From: Lowcountry
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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Taken from another site - is this a fair question and an accurate statement?
"What is most important to you - grouping the same at 20-30-40 and 50 yards or having perfect tears in the paper? I had the same issue tuning my new bow and corrected it with walk-back tuning rather than worrying about paper tears. Paper tuning is a good starting point IMO. Grouping the same at various distances goes beyond that."
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From: Rick Barbee
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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I agree with that statement.
Paper tuning for a (stick bow) finger shooter is just a good starting point, but only then if you are doing it from a distance that is where the arrow has just come out of it's initial flex, which can vary from one shooter to the next, but generally about 9 to 15 feet.
Some shooters have enough experience with their tuning, and results, where they know the exact distance to shoot & paper tune for their best tear, and can nail things down pretty close with it, but many will (and most will need to) go ahead and bareshaft to confirm.
I get my best tears at 9 - 10 feet, but I still bareshaft to confirm, and most of the time I'm glad I do, which has lead me to skipping the paper tuning, and just go straight to the bareshafts from the get go.
Rick
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From: Jeff Durnell
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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I shot through paper once with a compound about 30 years ago. Does that count?
I've never been able to group the same at 50 yards as I could at 20.
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From: DarrinG
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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I've seen a few guys hit what they are aiming at..with poor arrow flight. I guess if you're punching paper or shooting foam, it don't matter. If you're a bowhunter, it does matter. Poor arrow flight robs penetration. Paper tuning is an exercise in futility, for me. Others maybe can do it consistently, I cant. I bareshaft tune.
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From: Shotkizer
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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Don't recommend paper tuning unless you are shooting a release. I bareshaft.
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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You don't get consistent "punching paper or foam" with ill-flying arrows that are out of tune. Most target shooters I know, and knew in the past were also bowhunters with just a few exceptions. My guess, based on experience, is that guys who 'punch paper or foam' are also hunters who do damn well in the fields and woods too, and likely are the ones who know how to tune well.
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From: crookedstix
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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Here's a fun historical footnote on tuning: when I spoke with Sherwood Schoch last year, he mentioned that Les "Jugger" Gervais--the first guy to shoot a 300 in competition--always had terrible arrow flight compared to the other top shooters. However, he also had the arm-hand-eye coordination to get away with it!
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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Sometimes the tales get taller after a long time telling. Lester Gervais was a professional archer of much acclaim, and I would think he knew how to tune a bow to perfection. I also know Sherwood Schoch....not that he would fib. Jugger was not the first guy to shoot a 300 in sanctioned competition, but he was one of the first three. Bob Bitner was the first at Las Vegas in 1967. Les shot his the second day. They pretty much set the standard at the time. More followed. The first three were shooting Ernie Root's Golden Eagle with a Phil Grable designed riser. All three used the G.E. but I'm not recalling the third guy right now.
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From: DarrinG
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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I damn well guarantee you I can take a poorly flying arrow and get decent "groups" with them if I shoot them enough to learn their flight characteristics. But, whatever....
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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A more recent photo of Bob Bitner and his old Golden Eagle bow, and the target he shot.
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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Paper tuning is tough for finger shooters,especially after they get stiff. I don't even bother with it any more. I pick a known close combination and go straight to bare shaft-fletch shaft group tuning. Then work out to whatever distance you prefer 20 yards and over. Throw in a little walk back tuning to check things out and that is as good as it gets. Of course you are watching arrow flight all along,incase anything weird pops up.>>>----> Ken
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From: Bowmania
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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I'm not fond of paper tuning, but I do use it for verification.
And when it comes to walk back tuning and tuning for tens, I believe you need a sight. Sight it in a 20 and then go to 30, 40, and shoot with the 20 yard pin.
Last time I looked I couldn't find any pins, much less a twenty yard pin.
Bowmania
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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Todd i used the wrong terminology there. You are right. I was just thinking shooting the line as well as getting the shafts to group together. >>>----> Ken
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From: GF
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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I’m another who tried paper-tuning... Once.
JMO, the best answer to this question is another question...
Let’s just imagine that you had your set-up so well tuned that you could group bare shafts right down the middle with fletched arrows tipped either with FPs or with broadheads all the way out as far as you could shoot a recognizable group. And then you were to shoot through paper 12 feet or 15 feet or whatever distance you think makes sense, and you got a bad-looking tear...
Would you change anything???
For me.... Not on your life!
Now, a bare shaft that left big tear in the paper at 10 yards would probably get my attention, and a fletched arrow that isn’t flying straight at that distance would surely indicate that something has gone awry... that’s reasonable hunting range, so bad flight there would be a bad problem.
But so far, I’m too inexperienced to believe that a bare-shaft tuned set-up could be flying cockeyed at 10 yards and still hit down the middle at 15 or more...
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From: Kwikdraw
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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Well, for me, paper tuning is a must w/ compounds, as arrow flight is very difficult to track w/ the naked eye. I also paper tune my stiks, but unless your stik is approaching over 200' per second, you can pretty much see good or bad arrow flight. The paper tear gives one the direction I need to go to fine tune.
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From: charley
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Date: 09-Mar-18 |
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A guy that can do one can probably do the other too. They are linked at the hip by default.
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