To much gap for your air hose. I wouldn't want anything more than 11 1/2" space between. JF

Could be too much gap in the air hose.

But, more than likely, you extended the laminations more than a quarter inch past the riser belly side on glue up. If you leave too much overhang, when the hose presses down on the ends/butts of the lamination stack, it acts as a lever taking the bend out of stack, causing it to pull away from the curve

There's the outside chance it might also be a design issue. Can't see the rest of the concave part of the riser, but may be too steep and/or irregularly sloped, making it difficult to keep the laminations/glass compressed on it.

Too, the lamination and/or glass may be too thick/stiff to take the bend unless more pressure is applied. Difficult to determine thickness from the pix, but that's a possibility.

Have you got a picture aired up before the oven?

Can't tell from the pix where the limb butts are, but if you did what I think you did, the fix is to not extend the limb butts much past the flat side of the riser at glue up, as noted above, AND place a small block of wood on the riser belly that is at least as high as the limb buts extend above the riser. That way, there's a smooth transition for the air hose across the belly side of the riser, and it can't lever the limb butts away from the riser.

BTW, extending the limb butts too far up onto the riser will also sometimes lead to the lams slipping as the pressure hose works on them because it's not only pushing down, but also longitudinally.

Good luck on the next layup.

Don't know how steep your ramps are, but I never go that thick on my belly lams. Personally I would do two .045s, Orion might be on to something with extending to far past ramps into the flat part of riser. Carl

Even the part with glue in it is a pretty thick glue line.X2 above about the butt extension but I'd put a wedge between the form and hose in that area.

Oops 1 1/2" do use a pressure strip. Thin 20 gauge piece of metal under your hose. This spreads out the irregular shape of the hose. The hose still has vumps in it. JF

Hard to see but I have a spacer block on top of the riser,so the hose won't push on the end of the glass. That can take the glass and or wood up off the bellys. JF

One of the reasons I went back to clamps years ago. It took an old time bowyer to convince me, but he was right.

Thats a real bummer, sorry. Maybe you could grind off the squeeze out and give it a good examination. It's hard to tell conclusively from a picture, with all that smootz on there.

It's very easy to tell guys. The clamping pressure from the hose wasn't sufficient.

It is a bummer, but happens to nearly everybody at some point.

Was your air hose still at the same pressure after it was cooked?

Make sure your hose dosn't have a slow leak.

Sometimes using a 1/4" thick piece of rubber helps make it more "forgiving" of form imperfections.Old Master Crafters used to sell them.Also the pickup topper foam strip works for single use.

Look at Bodymanbowyer's pix again. That's what I was explaining earlier. That spacer keeps the hose from using the limb butts at the corner of the riser from acting as a fulcrum to leverage the lamination from the belly. Notice that he also has an extra wedge between the form and the hose at the middle of the belly curves to add additional pressure in that area.

Man I hate that for you. If you don’t do a dry run,(all parts, no glue, hose aired up) , I would try that . Then you can look the joints over without the glue covering everything.

Whenever I use a form for the first time I do a dry layup turn off the lights and put a lamp behind the form looking for light

Im sorry the bow did not glue up for you. Would you sell this bow? Maybe I can doctor it up and it still shoot. What poundage is it? thanks Steve

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