Just made up s set with the screw on brass points. I liked how they turned out just wondering if others have experience using them. How they hold up under normal use.

Still have a dozen I made up about 20 years ago! A bit tarnished but I could probably polish them if I wanted to.

Have been using their stainless products and have been very pleased. Well worth a few extra bucks. Built these up but have not had a chance to use them yet.

WOW that’s a good testament

They work good.

Been using the stainless for about 10 years. I use to buy them from a place in Ireland and they were very expensive. Now Lancaster archery sells them. They’re definitely worth the extra $$. The brass ones won’t work on Hickory, the wood is so hard the threads wouldn’t bite, so I only use the brass on POC and Pine. Smudge the tip and file ‘em pointy, and they’re good as new. The plus with Top Hats is this; you don’t taper the shaft for the point, so the shaft is stronger and the shafts rarely break behind the point.

They offer no improvement when it comes to break resistance and are incompatible with broadheads and other tapered heads like hex blunts. So if you only use your arrows for target, they are ok, otherwise stay with the tapered. Also, no significant weight difference offered.

The field points are self-centering and being a parallel application are less prone to breaking behind the point. Top Hat offers a screw on adapter that gives you the option of using any screw in broadhead. They also have other glue-in points. See for yourself in Lancaster Archery’s online catalogue...Great Product!

Started using them this year. The brass ones so far. I like them.

Look good. Nice alternative. I don't see anything that would make the arrow less susceptible to breaking behind the point, however.

I've shot TopHats for years with Longbow. 2007 shot world Fields in Namibia it was very rocky and basically if you missed it was a rock face beind the target and the boss wasn't much bigger than the face. two guys dropped out second day as they ran out of arrows, I didn't break a single arrow all week.

They offer a thread pre-cutter for harder woods. Screw it on to thread the non-tapered shaft, unscrew it and screw on a perfectly square brass or stainless field point.

You can also order direct from https://tophatarchery.com/ too.

I get the 11/32 /125gr points, heat the point up, screw it on a 23/64” shaft. When it cools, it’s a nice, solid fit.

I like that idea of heating the points,Mike, and i'm thinking a little hot melt on the threads wouldn't hurt. I will try that this winter. Sandy.

Zeta: That begs the question , Did you break no arrows because yours were stronger or because you didn't miss the targets, while some of the other competitors did? :>)

Orion

Jaco Wessels (Timberpoint) was second (I was 3rd) he broke around 7 arrows, he switched to TopHats straight afterwards.

Thanks for the info guys. I bought the thread tool along with the points and it really made it easy. I suppose if you happen to stick it into wood it would be easier to remove?

Alexander, if you get a good fit, glue is unecessary. Once the point cools and tightens, it’ll require me to heat the point up just to loosen it with Channel locks. If I lose and arrow, and find it some months later, I remove the point, and if the shaft is still good, I trim the shaft down about a half to 3/4” and refit the point. Sometimes the point just doesn’t tighten like it did originally and I have used a little Duco on the threads. But for some reason, if the arrow goes into the target deep enough, I can lose that point when I pull the arrow out. I can’t really tell you why this happens.

How far does the arrow shaft fit into the point? Or I should say , how long do the threads go down the shaft from end of shaft to where the threads end? I just bought a dozen wood arrows and wanted em full length. So that means I had to taper and fix points. Which I have done a 1000 times. But it has been a long while. I just realized how much of a pain it is. Seems no taper is the same. For example, if I stick a toothpick down the loose point it goes down over an inch, yet any, point taper tool I have ever used only cuts down slightly over 3/4". I have discovered tonight it, leaves room for error on my behalf. So I was considering trying the top hat products. I was just curious how long the threading is, to try and figure out how much I'm going to have to shorten my 3 tapered shafts. Lol because I assume I will have to cut the taper completely off and start from non tapered stock.

Usually about 1/2" of thread at the end. Best wood arrow points available, hands down. Very durable and precise. Use nothing else.

If you have already registered, please

sign in now

For new registrations

Click Here