From: Vtbow
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Date: 19-Oct-18 |
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I bougth some NOS dura-flight #8 shafts to build up and have no idea what to use for insert size(nock and BH) anyone have a chart that would help? or any thoughts? Thanks in Advance!
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From: DanaC
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Date: 19-Oct-18 |
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Need the inside diameter of the shaft. Got calipers?
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From: DanaC
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Date: 19-Oct-18 |
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If no calipers, get a set of drill bits out and note which one fits best.
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From: Vtbow
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Date: 19-Oct-18 |
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good callon the drill bit, so simple. HAve a set of calipers somewhere, but...who kows where.
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From: barredfeather53
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Date: 19-Oct-18 |
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#8 Micro Flites use a 2016 insert. I "think" Micro Flites and Dura Flites are the same numbered sizes.
Jerry
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From: Vtbow
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Date: 19-Oct-18 |
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Thanks jerry. Ill see if I hjave any kickign around.
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 19-Oct-18 |
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My #8 Duraflights will take a 2016 insert. The #7's a 2018.
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From: dean
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Date: 19-Oct-18 |
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I have some #9s that have PO cedar inserts. Put a chunk of cedar arrow in a drill, hold a 60 grit sandpaper block to it and then start the drill. When it slides into the glass shaft with just right friction, it is the right size, I did measure the cedars length to make them all the same. I bought some that had points and inserts glued jb weld. i could get them to separate and when I cut them off at the end of the ferule they were too short for broad head finger clearance. So the fiberglass shaft was my draw length and the finger clearance was part was cedar. I saw some on EBAY that would have worked just right for my wife, but were that little bit short. I offered her the cedar lengthening thing. She scoffed at me, then changed her mind. Too late, they were gone and for ridiculously cheap.
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From: Vtbow
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Date: 19-Oct-18 |
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Any reason not to take a piece of 1/4" dowel--like 2" long if it fits andepoxy it in then use my standard taper tool for nocks?
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 19-Oct-18 |
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Brian, those old fiberglass will split quickly if you apply too much force to the end of an open shaft. You can use wood if you like but it wouldn't be my choice unless you foot the shaft first with a larger diameter aluminum. You wouldn't need much..maybe just an inch or so in length to support the shaft end.
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From: Vtbow
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Date: 19-Oct-18 |
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Thanks george. I ordered some 2016 aluminum inserts, and found some truflite 20-16 composite nock inserts. Should have them in a few days! Thanks!
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From: dean
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Date: 19-Oct-18 |
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Actually, with six inches of a cedar arrow slimmed to fit, the glass shafts will have less chance of splitting than with the typical short screw in insert. The longer glue-on adopters were more split resistant the converta types as well. I used nothing but 11s and 12s out of my heavy bows since the early 70s. The only ones that i ever split were those converta screw ins.
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 19-Oct-18 |
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The issue I have with pushing wood inside a fiberglass is you have to secure it with epoxy or superglue. Then, if you do mess up the taper, you are pretty much screwed...can't heat it to remove the wood and you sure can't burn it out. I think you are just better off to use inserts..either screw-in, or glue in aluminum broadhead adapters since you can do it with low temp hot melt.
Yeah, you can likely come up with many ideas, but keep in mind you may want to change the tips at some point either from choice or necessity. I have a few that I footed with some 2314 tubing and they have been going strong now for a lot of shots. I would recommend that to help them last longer.
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