Givi g platinums a try, 1916s, anyone use these for humting? How do they hold up?

I'm going to use 1916 platinum plus arrows this year for hunting. I don't think there will be any problems. Hopefully others who have used them will chime in.

They will hold up just fine, similar in looks to the old 24SRT-X from the early days...but stronger tensile strength. Same material as the camo models T-9 process.

Just FYI, they are heads-above the old Swift material or even the original dark green Gamegetters when it comes to strength. Your only issue may be to hit the right spot. I know that is more of my issue as well. Have fun, you won't have to worry about those Platinum arrows.

There are same tensile strength as Legecy and camo XX75’s. I am refurbishing a set for the third time. No, I don’t shoot them everyday. But lately have been as my supplyof AO in that size has dwindled to 4. Yes, they bend but not like those GG they sell now. My only complaint is the arrows get hot in our summer sun.

George: I thought platinums were X7 alloy? Bob

XX75 PLATINUM PLUS

About The Product

Platinum Plus is a premium, intermediate priced shaft for all levels of recreational and competitive archery.

Find A Dealer Specifications 7075-T9 aerospace alloy Hard-anodized finish Guaranteed Straightness: ± .002 Weight Tolerance: ± 1%

Yup, the Platinum plus is still a step below the quality of the X7 shafts.

xx75's have always been a economical, durable shaft material,if you're hitting rocks not much will last.

I have a couple dozen or so...great shafts.

1916s are one of the all time great shafts for middle weight bows to 50# and for light weight ones down to 35# or so with a long draw and heavy point. They are reasonably tough, clearly more durable that 1816s and 1914s. With the long shank NIBB target points they we often survive hits on concrete, rock or steel.

All of the 1916 models and colors shoot equally well for me, Platinums, Jazz in blue or purple, Legacy in woodlike grain, or the cheaper Tribute in black. They are all in my practice quiver and group together to 60 yards. I have one Platinum left from about 25 years ago that I use all the time. It must have been shot 10s of thousands of times.

My new Platinums I save for special occasions; I mostly use the economical Tributes. Their black suits my eye better than purple does.

My all time favorite shaft, after Port Orford Cedar. - lbg

I have used these for Competition since 2010 when I started tournament shooting again. I have a Dz 1913s (11 now) that in the last 3 years, outdoors have been through 2 state Fields (112 arrows per tourney) 1, 5 day NFAA Nationals (minimum 476 shots), NFAA National Target (150 shots) A state target (90 shots) & several 3 Ds + all the back yard practice. Just built 10 new ones (1716s)for targets this year. Lancaster Archery sells them $4.42 ea. + point or insert (your choice).I figure completed arrow cost me $62.00 for the 10. Target points were $12.50. I think they are great. Indoor will be 2712s this year in the X7..

I have been shooting the full length 1916 platinums out of 45# bows with a 175 grain point.

Riverwolf, yes the X7 has more tensile strength, but can also shatter versus bend so it's kinda give and take there. I like the XX75 since I have a straightener. ;)

Years ago I bought 2016 Platinums for hunting. The color was perfect in all lighting and background conditions for my gap shooting style. Recently I bought 1916 Platinum for 3D competition and found that the newer shafts are many shades darker, to my dismay. Also, the newer nock inserts are supposed to provide a protection from an occasional "robin hood" during practice. I wouldn't hesitate to use them for hunting.

Platinum, Game Getter (black), Camo Hunter and Legacy all share specs, except GG's have a looser straightness tolerance. IO like the black GG's but they come in limited spines. If you need 1816's or 2018's the camo's are the way to go.

Not sure Platinums come with inserts - target shooters often use glue-in nibs - so camos may be a slightly better deal.

Guys -

You can go to the Easton website and get all the information you need or want.

Just curious, how many people here think they can shoot the difference between any of the arrows listed there? Or, think that one type of arrow will survive a specific trauma better than another?

Personally, I would look at the features (type of nocks, color) rather than PSI or trueness. Even the most critical aspects of spine and weight consistency are better than most people can shoot.

Anyway, I use P+ and X7s because I prefer push-in nocks and I like the colors...

Viper out.

Viper, you’re right about seeing difference in shafts except colors. I prefer the shafts with higher tensil strength. I know from pasted experience the shafts become bent. Wheather it from hard hits, pulling from targets incorrectly or what. The more the cheaper shafts are bent and re straightened the weaker the metal becomes.

M60 -

The "higher" PSI X7 have been reported to "shatter". Well, back when I was shooting the indoor stuff a lot (like 1000 - 1500 shots/week), I had one X7 develop a crack without any obvious trauma; and that shaft was at least 10 years old. Likewise, I've never had a problem with an arrow bending when being pulled out of a target.

Do I believe a 10 year old aluminum arrow is as straight as it was when it left the factory? No. Do I believe it matters? Likewise, no. Sure, the fracture patterns (due to trauma) of a XX75 and an X7, will be slightly different, but they are still fracture patterns, rendering the shaft a tomato stake.

Frankly, I just doubt the difference between 90/95K and 105K PSI making all that much of a functional difference.

And bro, if you're re straightening arrows that often, maybe the shaft material isn't your biggest concern? Just bustin' yer shoes.

Viper out.

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