Once again doing some close in work 12 yards. Want to be consistent before I start moving back. Is this consistered nock high. And what can be done to correct it. 2114 29" shaft #46 . Thanks.

Once again doing some close in work 12 yards. Want to be consistent before I start moving back. Is this consistered nock high. And what can be done to correct it. 2114 29" shaft #46 . Thanks.

Looks like the target is setting on the ground. You're always going to be nock high. If you aren't you're going to be wraong shooting level.

Get the target up to chest height.

fdp I will do that Thanks

Don't bare shaft tune using a bag target. No matter how new or now well packed. Use a broadhead target level with you.

And to add to what Buglimin said, don't pay any attention to nock orientation. Only worry about getting fletched, and bareshafts impacting together.

Nock orientation is the most unreliable indicator of arrow tune that an archer can use,

Looks to me like you're real close to spine and nocking point height. Time to move back a few yards and do it again, and again and again.

:^)

I would not be concerned with those nocks. The little things don't show up until you get out to 20 yards. then you can go as far As you can shoot groups. >>>----> Ken

A wear or soft spot on a bag will let the arrows do that Just less material to stop the arrow so the point stops inside and the wear spot will let the shaft send the energy forward,,so they follow the weak spot Looks good to me To qoute John Shultz,,"Dont over think it",,,,,now back up little more and loose

see what the nock is doing planning in the air before the target not in the target

can go any which way in the target

First off, don't bare shaft tune, bare shaft plane. Looks like you're doing that. BUT you should know www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html click 'download printable version' for the broadhead tuning at the end.

Get your target off the ground. That in it of it's self may help with nock high.

Move back and see what happens. It looks to me like your in the fine tuning area. When your comfortable with the impacts at 20 or farther the nock problem may be gone.

If you have a bit of a problem and you used TWO tie in nocking points, you can move them up or down one thread of serving. Your shot has to be pretty good for that. Read the following

Here's the best practice tip I've ever discovered. Ask yourself what do feathers do??? They cover up mistakes. Right? Now, ask yourself, why would I practice with something that doesn't show my mistakes? HEY, I don't have an answer fot that question!

Don't do it because I do it, do it because it makes sense. I do probably over 50% of my practice without fletching. This way I can judge not only the location of the impact on the target, but also how the arrow impacted in a 90 degree plane to the target. The same is always better than once a little left and then the next a little r.

Be careful if your at the edge of you accuracy distance or have a small target. Arrows without feathers are hard to find. I have big targets and rarely go beyound 30.

It's really fun to shoot a blue face at 20 yards. You don't reck any fletching and any score 22 or over is out friggin' standing.

Bowmania

I should have been more specific on tie on nocking points. You can pull them tight and leave the tail ends long for tuning. THEN they can be turned and moved up or down. When you find the sweet spot, pull them tight and glue.

Bowmania

You can't improve on what Bowmania just said in the above post. I will commit it to memory. He is a good archery instructor also.>>>----> Ken

I want to add a bit to Bowmania's points. 1. Yup, feathers are there to cover flaws in releases and arrows not perfectly matched to the bow and archer. So the perfectly tuned and perfectly released arrow does NOT need fletching. Of course, we ain't perfect so fletching is needed. But...

2. This applies to broadhead shoots and testing too. The perfect arrow will fly identically whether there's a field point or broadhead on the end. The reason for separate broadhead shoots is because the arrow wasn't perfect in the first place and it often takes the planing effect of the broadhead for the mis-tune to show, especially with carbons.

3. Related is my regular comment that I believe many archers are better shots than they think they are. Carbons are very forgiving, trying to fly right and often delivering groups "good enough" to fool the archer that good enough is the same as good-as-it-gets. Nope 'tisn't.

Rick R

I'd agree with Rick's last point - wholeheartedly. The closer I got to putting fletched and bare shafts into the same group, the smaller the groups seemed to get.

And the first time that you take the nock off of a fletched shaft by hitting it with a bare shaft (or vice-versa) - it's a revelation.

So far, I've got one bow tuned precisely enough that I can shoot (bare) pretty accurately at 20 yards, but some weird ju-ju happens at about 25 and by 30, I can get the shafts dropping like a big-league sinker or breaking right and missing by a yard or two.

Thanks GF. As that bare shaft slows it loses aerodynamic stability, so my point about identical flight is at shorter distances before the shaft runs out of sufficient thrust.

If you think the perfectly tuned arrow does not need fletching spend some time shooting bareshafts in windy conditions. I would have expected the fletched shafts to be more affected by wind, however the fletching helped stabilize them and allowed them to hit on target. If the wind was coming from the right side it would cause the bareshafts to fly to the right as it kicked the tail to the left as a weather vane---the shaft veered off to the right (yes these were very well tuned bareshafts).

I tune my bareshafts very carefully over a period of days and sometimes weeks to verify and re-verify as I go. I can get them to impact with fletched shafts out to 30 yards. I keep a bareshaft with me whenever shooting around the farm and have learned a great deal from that shaft. I enjoy the process, but after spending time outdoors in the wind here, I do see the reason that we put feathers on shafts.

Whenever tuning for nock height shoot a target that is level with your shoulders.

You are shooting down ,the arrow is leaving the bow at about 5ft hitting at about 2 ft ,,its may be the angle,,put the target at shoulder height and see what happens

OK guys thanks for the advice. I moved a target to about chest height, Shot this from about 12 yds. Tomorrow I'm moving back to 17- 20 and see what happens. Thanks Again

I have no idea how a guy named Therifleman could do the exact same think I do.

"I tune my bareshafts very carefully over a period of days and sometimes weeks to verify and re-verify as I go. I can get them to impact with fletched shafts out to 30 yards. I keep a bareshaft with me whenever shooting around the farm and have learned a great deal from that shaft."

Either neither one of us knows what we're talking about or we both do.

Therifleman I toast my next shot of tequila to you!!!

Bowmania

Hahaha. Thanks Todd! Im afraid sometimes i get more absorbed in the mechanics of tuning than perhaps i should be. I enjoy a puzzle and seeing what my equipment will do under varying circumstances.

Ok so I backed up to 17 yards. Arrow flew nice and straight. Should I be concerned about the arrow impact Thanks.

TTT

You might lower your nocking point just a tad. That may bring the nock down and the impact even closer. Remember the bare shaft has nothing to correct it. It tends to fly the way it leaves the bow, unless it strikes something to deflect it (give a false reading). You are getting close though.>>>----> Ken

I will give that a try. Thanks Ken.

In the 4 pictures above the last 2 you have the bare and fletched impacting in the same planes both vertically, and horizontally. That's what you are looking for.

In the last 2 pictures the impact has changed. The fletched shaft is above the bare. Did you cahnge something? If so, change it back. If not, then you might be getting a little mental overload and are trying to "plae" the arrows rather than sht them.

Watch the amount of pressure you put on the botom of the nock with your finger. I shoot two nock sets as well

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