they aren't made to the standard. That's just annoying...lol.

I made my bows to AMO standards because I thought it was a good system, but I never wrote "AMO" on them because didn't want to write the extra letters on my bows...lol.

And technically, AMO doesn't even exist anymore.

It was reorganized as ATA (Archery Trade Association) almost 20 years ago.

Still the same standards though.

From the string to the BACK of the riser, where the shelf ends, is how far you draw the bow while measuring the draw weight.

26 1/4 to the deepest part of the grip is correct for the AMO 28" measurement. It was done that way to allow for very narrow to very wide grips. We generally all measure to the back of the bow from string at 28" for convenience. Except for those narrow/wide exceptions it comes out very near the same. As I have said before that is the reason so many think their bows are marked wrong. They are measuring differently. >>>>-----> Ken

Actually, AMO/ATA standard is to DRAW THE STRING BACK A MEASURED 26 1/4" From the deepest part of the grip. Makes no difference where or when the shelf ends, and you do not add anything! The 1 3/4"thing is assumed by AMO/ATA. That is the standard. Then, when you pull your arrow back further or less, don't bitch out the bowyer for missing weight if it's marked AMO or ATA. If I was making a bow for myself or ordering a bow, I would use one of my arrows as a draw check. Postage is cheap to get it right.

In case you still doubted,there you have it from Mr Larry hatfield. I seriously doubt anyone here has made or weighed more bows. >>>>-----> ken

Thank you Larry for clearing this up.

Thank you Larry for clearing this up.

Im under the impression that ATA is a membership thing and since im not a member I never write "AMO" on any bow that I make. However, the weight I write on the bow is always measured with the AMO method.

Anybody considering a bow purchase should measure it themselves by whatever method they prefer. If you can't measure it yourself then ask the seller or maker to measure it for you by your preferred method.

I have scaled quite a few bows that came nowhere near their mark no matter how measured. One was a new bow that was marked 47# and measured 41#. Several People who shot it remarked how "smooth" the bow was. :-)

This all reminds of something. Remember that old construction workers joke? I man declared his hoohah to be as long as a cat's tail and could prove it?

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