I use split vision up close and locate my nocking point to correspond with this. Usually, all my shots are 20 and under for hunting.

If I set up to shoot 3D, I will adjust my arrow length and nock point to change my PO to 25 yards and aim 4-6 inches lower out to 10-15 yards. This is with a longbow and heavy wood arrows.

If I am shooting a Warf recurve and lighter arrows, will have less arc in the arrow and have a 30 yd PO. My gap is the same with both rigs that way.

My shooting has become automatic over the years with a three-under, middle finger in corner of the mouth anchor.

My recurves all have a flipper 2 and button, while my LB's are shot off the shelf.

I see the main focus at target and the arrow is in my peripheral. I see the arrow and hold the whole shaft like a shotgun barrel on the target. My main focus is on the target.

At longer ranges, I have to hold and aim harder, pull through the shot emphasis.

If my form is good, clean release, it is as deadly as a compound bow to 30 yards.

The key is practice!

I must do bale work and keep my foundation/arms and fingers/back muscles all in good fitness so my 40-45 pound bows are easy to control.

If I notice that mt Bow stacks at FD, I need more fitness.

I do the bale and actually, aim because I am past some of the TP in my shot.

I draw, aim, do not commit, let down to stay in control.

Much the same here.

What does "do not commit" mean?

What does "aim harder" mean? With iron-sighted rifle that would screw up aim.

I'm practicing let down with heaviest bow (60+?): It's harder to let down with heavyier bow than with lighter bows..

Draw, anchor, hold/aim(gap), shoot, 55# recurve.

I count distance in ten yard units, but do not apply any numbers to aim/sight picture. Split finger release with a tab, anchor is first finger below arrow at corner of mouth.

Do not commit is the same as saying, I am gonna shoot the arrow.

I do not aim harder, I do refine my aim with any rifle or scope if I have the time? Dis Precision rifle on an SRT team for too many years.

Yes, at my damage level with my left arm, I cannot do more poundage, only half a bicep, from a mishap on the job.

So do I Wild Bill. Went to a school for the use of Mils, know comeups on rifles but I estimate range in increments too.

Within 100 yards in tens, over one hundred in 20's, over 200 in 50's, over three hundred in 100's.

You look at your objective and break it down into halfs or thirds.

I don't consciously estimate range at all, although I know I am. I use the same sighting reference/anchor, and arrow length all the time.

Simply point the entire length of the arrow at the target, look at the target, and put the majority of thinking into ensuring that the shot sequence feels right, and is executed properly As long as I do that, I know the arrow is going where it should.

I also see the arrow in my peripheral vision, but as I said, I don't conscoiuosly worry about where it is

I can stop the shooting sequnce anywhere along the way right up until I actually relax my hand and turn the string loose.

Both eyes open look at intended target to hit. never look at nock or arrow to line anything up.

I use the Schwartz!

I keep both eyes open, to squint takes away my depth perception.

Reverse engineering using instinctive shooting as base. When I was shooting instinctive the bow hand elevation and the anchor were orienting the arrow toward a specific point on the target without acknowledging it. I was aiming the arrow intuitively. Now I am doing the same thing but I know where the arrow should be in peripheral vision. Split vision for me is my favorite aiming system, no matter if is 5m or 60m. Attention primary is on the point I want to hit, the fine adjustment happens in peripheral vision at full draw. The rest is just practice with a specific arrow shot from a specific bow.

...I mentioned a 60# bow...didn't mean to recommend that, only mentioned it because it's tougher to hold for a few seconds than is a lighter than my 50ish # bows.

It's less effective to practice letting-off with a bow that makes that easy (e.g. 30#) than it is to practice with a bow that wants me to let-off (e.g. 60#)

btw, I meant LET-DOWN, not "stop my shooting sequence" (not let-off either). Stopping shooting sequence results in bad shot.

Let down completel and start again means fresh start, potential for good shot.

Very good to let down when something is not right.

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