From: scot520
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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Needs some help tuning my self bow. First off the bow is 48# @ 27.5'' draw. fast flight string with a brace height of 6.5'' I tried to bare shaft some doug fir arrows I already had, they were 60-65 and at 28'' with a 125 head still showed weak. My confusion comes in when I took carbon 500 spine arrows from my longbow that are 5.7gpi and a 22 grain outsert with a 250 head and they fly perfect. Just seems like a sin to shoot carbon from a self bow. Thanks for any help
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From: fdp
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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What are you making the weak determination based on? Impact, nock kick what?
.550 spine carbons with 250 grains on the front are going to have a dynamic spine reaction of arrows of about 50lb. spine. It's the diameter of the shafts throwing off your alignment.
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From: scot520
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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impact
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From: Dkincaid
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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Those 60-65 are giving a false reaction they are too stiff Iām betting by 15-20#
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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Yes way to stiff. The carbons are much closer but they still need all that weight up front. You need woodies spined around 40 to 45 pounds. Maybe the arromkr will chime in here in a bit. A call to Surewoods will fix you up with the correct shaft. They are very good to deal with. Good luck. >>>----> Ken
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From: Mike E
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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Yes I'm thinking way too stiff also, 45-50 would be where I would start. Is your bow backed how much shelf do you have?
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From: stkbow
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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It is a sin to shoot carbons from a Selfbow. Shoot woods of the bow weight with 145 160 points works on all of mine,, maybe five lbs under if you want to shoot 125,,,
Old rule of thumb, selfbows 5lb under draw,, glass lam 5lb over draw weight,,,
If you start there and adjust point weight you should get it dialed in,,
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From: Iwander
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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I guess I take the dummy approach. First checking tiller with center of bow 2" or so below the rest, install a nocking point 5/8 Above the Rest, grab a bunch of different spined arrows that appear to be 10 or 15 pounds above and below what I need . Then shoot all those arrows several times at about 10 to 20 yards. After a few trips back and forth to the target it's apparent what arrow that self bow is going to need.
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From: Bjrogg
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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Try experimenting a bit more with bareshafting. Try a heavier point if you have one. By impact I'm guessing your saying where it's hitting target? I usually bareshaft watching arrows flight. I shoot from about 6 yards and watch tail of arrow. For right handed shooter, If arrow is flying with tail to the right it's to stiff. Either longer shaft or heavier point to correct problem. If arrow is flying tail to the left spine is to weak. Either shorten shaft or lighter point. It might seem confusing but if you try changing point weight you will begin to see what's happening.
Bjrogg
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From: PEARL DRUMS
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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45-50 with 125 grains up front. Cut to 29" BOP. bump that brace up 1/4-3/8".
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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What Pear Drums said, you are way too stiff with those you have. It's what we old people call proper spine to start. And depending how far out from center you are, you may even need 160 grains on those 45-50.
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From: badger
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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How far from center is the arrow pass?
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From: Hal9000
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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Make a mark on your hand and a mark on the grip.. as if you were looking straight down, rotate the bow a little to the right or left.. play with it until the arrow flies straight to the mark. The marks are for reference. If the arrow flies straight to the mark but you do not get clean arrow flight, play with the nockset, etc., or could very well be a spine issue.
The direction of the arrow is related to where your hand is in the grip and string travel. The quality of flight is spine, which isn't as critical as most make it out to be.
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From: Bender
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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whut dkincaid sed.
False weak indication caused by overly stiff arrow. Nock end whacks riser, driving that end left and the point right.
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From: Jimmy Blackmon
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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I'll be honest with you. I have about a thousand wood arrows. I've learned over time that every self bow is different. Because there are so many variables, I just look for the arrow that will shoot from that bow. I make the bow then bring out the arrows and start shooting. I have a dozen of this and a dozen of that. I just look for what works. I've shot 60# spine in 50# self bows. I didn't try and figure it out. I just found what worked and went with it.
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From: Therifleman
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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Once you find the correct spine for your bow it will shoot down the line. Enjoy the journey and tinkering--- you'll get there sooner than you think. Wapiti archery is a great resource for helping ypu find the right cedar arrow. They can provide shafts in several spine ranges. Like all bows, the proper arrow is the key.
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From: Ranman
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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My selfbow is 47#@28ā and I shoot Douglas fir 55/60 spine 30ā, with 145gn tip. I do like Jimmy, I just try several and see what flies well. Randy
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From: Bassman
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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What badger asked.Makes a big difference.
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From: George Tsoukalas
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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I agree with PD too...45-50#. More on my site.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/selfbowcare.html
Jawge
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From: George Tsoukalas
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Date: 26-Aug-18 |
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Leave them full length and cut as needed. Jawge
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