Has anyone used this brand or any other gel for fletching? Thinking about giving it a try on carbons with wraps. All my fletchtite dried up and duco didn’t make the cut.

Agree use it all the time for fletching. JimH

The loc tite gel also works super..

Loc-tite professional works good for me.

I have used the regular gorilla glue for putting feathers on carbons for a couple years. Works great. Just be careful how much you put on because it expans when it dries, took me several times using it to learn how much to use .

Never use anything but super glue for feathers. Brand doesn't seem to matter. It is neater and one heck of alot faster. I suggested this years ago. Oddly every archery supply now carries a super glue. The money folks are much quicker to catch on. Walmart and Hobby Lobby have every glue needed for archery. Without a bow and arrow on the container it is much cheaper.>>>---> Ken

I use the Blue cap posted above. Works very well.

I disagree with everybody about the blue cap. It's way too liquidy. I use the green cap which is the gel. The last a long time. However it will turn white and crusty sometimes. Looks like a white film that appears after it dries. The blue cap we'll just get all over because it's wet.

I use the gel too. It is easier to control than the blue top

I use the gel on carbons, no wraps.

I am just the opposite. Why would u want to use SG for fletch? I use the GSG gel to glue inserts into new arrows.

Use Bohning Fletch glue for fletch.

you have to shake up the blue cap before each use....goes from loose liquid to gel.....works great.....

Any of you "youngsters" know how long this stuff has been around? We used to get it in our shop by the pint bottles full to glue the seat pad velcro straps in the F-111 fighters. That was back in 1972.

If you wanted to play a nasty trick on your "buddy" you could squirt a few drops into the padlock on his locker. Bolt cutter time.

I am not a fan of the gel types, but do love the blue cap.

I use Lok tite Ultra gel. I remove the tube from the plastic cover which allows me to use the glue easier and get the most out of the tube.

I use the gel it’s $1.00 for two small tubes at dollar general and takes four tubes for 36 fletching works great on carbons with one stringer wraps

The best tip I have for the blue tip stuff is - It don't take much.

Just a thin line is all you need. It will spread evenly when you clamp it down.

Rick

Store it cap down.

I use the Loctite Brush on Super Glue, I can get a much more uniform bead on the feather so I don't miss a spot, or get too much on it that it oozes out.

I had a tube of the gel on hand. Fletching some up now and it seems ok. Will try the blue cap on next batch. Thanks fellas.

[[[ "Store it cap down." ]]]

Yep, and in the refrigerator if you can. Keeping it refrigerated keeps it from going bad on the shelf after it's been opened.

Rick

I use the blue cap Gorilla Super Glue to put field points on my arrows sometimes. First arrow I tried it on I let it dry five minutes ( even though it dries in seconds ) and shot the arrow into a dense Buck Commander target bag twenty times and the field point didn't come off. Also shot the arrow at a 3D target and the point stayed on. Then I wanted to see how hard it would be to get the field point off so I heated the field point with a bic lighter and the field point pulled right off. I take a bottle and a couple field points with me to 3D shoots when I go in case I loose a field point in a 3D target. I can put another field point on in seconds. I never tried it on fletching. I'll have to give that a try. The blue cap Gorilla Super Glue is good stuff.

These glues need moisture to set up. If you live where it’s very humid store in refrigerator as mentioned. If you live in dry climes it helps to exhale your breath on it to help set it up faster. Blow that humid hot air lol

Thin glue in large bottles with needle spout. Tiny amount. No squeeze out,no mess,clear,and did I say fast. Feathers only, much better glues for nocks and points. >>>----> Ken

Ken,

So far no problems holding the points on with it. I haven't had any come off yet. And I've shot the arrows I used it on many times at bag targets, 3d targets, and and a few times at stumps. Also a friend of mine who owns a bow shop near me has been using it for at least a year and he has not had one complaint. I use and like epoxy also but epoxy takes longer before you can shoot the arrow. I never cared for hot melt sticks.

Kodiaktd You are right no problem holding them on. I change points often shooting arrows in different bows---tuning-- going back and cutting arrows shorter. Hot melt works much better for me. If you don't do these things or you are selling arrows permanent glue is great. If you are set up and organized hot melt works plenty fast. Take care. >>>----> Ken

Ken, I do them things also. And have been doing it for a long time. Take care also.

Super glue jell is all I ever use for fletching on carbon shafts these days. As others have said, just be sure you don't use too much.

Blue cap-- all i use-- all i will ever use. Goes on slick and feathers don't come off. Did i say its the best?!

It's all I used to use, buy the small tubes versus the bottle, that way you don't have a big bottle of it sitting around going bad, it's one of the better super glue for inserts.

Kodiaktd, I'm always eager to learn something new. Are points easy to change using super glue or epoxy. Just this evening I had an arrow snap off right behind the point. In the past I would have had to drill it out or toss the point. What is your method of switching out points. Thanks. >>>----> Ken

Ken, Yes they're easy to change. On your arrow that broke just screw a screw into the wood ( I'm guessing your arrow is wood ) that is still in the point, heat the point up good and the wood should pull out. The Gorilla Super Glue and epoxy you just have to heat up the point with a bic lighter and the points will pull right off. When I put a point on I cover the whole taper with the Gorilla Super Glue or epoxy. The Gorilla Super Glue leaves less residue when you remove a point, and dries fast,the epoxy leaves more residue when you remove a point and takes much longer to dry. One way I clean out the residue after removing a point when using epoxy is to put a brass or steel firearm bore brush the approx size of the field point on a piece of aluminum arrow shaft and put it in a electric drill.

When my friend that owns the bow shop told be about using the Gorilla Super Glue I was skeptical also but I figured what the heck I'll give it a try. A small bottle isn't very expensive. I use the blue cap gorilla super glue. The package says it dries in 10 seconds ( I give it a little longer ) and Impact tough.

Best thing I have found to get a broken arrow's wood ( when it's broke off flush with the point ) out of a point is a muzzleloader ball puller ( it's a screw that attaches to a ramrod ), then get a T-Handled pistol cleaning rod. Screw the muzzleloader ball puller in the T-Handle pistol cleaning rod and screw it into the wood in the point. Heat up the field point with a bic lighter grasp the point with pliers and pull. Then you can screw a firearms bore brush the approx size of the field point on the T- Handle pistol cleaning rod and clean the glue residue out of the point. Of course using a electric drill with the bore bush is easier. This method works most of the time with me.

does it work on aluminum. vanes anf fletches?

Pssst. Don't tell anyone, but I prefer GSG and it's rubberized polymers to ANY other glue (including 420) where any flexing of the glue connection is expected. Yes, that's limb delamination fixes and such.

Rick

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