So ive got a 40# longbow and Im looking to get some aluminum arrows. My draw length is almost 29". The bow is an old 50's style Bear with a narrow shelf. Id like to put 125 -145 points on.

What aluminum would you suggest.

So ive got a 40# longbow and Im looking to get some aluminum arrows. My draw length is almost 29". The bow is an old 50's style Bear with a narrow shelf. Id like to put 125 -145 points on.

What aluminum would you suggest.

from the information I would guess/start with 1816, possibly 1916

I'd guess 1716 but maybe 1816

Agree with Andy.

You know one of the first things I would do is check the draw weight on that old bow. Sometimes the writing doesn't correspond with the weighing.

1916's cut to 31" with 145...the 125 might work.

I would go with Andy.

Full length 1816's with 160gr up front.

JMO.... And not specific to any particular bow, but the answer really comes down to time and money (what else is new? And why should Archery be any different from everything else?)

First question: How meticulous are you prepared to be? Do you want to be able to shoot bare shafts at 20 paces, or do you want to be able to hit a gallon jug reliably as long as you do your part reasonably well?

Because you can really get off into the weeds with arrow selection if you’re so inclined, or you can check the arrow chart, cut to the desired length, put on 4” or 5” helicals and never give it another thought. (I shot arrows that were much too stiff for over 20 years and never had a clue that I was doing it “wrong”)

Next question: do you want to be able to shoot the same arrow from several bows, or do you plan on dedicating the resources to one bow in particular?

I think the guys have you on the right track, but there may be some fine-tuning to be done based on where you want to come out. All else fails, just buy 2 each of 3 sizes - in your case probably 1716, 1816 and 1916 or 18, 19 and 20 if you like longer arrows or heavier points. Good news is that Lancaster sells shafts individually so you don’t have to commit to a half-dozen of any given size ‘til you know what you want.

Wow. GF, it doesn't have to be that complicated. Keep it simple.

I DID say that you can always consult the chart and go with plenty of fletching...

But it’s hard to steer anybody in the right direction if he doesn’t know where he wants to end up!

" But it’s hard to steer anybody in the right direction if he doesn’t know where he wants to end up! "

True that!

I'd recommend buying a half dozen 1816's and starting full length with your lighter desired point weight - 125 gr. If they seem a bit soft, trim a little off one and try again.

If they start out a bit stiff, try 145 grains.

Frist do as fdp suggested, then add another 2-3 pounds for your draw length to get a more accurate poundage.

GF makes some good points. And the 1716, 1816, or 1916’s can all be made to “work” out of that bow if the poundage and DL is accurate. Only through trial and error will you find the perfect arrow for your setup. That’s the fun part!

2016 will work. I have a similar setup and the 2016 w/125 points fly great. I think the 145 gr. will do well also.

Tundra

1816

Check the Easton arrow chart. It has never failed me.

FWIW....

Frank (FDP) knows his apples. And Rutabagas, for that matter....

Example: I draw about 27”; I shoot a 28” arrows and 125 grain points out of a Howattt/Martin Bamboo Viper high-performance LB, #50@28” (1816s); and from an RER LB, #55@28” (1916); and from a couple of #55@28” recurves (2016).

Bare Shaft, each bow wants its own, specific arrow, and each combo will shoot pretty nearly the same trajectory (at typical hunting range) because the GPP numbers and designs work out about right.

Fletched 3X4” or more, the longbows will shoot any one of the three shafts reasonably well.... using FPs, anyway. The recurves are fine with either 1916 or 2016, though I’m not sure offhand if I’ve tested them with the 1816s. I expect I could make do in a pinch. And I’m pretty sure that I could get the Genesis arrows (1820) to shoot from all 4, though I might have to mix point weights a bit. Trouble is, that would handicap the lighter longbows with higher GPP loads, and 1820s are STOUT, and I’d rather not have to recalibrate my brain every time I switch bows.

Plenty of ways to skin this cat.

Contact Lancaster Archery and order two of each size. LAS is the only place that I know will sell individual arrow shafts. Then bare shaft one, fletch one. Try them.

The best recommendation here is to have your bow tested for draw weight at your draw length. Once you know what it actually is (you might be surprised), Its simple math to get close in spine.

Listen to fdp first. There are a lot of variables, but I think you should be able to find a good arrow/point combination with 1816 or 1916. What you are shooting is close to what I shoot and a lot will depend on how close it is cut to center.

1816 full lenth,5.5" nanners (helical) for stump shooting..ron

Old bow use a old spine chart. One that was published back in the sixties or seventies. I have seen it here a few times. It was so simple guys used to memorize it.

Kinda hard to read. I'll see if I still have my old original Easton catalog from 1968. That's what I've always used.

Thanks fellas. I have a couple old 1816s that seem to be shooting ok. Bow doesn't appear to have lost a bit of cast. I'm just not sold on carbons and that's all anybody has in the shops any more. I'll try getting a few individuals so I can match the bare shafts with fletched.

Yes, I would like to have only a few arrow shafts that can be used with a number of bows instead of having exact match for each bow. When I hit the lottery, I'll have enough for us all to get a new dozen.

Yes Lancaster will sell you 1 shaft. But pts and inserts come in dz lots. I can send some 1816 and 1916 , 2016, inserts to try. Just give me an address and what size and I’ll send you some to try. Arrowchucker out

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