Need a bit of advise. I am trying to get arrows to tune out of my ILF recurve. I will start off by saying I want to use a 200g point and keep total arrow weight around 500g. My bow at my draw is 48#. It is a black onyx riser with is cut to center. I draw 28.5” So, 400 spine is showing stiff, 500 showing weak. I have been playing with lengths of arrow, (I don’t really want to shoot full length), brace height...I have not messed with the tiller(it is even) or padded out the rest. I have a very thin piece of calf hair on strike plate. I shoot split finger. I know some of the issue is my release, but I should be able to get something to work. Any advise will help.

Go with the 500 and move your side plate out. Easier to tune that to 500 then 400. I'm thinking a 30" arrow.

You say the 500 spine is showing weak, for a right hand shooter that would mean the arrow is printing to the right of the point of aim. There is three ways of correcting that. 1. increase the thickness of the strike plate. 2. shorten the length of the shaft. 3 reduce the point weight. If you don't like shooting a full length shaft then I would shorten it.

Bob

Wojo14,

You have the answer from what I consider the two best tuners that you will find.

OK, so if I pad out my strike plate I should be able to shoot weaker spines. I will try that. How much should I pad it out? ~Wojo

OK, so if I pad out my strike plate I should be able to shoot weaker spines. I will try that. How much should I pad it out? ~Wojo

Shorten shafts first then pad strike plate if necessary as necessary. Caution carbon gains stiffness quick as it is cut. Take it slow. >>>----> Ken

Try switching to velcro strike plate with the 500 and see if that is enough.

But I would let go of your preconceived arrow weight need. Back your weight down a little and you'll still have plenty of weight and you'll be done.

Wojo,

One more thing. You mentioned 'some of the issue is your release'. If you are suspicious about your release, don't waste a bunch of time bare shaft tuning. Shoot a tried and true setup and circle back later and check it again.

And once again George nailed it.

BUT He don't want to leave the arrows full length. Shouldn't he start there? I would. >>>>-----> Ken

Wojo: The easiest fix is to build out the strike plate. What I would do it take pieces of masking tape, add one at a time and shoot and add until it shoots to the line. Then remove all the tape and measure the thickness and increase the strike plate thickness by that amount. It probably will not take more than 1/16" but without seeing how much off the line you are, that's just a guess.

Bob

Shawn, I have FMJ 500 in that length. Way too weak with 200 up front. Will std 5/16 shaft really make that much differene -Wojo

Wojo14 I have no idea why they keep wanting you to fix other things first. If you don't want to shoot the arrows full length you need to shorten them first. They will get a lot stiffer. Then you will be back to square one with the strike plate when maybe it should not have been changed to start with. If the strike plate needs to be moved out aromakr stated the easiest way to find the right thickness. good luck. >>>----> Ken

You didn't mention what arrows you are using...but I have been surprised at how little difference you get with some carbons by changing the length an inch- inch and a half.

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