I dislike "screw-in" points and won't use them. I much prefer glue-on. Anyone else like me?

When you say 'points' that includes field points and I don't care if my field points are screw in. I won't buy anything but glue on broadheads. It's too hard to change weight on screw in making them too expensive.

Bowmania

Nothing is always and nothing is never. I generally adapt to what I have on hand since it all works just fine.

My favored broadheads are 160 grain and are glue on, I grew up with glue on and being male just don't like change. I've broken off a couple of everybody's current favorite 3 blade at the threads on pigs and that doesn't help me build love for screw in anything. I do have a lighter weight 55# hybrid that I shoot screw in field points with but change arrows to a glue on 160 Snuffer when I hunt with it.

If I have them I use them. Glue on is probably a little stouter for broadheads. >>>>-----> ken

I'm just the opposite. I much prefer screw on.

I prefer them to the point, that in my latter years of mostly using wood arrows, I converted them all to screw in with my own homemade adapters.

Rick

So you are saying you only shoot wood arrows? Then just say that. I shoot glue on field points and broadheads that I glue on steel or aluminum adapters, so I can get the weight I want, that I screw into my aluminum shafts. So am I shooting a glue on or a screw in field point or broadhead? DANNY

Danny, I think some use the glue in broadhead adapters in their aluminum or carbon, at least that's how I took it. I don't get too excited at what others think about things, I try to just fall back on what works best for me. I've used all of those attachements and still do occasionally. I do like the handy side of screw in points and see no down side.

I only shoot wood arrows now so I use glue on field points and broadheads. But I still have some old aluminum wood screw point adapters that I use on my wood arrows sometimes in case I want to shoot the D.A.R.T. video target system.

The glue-in/glue-on adapters are getting difficult to find for aluminum. The other day I was refurbing some old Gamegetters. Since they had inserts epoxied in, I used JB Weld on the threads and screwed in threaded point adapters, making a very solid glue-on adapter. I own only glue-on points so that worked very well. Just another way to get the skin off the cat.

Tip for those that have aluminum arrows and no glue in inserts. Find a wood arrow that slides inside the aluminum shaft, taper the point end and then cut it down to about 3". Glue it inside the shaft to where the taper starts on the wood shaft and then glue your point on.

Jon doesn't that change the spine of the arrow adding that weight up front? You are adding 3 inches of wood inside the shaft, plus the taper for the broadhead. DANNY

No more than the aluminum insert does. You could use maybe 2" of wood inside. Wood is light. I never had a problem with using them.

What Jon Stewart said. I've done that for years. All you have to do is turn the wooden dowel down to the size you want. I wouldn't know if it changed the spine because that's how I tune my arrows. I only use 1 1/2" inside the shaft though.

Jon,

The inserts match the diameter at the back of the broadhead opening, thereby providing a more stable joint connection of the head to the shaft. Without that slight bit of stability, I could envision a broadhead touching bone and turning on impact out of the shaft axis.

Glue on are superior on other forms of arrows also, it isn't just a wood thing. Particularly for broadheads I have only glue ons, I use some screw ons for practice as I can't afford judos for every size of arrow I use.

I recently got some carbons that are going to be marginal with any kind of heavy head. I may have to shoot those with screw ins if it makes more sense. If I had some grizz 100s I might use those, and make a light weight taper point.

Well, THAT’S disappointing!

I’ve not been able to locate any glue-in adaptors for the sizes of arrow that I have tuned with; Ace has a few sizes left in brass, but they're pretty stout (weightwise)...

A trick I learned from Selden Slider is that you can convert a woodie to a screw-in point quite easily by footing the wood with aluminum starting that has an insert up front.

Personally, there are 2 things I don’t really like about screw-ins:

#1 - they come un-screwed - although O-rings, Pipe Tape and (evidently) JB Weld can address that with varying degrees of reliability and permanence.

#2 - and some may find this a bit daft - it’s a pain trying to get the blade of your BH into the same orientation on each shaft. P&Y apparently liked to have the blade parallel to the horison, while Ishi (apparently not realizing that arrows spin in flight) likes his blades vertical, the better to slip between the ribs.

Main reason I’m interested is that as an avowed Gapstinctive Shooter, if I’m going to make reference of my arrow while aiming, I want the sight picture to be as consistent as I can make it.

The easiest way I have found is to tighten the broadhead in the insert good and tight then install the insert with hot melt and twist to align. After my hunting arrows have been checked they get the sharpened heads and remain at least through the season. I don't swap them around to target points. They remain ready to hunt. I don't want any nicks or dings in the shaft nor ruffled feathers for hunting. >>>>----> ken

GF: what size inserts you looking for?

Not staying tight? Bow string wax fixes that immediately.

Trouble aligning? Hot melt is easy to fix that. People who use epoxy or super glue to put in bushings likely will have issues though.

You guys are helping me out here, as usual!

I’m thinking that the ticket for me will be getting my hands on some glue-in adapters that will fit a 2117 so I can foot my carbons and attach my BHs in one step. Then I can align the nock to the blade and fletch accordingly....

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