Does anyone have the dimensions to build one of these? For heat treating self boes.

What are the radius's, what is the distance from the high point to the low point?

I roughly copied a Gary Davis form that I saw at Twin Oaks. I modified it some but no much. You establish you curves by using a series of dots that you will connect later. Lets say your form in 66" long. No deflex just reflex. Using this method you will have a progressive curve.

Start at each end of the form and make a series of dots starting level with the back of the bow and make another dot each 1/4" going upward. Suppose you want your form to have 3 1/2" reflex. You will need 14 dots 1/4" apart going straight up. Now divide your limb into 14 equal parts drawing a line across the face of your caul. Use a yardstick and start at your line closest to the handle. Hold the yardstick on the firt dot starting up and the other end at the first line nearest the handle, Draw a straight line from the first line to the second line. Now move your yardstick to the second dot going up and line it up to where the first line you drew intersects the second position on your cawl and draw a line from that point to where it intersects the 3rd line going across your cawl, Repeat this all the way to the end. It will give you a nice progressive curve.

I'm the same as Badger. I built one following Gary Davis's directions on his Rattlestick bow building DVD. I made a second form with a bit more reflex.

I figure out how much reflex I want, and how I want it oriented in the limb, then use a piece of fiberglass stood on its edge to replicate the curve. Trace it and cut it out.

I also have a long set of ellipse drafting templates in varying degrees that work from slight reflex to recurve. They make it super easy, just pick the one I want, but I doubt anyone else here has a set of those laying around :^)

I believe he is asking for the dimensions rather than how to do it. I like both the graph and the curved glass method. Isn't the actual dimensions more of a personal preference for what you are trying to accomplish? >>>----> Ken

That's why I didn't post dimensions. Each person may have their own preferences, which could change from one bow to the next. There are no rules.

I do the majority of my free lance cawls the same way Jeff does. I have flat piece of flexable fiberglass I just lay down in the shape I want, I then drive in a few nails to hold in place so I can trace it.

OK, thank you for the answers. I will see what I can come up with.

I do like Jeff, but with an aluminum ruler. There are no specific numbers that work. Everyone has their own beliefs. What I will say is if you decide to make a full length caul, make d*mn sure each side is identical, otherwise you wont get a symmetrical bow off it. Half cauls are nice, but aren't the easiest to straighten limbs laterally.

I do like Jeff also but my caul is for half a bow. Heat one end then the other Helps when a knot is in one end of the handle area. Arvin

Arvin's form makes a nice shooting bow. I shot with his buddy Phil Johnston the last few days and he shoots an Arvin bow quite well. I have an extreme D/R adjustable caul but I think I still prefer the Gary Davis copy that I have used for many years.

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