Well guys I am scratching my head here trying to come up with an arrow for this bow. Ill start off with the specs

60" bow FF string cut 1/8th past center with a thin calf hair strike plate

44#@28 my draw is 27" maybe 26.5 with some layers and a coat on, so the bow is probably 41# at my draw.

I'm thinking about beeman centershot 600 spine shafts but unsure of length and point weight. I have only shot woodies before so dont know what to do with carbon

Well guys I am scratching my head here trying to come up with an arrow for this bow. Ill start off with the specs

60" bow FF string cut 1/8th past center with a thin calf hair strike plate

44#@28 my draw is 27" maybe 26.5 with some layers and a coat on, so the bow is probably 41# at my draw.

I'm thinking about beeman centershot 600 spine shafts but unsure of length and point weight. I have only shot woodies before so dont know what to do with carbon

Depends on the material the arrow is made of. Rules of thumb on that. Do a search, on arrow spine. Lots of info on this site.

What type of bow are you talking about. Recurve or longbow?

recurve

You need to choose what arrow length you want, as well as what point length. That's not up to us. Once you do that, then we can work the gozintos to get you close to spine. You will need to tune whatever you choose, but honestly, why have someone else make the decision.

Here's what I think. With 125 to 145 up front, I would use a 29" 600. I think the FF string will accommodate that with some tuning. If you want heavier tips, then you accommodate for that with a shorter arrow length or stiffer spine. Now if I were you, I still would figure it out myself once you decide what you want in an arrow.

I know I am going to have to do the tuning myself I am just looking for a place to start as I have no carbon experience.

just from trying to bumble my way through some theory crafting I was thinking a 28" beman centershot 600 with a 150 grain tip might be close. does that sound crazy?

Twan, carbon reacts different from any other material. Just on my own thoughts, I think that is borderline stiff. Add another inch and you should be close due to the low stretch string. If you're shooting off the shelf it may take another inch of shaft.

Carbon resists bending more and recovers faster from bending then any other synthetic, so it is its own material for sure. If you want a 600, then start at 30 inches with that tip weight first, then you can cut them down a little at a time. You may be able to shoot a 28" 600 with the low stretch string but you need to just give it a try. You can shorten them as you go, but you can't lengthen them as easily.

What G.S said!

Twan .... One thing I didn't do when I made my first arrows was calculate the weight of finished arrow. I bought carbon shafts for my 45lb longbow, chose my point and started cutting the shaft until I got the bare-shaft arrow flight I wanted. I then fletched them for a finished arrow. But at the end, I had less than the recommended arrow weight (9 gr/lb) suggested by the bowyer. I probably would have been OK, but I ended up switching to 50gr brass inserts to add weight, which of course could mess up the arrow tune. You may want to figure out the final weight you want before you start cutting shafts.

Good note on net weight from Hokie, but you just get to that by way of the GPI rating for the shaft + point weight + what, 25-30 grains for nock and a standard insert? Maybe a little more for fletchings?

Stu Miller’s calculator is a big help with all of that, BTW....

And FWIW, there’s nothing magical about 9 GPP; if you end up with a well-tuned rig at 8 or 10, there’s no big penalty (though personally, I like some extra speed!)

Important question: do you have access to a cut-off saw?

If so, I’d start full length with the points you want to use and cut them down 1/8” at a time. Otherwise, have them cut to your desired finished length, get a point weight test kit and some moleskin.

Leave those arrows full length. I think you will still need a 145 grain screw in point at that length.

Well the first thing I have to say is 'leave those arrow full length'.

Next thing is don't pay attention to anyone who told you arrow length and point weight. The reason I say that is because everyone's style of shooting is different from everyone else. What works for one person may not work for you. You have to figure it out for yourself. You could end up with a 27.5 inch shaft with 320 grains up front. Which would be pretty heavy.

I will say that .600 is a pretty good choice for a spine.

When you order arrows if you order from a place like 3Rivers you should get a 'Field Point Test Kit'. It contains an assortment of point weights. I hate to say it, but most kits contain 100 and 125 grain points which if you ended up tuned with one of those points you'd have a pretty light arrow. But they do have a use.

To start I'd use a bag target. One FULL LENGTH fletched arrow and one bare. Wrap celephane on the insert and stick them in the arrow. Put on a 200 grain point and read www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html click on 'download printable version'. This will tell you what a weak and stiff arrow is.

With full length and 200 grains hopefully you'll show weak, Then put on 125 tip and you should still show weak. That means you can feel free to cut. (and didn't cut them too short)

Now, I know that's a problem, and then the title of you next thread should be 'can anyone near the town of XXXX in Colorado cut arrows for me. AND that's the reason I don't like to tell anyone length and point weight. It can cost them a doz arrows if your wrong. This is a PITA, but you'll be tuning the way you should and get it right with the first doz you buy.

Don't worry about it being a PITA. When you get it done you'll be a smarter archer.

Bowmania

I don't know about Twan, but I don't like my arrows more than an inch longer than my draw...two at the most.

Bowmania is spot on. Tuning is something you need to do for yourself. As others have said 600 spine is a good starting point. You can cut carbons easily with a dremel tool and fiber wheel. Cutting carbons is no big deal. 1/4" cuts at a time and don't be in a hurry. I usually tune over several days time. If you aim off your arrow and want a close point on, you might try black eagle 34" arrows in 500 spine, otherwise I'd start w full length 600s and tune to your bow.

600.....DONT.....CUT...until you get it figured out.

I'm with George...I detest overly long arrows.

If you are going to use 600's cut close to your draw length, take verything off the sight window. Yes, that includes the calf hair plate. I fool with cows all the time, and have an entire tanned cow hide that I've been using for tabs and so on for many years.

You aren't going to find a piece on a cowhide that is less than about 1/8" thick. That correlates in to decreasing the static spine requirement of that bow by 10lbs. right there. Then, if you only draw 26.5 to 27 inches, that's another 5lbs.. So...just depending on the string you are using, what kind of silencers you have on the string, and YOUR shooting dynamics, you have decreased the static spine requirement of the bow around 15lbs..

Start with a piece of masking tape on the sight window, then shoot as Bowmania described (with whatever length and point weight you decide to use). If the arrows group to the right of a vertical line on the target, they are weak. You can add material to the sight window to move the impact to the left, or, you can decrease tip weight. (this is assuming you are right handed).

If the arrows group to the left of the vertical line, they are stiff, you are going to need longer shafts, or more tip weight. And, as Bowmania said, don't mess with weighted inserts or any of that foolishness. Buy a test kit of field points.

Once you get the bow shooting like you want it, measure the thickness of the strike plate, and duplicate it with the hardest, thinnest leather you can find, or, even thin wood veneer. Adding soft material will change the tune. Maybe slightly enough you can readjust with brace height....or not. The softer the material, the more cahnge it will make.

With respect to George and Frank. The name of this thread is 'Need Arrow Help'. Most likely Twan doesn't have enough experience to know whether or not 5 inches of arrow in front of the bow is going to bother him.

In my mind, without being on site if we can get him to group arrows that fly straight. Once he has some experience if he feels like you guys he may know more about gpp and decide to shorten and add pt weight.

For the record, I can't stand it either, but we know how to tune.

Bowmania

All the answers are here. A potential problem is we assume every knows what we know. 600 will get you where you want to be. Don't cut them until you get back here with the results. One thing at a time is way less confusing. >>>----> Ken

I could care less how much arrow is sticking past my bow. I like the added arrow weight. I get, we are all different, and that is Great! I don't use the arrow tip to aim, so it just doesn't matter.

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