I am curious to hear what glue u folks use to glue aluminum footings on carbon shafts? I always used gorilla glue blue cap. But sometimes on hard impact the footing would come loose and slide up the shaft an inch or so then reglue? Lol would like to avoid this, since it makes the footing useless. And basically ruins the arrow since I can't get it to slide back down with out destroying the arrow. Specifically, I am footing Easton trad axis .600s with a 1916 . Thanks in advance

J B Weld or golf shaft epoxy. The epoxy is formulated to take the shock of the club head hitting the ball. Prep is very important as well.

Always used AAE expoxy for footings, and never lost one. The other day I built some Beman MFX Classics,and I swear the included insert epoxy is just like AAE. So I gave it a go. The Axis should come with the same epoxy, and they give you more than enough for inserts.

Original JB Weld which has a 15 to 24 hour cure time.

G-Flex or T-88 because I always have it around.

A lot of you have mentioned prepping properly. Explain to me your procedures please. I think I just clean the outside of the carbon well and then as well as cleaning the inside of the aluminum footing.

I have used Loc-tite gel superglue with good results. Prep is simple, wipe the shaft and q-tip inside the footing with denatured alcohol first.

Ive been using the Gorilla 2 part 5 minute set epoxy. Have not had one come loose yet.

Some kind of epoxy. Super glue is brittle and doesn't resist shearing.I often temporary glue knife parts together in a couple of spots for match drilling. A side rap will separate them for later work. >>>----> Ken

I use steel wool to scuff the surface of the carbon shaft, and a little sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to scuff up the inside of the footing. Clean both surfaces with acetone or denatured alcohol. I thread a small diameter point into the insert to make sure no glue gets inside, then apply glue to both surfaces and place the footing on the shaft using a spinning action. I remove the small point, cleanup any excess glue, and thread a large point into the insert. Make sure the footing is seated against the point and set the shaft to the side to cure.

Should mention that the footing needs to be beveled on the back edge. So before the final prep takes place I place the footing in the chuck of a drill and spin it against an abrasive stone or file to create the bevel.

I wish soemone would start making a tapered, glue in insert with no shoulders on it for carbon shafts. That would eliminate 80% of the problems with shafts needing to be footed for durability.

Actually, I believe that if the insert didn't have shoulders that jammed back in to the edge of the walls of the shaft on impact, they would be as durable as they with the footing.

Hot melt, scuff and clean inside of footing and the shaft.

Thanks guys. I will try the epoxy that came with the shafts. And I will make sure to do a better job of cleaning and prepping. I have never had axis arrows before and these where given to me by easton. So it's not a big loss to experiment. Working at a bow shop has a lot of perks.

If there wasn't a shoulder they would drive back into the shaft. It would be easy to turn or file one off if you want to try it. >>>----> Ken

What 2 bears said

Even if it didn't have a shoulder, the point would push back against the arrow. Easton's HIT inserts don't have a shoulder, and they don't come close to the durability of a footed arrow.

Yup, if the insert has no shoulder the point will do the same damage. Seen it in the Axis and MFX. Footing solves it.

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