Anyone tried removing these type of old points? I tried heating them over a flame and turning with pliers, but that was a no-go even though it looked like a little hot melt oozed out. These are old 1918 shafts from the 50's or 60's and I'd like to make up half a dozen with inserts for hunting heads. Thanks!

I always used heat and pliers too. Just apply the heat to the point. It may take a couple of tries they have probably been in there quite some time. Hopefully they didn't use epoxy.You don't have enough length to cut them do you? >>>---> Ken

Even if they were epoxied in, heat should work. And since they are metal shafts they can handle some heat. Apply the heat up the shaft several inches, some of these points may extend 3 inches in.

MP

More heat.. longer area.NASP points seem to pop out a little just from air expanding from inside shaft.

Some nibbs are kind of long and they are probably expoxied in.Maybe try heating further down the shaft?I know I have had some old arrows I have bought that were very hard to remove even with heat!

NIBB-New Improved Balanced Bullet points fit snug as a bug. Heat will allow them to come out. Put the sides of the tip in a vice so you can use both hands. A piece of thin rubber will help grip so you can twist without danger of bending the shaft.

Thanks guys! I'll get after them with a little more gusto next time I get a chance to. No length to cut, they're the same length I always cut aluminum shafts to. I'll probably leave 6 as is and see how they fly for me before messing with all 12. Here's the first set of 6 so far, the cocks are from a Merriam's my buddy got in CO a few years ago:

And thanks for the correct spelling, Mr. Stout :)

Those look awesome. I love the old natural aluminum finish.

I like George's method best. Be careful of too much heat on the shaft though. It will make the aluminum brittle. Aluminium heat treats the opposite of steel.Keep at it. >>>----> Ken

Thanks guys. BOX CALL you're right that's what it says on 'em next to the 1918. What's you guys' opinion of when they're from?

I posted these pics on the arrow thread, just like to narrow it down. The guy that gave me a bunch of old gear passed about 10 years ago. He was an active tournament archer in the 50's and 60's. These were 6 fletched with short feathers for flight shooting maybe?

Damon are those the arrows you got from Glen? The 24 SRTX are soft and when you put the heat to them they may crack or twist when you try and pull or twist the point out. Try and keep your heat on the point and not so much the shaft. If they are from Glen I don't think they used epoxy back then. As George wrote, the NIB points fit snug. Just be careful with the heat.

Sounds logical, maybe kinda heavy for flight shooting. They were cool looking arrows, just a bit ragged. The plan is to use the orange set for targets and make up a green set for hunting. Planning on painting the full shaft on those for turkeys even though I agree with George about the natural aluminum finish.

Yes Jon, got these from Glen. Thanks for the info, I'll be as gentle as possible. If nothing else, I'll leave 'em all in and just shoot targets. Think it would be cool to shoot a turkey or deer with one tipped with a Razorhead from your Dad, though. Still have 3 unmounted ones!

I will see what I got when I get home in glue in inserts in 1918's for the hunting points and some nocks if I still have some. The bow I got from Glen snapped in half but I kept it. Will show it to you.

Cool deal, I'll bring the one I restored and something to trade, thanks Jon.

I've never personally removed these points. I believe my dad used to use a vice with a 2 wooden blocks that had grooves in them aligned to hold the arrows to prevent from collapsing the shaft. then he'd take a pair of vice grips to hold the point and lightly tap with a hammer to pull out. And to install, used a block of wood on the end of the point and tap in with a hammer against the wood block to prevent damaging the point. We personally didn't need to glue them in by design. They had ribs on the point shaft to prevent from coming out. Good luck, hope this works for you.

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