see a lot of longbows now where they use one piece of material and just make it like an capital L - only backwards- then wolfe on you tube who wins a few gold medals, cuts material off the wood shelf on an angle for more feather clearance- then my older friends some with archery shops say you need a trough between the arrow and the side plate on the bow - lot of different ideas out there dr

Actually the trough idea is an oldie. Something I do on my LB. Does it really work as advertised? Beats me but I do it anyway. I probably get more benefits from using left wing fletch. Ya, lots to ponder.

Watch archers paradox video.

The arrow bends around the riser/rest area...why would you use trough? How you get good clearance is about spine and tuning, and of course limited contact. Many ways to work that out.

I actually use a piece of veneer hardwood, or something similar on the sight window, and something hard on the arrow shelf as well.

Personally I detest rugs, velcro, or anything else soft touching the arrow unless I am trying to manipulate a spine requirement.

My longbow came setup like you mention and the bend in "L" shape prevented the arrow from touching the strike plate on the side, unless it was forced. I didn't notice it right away but after I did I cut the bottom off and put new material on the shelf. Now it touches the strike plate as I draw and shoots much better.

Trimming the outside of the arrow shelf can reduce the possibility of some feather contact, but that can be achieved with nock orientation to "turn" the feathers for greatest shelf clearance and/or increasing the nock height.

A trough in the shelf near the side plate serves no purpose because, as George pointed out, the arrow doesn't pass there when it flexes around the riser.

Using an L shaped piece of leather or other material for a rest and side plate is not a new thing. Folks have been doing it as long as shelves have been cut into the side of bows.

I don't care for the way an L shape fits on a crowned shelf, loose on one end or both. I use 2 pcs but don't leave a gap.

para rest worked good on my longbow

I glued wooden-match-dimensioned strips of hard leather across the shelves of my longbows and Groves recurve. Gives the elevation I want with far less drag than all-leather shelf, infinitely less drag than rug rests.

If rig is tuned it don't matter unless the shelf is overly wide. Old habits never go away.>>>----> Ken

Properly tuned arrows may not make contact with the rest and side plate when launched, but they sure do on the draw. I use rug rests or Velcro to quiet the draw.

MP

As stated a wide rest will do that. Yes velcro,carpet,leather,or hair is used to quieten the draw but it doesn't require gaps. In fact if the gap was too big you would be right back where you started with contact on the barebow when the shaft fell in. Rick has some excellent threads and pictures on getting clearance. Total clearance should be the goal.Two fletch makes it extremely easy but it is all good. >>>----> Ken

Interesting discussion. I can't help but wonder if the old timers of our sport worried about such things. :o)

As an old timer,I don't think they did,nor did Native Americans. They just did what worked. We/they were not subjected to all the thoughts, ideas,and tales. A lot have come about from the internet.There were no compounds,no glass,and not even any velcro.With no money involved there were few scientific studies.Now it is a multi billion dollar industry.Not sure we are that much better off. I love a good selfbow.>>>----> Ken

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